John McM

Well and truly rips my undies. I will lose a morning of my precious leave sorting this out. They haven't given me back my instruction sheet, but even then the front right camber is way off, as documented so there's no way I can do the 11th track afternoon without sorting it.

Macca

Good news is RS camber is not as aggressive as LS but HD is a clockwise track so it will make little difference. However if sheet is true RH/LH castor is at acceptable limit (30' less RH side). Thats probably more likely to upset handling though it may be difficult to feel.

John McM

True, Cross camber is stated as - 0.19' which isn't really any worse than before. Still doesn't explain the rears. Not sure how difference front rear camber balance will make but I don't want any issues with insurance.

Macca

Its probably fine. But its really annoying it wasnt done as you asked. That kind of thing really ticks me off. Only suggestion I can make is call them first and ask the operator the reason. Just in case there is a something that was preventing the adjustment. Cant see why that would be tho. Might save a second trip etc.

John McM

I will ring to find out first. Lots to do at the moment.

To accentuate the positive, the ride, controls and gear shift are is must have been what a showroom new 964 felt like.

996tnz

John, just a heads up. The difference in front camber (and probably caster too) will be deliberate. As the car is not a dedicated track car, it is normal to set it up so camber and caster thrust combined compensate for the the crown in the road so she tracks straight on a straight section (but sloping away to the left edge) road. If they set both camber and caster identically on both sides she'd always be pulling left on NZ's left drive roads. Usually just done through differential camber alone though.

Bear in mind too that their print out is in degrees-minutes rather than degrees-decimals so the front camber and caster differences are less than they might first appear.

As for the front-rear camber difference, I can't speak for 964s but yes, on the 996 platform I believe it more common to have about half a degree less in the rear than the front for mixed use cars.

If you gave them full specs for all four corners they should have worked to those though or at least called you to discuss first...

John McM

Thanks Walter, I will ring and find out what they've done and why.

pcarplayer

Macca. I see the 993 is in at OCD. Shame we couldn't find a space earlier in the year. Those boys should do a good job. Last time I was in there we spent an hour geeking out on detailing stuff

Are you keeping the bra? Paint chips being sorted? Sounds like you are finishing up with a sealant and wax rather than a nano-sealant?

Macca

Hi mate.

Yeah it's a shame the planets couldn't align Warwick as I would rather have had your help. I have the storage space but no power there and no space to work etc.

I pulled the plastic off last week (yellow with age) and am having the chips touched up and the car polished so there is some semblance of uniformity. It was supposed to be for the Festival to make the car presentable but a mate has hired Taupo for the day so it will be heading down there when finished for a day on the track 14 then qualifying 15 and the trials on 16 & 17. It may also be on the track on 11 so plenty of opportunity for stone chips to start covering that bare metal and evening up the patina.

The plastic is an utter waste of time. Since I pulled it off everyone has commented on the quality of the clear bra (which isn't there!).

In NZ they don't seem to pull the panels off to wrap with the clear stuff. This they run short of the crease and subsequently stone chips all along the leading edge of panels regardless of plastic. nZ UV is harshest in world and you won't get more than 5 years (Max if you garage) before a good film starts yellowing then going soft and scratching and staining with bug splat etc if you have a car park bump and need the bumper done you now add $900 and have a difference shine surface.

To top it all off you never take the plastic off so live for life with a sub standard surface. iF you ever take the plastic off it looks silly like my car now and still has chips on leading edge.

For me it's a fail on every level.

If you don't want stone chips in your paint then there is only one good answer.....don't drive your car!on NZ roads. Our roads are very narrow, have loose chip seal and small run off and are amongst the dirtiest surface in the G20 I have run on...

rant over :-)

Macca

Walter. Minutes are more than decimals so differences are greater than they would appear? I.e. 30' is half a degree so castor is out once side by over half a degree which means wheel base on that side of car is shorter/longer than other side of car??

Macca

Nano sealant? Is that the really expensive stuff like C Quartz they put on?

I am avoiding that. It's an old car with very dark metallic paint (which needs re doing) so doesn't warrant it IMO. I think it is a good idea on a brand new car used for daily driving to be done before delivery.

15 Years ago I had the first gen of sealant products applied to the 993. I went to the beach for Xmas and the salt with rain left marks over the entire car. They were like white rings everywhere. The prognosis was the product had a chemical reaction and was amplified by dark metallic with clear coat. It took the installer a lot of work to buff it all off and in doing so they knocked the hood and roof paint back to under 100 micron. That was one of the issues that predicated a re spray a few years later.

I'm sure the modern stuff works. But they already invented protection for the steel panels. It's harder and more durable than any plastic and sealant. They call it PAINT :-)

John McM

AGREE. Barely 50km since the refurb and my carbon fibre splitters are getting some great driveway rash scratches, albeit you won't see them unless you have the car on a hoist. In any case the degradation has started and I'm happy to let it continue, including the inevitable paint chips and windscreen hits. The cost of a bonnet respray is probably cheaper than all of the protection options anyway.

Macca

I spent Sunday morning with a mate, Stefan the owner of Haslers, at his shop (empty as not back in business till 11 Jan). Was fun going over the jobs in situ including the ex uniblack 993 C4S of Andrews from HW which was there for a cut and polish. We discussed the cost of giving a 993 front hood repaint and blended front fenders plus dropping the front bumper for a respray and the total job is under $2800. There is very not too much prep needed for hood and fenders and its easier if its flat colour.

IIRC Paul paid almost that for the plastic on his 911. That did include a few pieces of coverage at the rear (quarter panel and behind the wheel).

I have grown to really like the stone chip Patina on the front of the car. No one looks at that car and has any doubts its been working for a living. My only regret is i didn't pull the plastic off sooner so the patina was even! Now it looks a bit odd which is why Im trying to get it back closer t even with some of the bigger chips filled and a big machine polish. I need a 5 day Targa Tour to even up the rash!

John McM

I will run the 11th as is, on roadies. If it misbehaves in any way (set up related), then it's back to CCS to sort it before the Festival.

Speaking of the Festival, what are people planning for logistics e.g. shade/shelter?

Macca

John. Good idea. Ive run with worse. You will be fine. Why not run your Z221 on 11 and use your roadies for 15-17? I mean, Lola will only cover your with tyre marbles on her 221s on 11 surely?