Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
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Amazing work John, you must be very satisfied. What happened about the alternator issue? Daniel from EP was full of admiration for what you'd taken on and achieved. He said there's no way he would have attempted what you've done in a home garage, and he obviously knows the cars pretty well.
The reality in my thinking is that anything is doable if you have time, resources and take away the fear of failure. I would make a poor mechanic as when I learn how to do something I lose interest in repeating it.
As an aside, I've become more interested in genealogy recently and by chance my wife showed me this today. Purchas is my 3rd great grandfather on the maternal side. Based on this article I'd have loved to meet the old man. Polymath is the word for 2016.
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Btw the alternator issue seems to have gone away with a rearranging of washers and shims. I have new bearings I will install at some stage. What I really want now is a second car. Where are the 964 coupes for sale? There were heaps a few years ago
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I like your strategy John , if you find one too many , let me know .
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WOF and alignment tomorrow.
I found my original alignment spec with Peter Adler. Comparing it with the Porsche specs it really isn't that radical, just lots of camber.
Given the issue (perceived or real) I'm thinking of backing the car off to RS specs. At least then I can say that it's a Porsche legal road spec. I'm interested to know what other 964 owners have chosen for alignments.
I found my original alignment spec with Peter Adler. Comparing it with the Porsche specs it really isn't that radical, just lots of camber.
Given the issue (perceived or real) I'm thinking of backing the car off to RS specs. At least then I can say that it's a Porsche legal road spec. I'm interested to know what other 964 owners have chosen for alignments.
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John I think your plan is a good one. RS specs are fairly conservative but give you a great base to work from. Despite common belief factory RS/GR3 specs suit the car well for mixed road/track use with minimum compromise at the type of pace we are running on track. A good driver will be no slower with them if correct temps are used to manage roll over etc. wild camber favours improved tyre wear when really pushing on but comes at the expense of less straight line braking grip, twitchy road manners and increased inside wear in Tarmac. I had my GT3 set up with more aggressive settings when I landed it and reverted to factory settings before NITT and find the settings at least as good on track and better on road....
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Originally Posted by nmaisey
John, what I'm running:
Not sure how to rotate it sorry, posting from my iPhone
Not sure how to rotate it sorry, posting from my iPhone
Are you looking to dial in your ride height too John? Corner balance? I was very happy with the setups I did on Warwick and Logan's 964's.
Cheers
It looks like whoever did this alignment did not care to re-sweep and verify castor after adjusting front camber. It is the same before and after. Probably not a big deal as it most likely evened out due to the amount camber split that was present left to right at the start. A little lazy in my opinion... Documentation is important with this stuff!
Are you looking to dial in your ride height too John? Corner balance? I was very happy with the setups I did on Warwick and Logan's 964's.
Cheers
Are you looking to dial in your ride height too John? Corner balance? I was very happy with the setups I did on Warwick and Logan's 964's.
Cheers
I can say it's pretty aggressive for street driving. I love it on the track though
I remember him saying that the right front castor is actually in spec he just couldn't get the printout. This printout was the one prior to the final castor adjustment JD. So I can't tell you exact castor but only that it's within RS spec
I can say it's pretty aggressive for street driving. I love it on the track though
I can say it's pretty aggressive for street driving. I love it on the track though
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John. If you are creating a quick and dirty reference geo suggest having it done with 100kg simulated drivers weight weight in the seat.
Nathan you still have plenty of front toe in. Ive just had the 993 set up again zero toe again for 3 track days Taupo & HD over next few weeks and on the Z221 its noticeable on the street but with the road tyres on is not an issue.
Jeff. Have you seen these? 993/64 RS F+R 50 degrees of rotation, sealed. Almost vital for easy corner weight balancing I should think?
Anyone interested in a group discount and shipping let me know. Not cheap at $800 NZD landed the F+R set but if you have RS height, ARB and coilovers these are the part of the equation along with monoballs and camber plates, heim jointed A arms etc.
Nathan you still have plenty of front toe in. Ive just had the 993 set up again zero toe again for 3 track days Taupo & HD over next few weeks and on the Z221 its noticeable on the street but with the road tyres on is not an issue.
Jeff. Have you seen these? 993/64 RS F+R 50 degrees of rotation, sealed. Almost vital for easy corner weight balancing I should think?
Anyone interested in a group discount and shipping let me know. Not cheap at $800 NZD landed the F+R set but if you have RS height, ARB and coilovers these are the part of the equation along with monoballs and camber plates, heim jointed A arms etc.
I would be a complete liar if I told you that I have never done the same thing. But it was usually on a Cayenne or some quick set the toe and go alignment. After my 4 year stint working on a professional race team under a very meticulous race engineer, I quickly learned to dot my i's and cross my t's when it came to chassis setup and race car prep as a whole.
John. If you are creating a quick and dirty reference geo suggest having it done with 100kg simulated drivers weight weight in the seat.
Nathan you still have plenty of front toe in. Ive just had the 993 set up again zero toe again for 3 track days Taupo & HD over next few weeks and on the Z221 its noticeable on the street but with the road tyres on is not an issue.
Jeff. Have you seen these? 993/64 RS F+R 50 degrees of rotation, sealed. Almost vital for easy corner weight balancing I should think?
Anyone interested in a group discount and shipping let me know. Not cheap at $800 NZD landed the F+R set but if you have RS height, ARB and coilovers these are the part of the equation along with monoballs and camber plates, heim jointed A arms etc.
Nathan you still have plenty of front toe in. Ive just had the 993 set up again zero toe again for 3 track days Taupo & HD over next few weeks and on the Z221 its noticeable on the street but with the road tyres on is not an issue.
Jeff. Have you seen these? 993/64 RS F+R 50 degrees of rotation, sealed. Almost vital for easy corner weight balancing I should think?
Anyone interested in a group discount and shipping let me know. Not cheap at $800 NZD landed the F+R set but if you have RS height, ARB and coilovers these are the part of the equation along with monoballs and camber plates, heim jointed A arms etc.