996tnz

Am looking forward to seeing you both out there.

In case anyone else is mulling this over, it's always better to check with an AIM or similar dedicated tool but if just looking to get a good idea of your lap times, then phone apps like Harry's Lap Timer or RaceChrono will give a fair indication. Any timing display needs to be covered or mounted so as to not show timing to the driver while out on track to satisfy insurance requirements of course, if you're running insured.

And/or just video your laps and work out the lap times by seeing when you pass a known point on a fairly consistent line. The faster and straighter you're travelling the better the accuracy of that so before getting my AIM (or being kindly loaned one sometimes) I tended to use the pit entry wall area as a reference if the camera wasn't picking up the start-finish nicely.

pcarplayer

The $2k was just to straighten the frunk floor (which isn't really bent and unnecessary IMO), cleanup the surface rust and refinish. No welding. Just a bit of hammering, rust conveter and paint - which remember is just in the frunk. I would still have to supply the ABS brackets and CCS would take car of removing and refitting the hydraulics on top of the Haslers quote. All in I'm guessing nearer 3k when you include a replacement of the brake fluid, supplying the parts and transporting the car between CCS and Haslers.

As I said I'm going elsewhere after the festival. Hi John K

racoguy

That's unbelievable Warwick..........more than happy to be involved.

RS ZWEI

Is this Porsche Tax, Auckland Tax or a bit of both?

John McM

Just the free market at work, I suspect. I get work done outside Auckland and don't perceive a regional discount.

Warwick will be expecting a finish commensurate to the car quality and that will cost.

However as I found with John (Racoguy) and Profile, the well known shops are not the only businesses in town who can achieve the quality enthusiasts want.

mikey_audiogeek

Pretty sure they're 10mm bolts - but don't take my word for it!

No need to heat treat the rod. My eyeball calipers say 5/8" hex?

http://www.easysteel.co.nz/site_file...lbook.pdf?dl=1

- look at page 19.

Cheers,
Mike

Maxem

I admit To not being an expert on such things but the moderate level of knowledge that we all Have with greasy bits and body works is enough to detect the **** being taken.

Macca

The reality is I suspect Stefan didnt want the work. These marque accredited/aligned body shops are ding volume business for the insurers. If its a Merc/RR/Lambo/Porsche and it gets damaged then they are one of two in Auckland to do the work etc. Their business model doesnt support tricky jobs that can have unknown time required and take up valuable space etc. Im nt putting words in their mouth but suggest if the job looked too small and fiddly they may have priced it out of market so as not to have the work (or if they did make a good margin). Same is happening in the building space right now just ask Paul or any tradie. For this reason these shops dont suit budget enthusiasts or those needing full restos on old cars.

John McM

Makes sense, although why not just say it the way it is and have a selection of other shops to refer the person to?

Pel

Did any regulatory/sprint guys request a marque?

John McM

Not that I know of. I didn't.

I've been working through options for both shade and in car cooling. It could be as simple as a throw away gazebo next to the car.

For those that haven't done this before. Long days in the sun will fry you very quickly. Shade is at a premium.

Pel

My thoughts exactly

John McM

A smart idea is to get a group of 5 or 6 together and arrange a communal shade space. Maybe a 6x3 gazebo. Then a few Chairs, chilly bin, tools etc.

Pel

Sounds good, I'm gonna tow my car down so can transport gear. Paul is there going to be space for this near our cars? Sorry to be a pain..

gt38088

Agree. I am happy to contribute to any costs to share shade if something larger can be organized.