gt38088

That's gonna be a great looker. Black wheels? I will have to come over and visit, peek in the garage next time I am up visiting family.

gt38088

Toe is really the secret sauce part of the geo. Different from car to car too - I mean more sensitive on rear engine and older cars than modern.
So set up target is going to be a function of car as well and what you like.

I find the real race teams are very quiet on this if they are talking older car set up whereas info much easier to get for modern cars. and the two should not be treated as comparable.

Now that I have been to Sweden and know them better I may try (again) to get info from them - bit hard before....but I know they were testing a lot of different theories with former WRC engineers.

nzskater

I've put my hand up, no one has taken the opportunity to buy me one yet

If you're ever stuck deciding which of your fleet to take out for a weekend run let us know, I'm sure a few of us can fly down and help take them all out at once!

Great colour choice. Interested to see how the RS feels on NZ roads (assuming it's not just for track duties).

John McM

We're at the longer tooth end of the Cayenne market but if they've moved on appreciably from their efforts in 2005 then it must be an incredible wagon.

We have done close to 5,000km in less than 3 months in our 2005 S and it has proven to be exactly what we wanted: effortless long distance transport in absolute comfort, even when towing a 2k cup car. We don't use it for around town driving much, where its bulk and petrol consumption count against it but that expected from the outset.

gt38088

one more thing, I think its also about the relative difference between F/R settings eg front could be 0-2ml out vs rear 1-3.5or even 4 IN.

Moochier

Yeah I've found it hard to find any specific alignment info for either my RS4 or Cayman. Everyone keeps it quite close to their chest.

There is a lot of general theory stuff out there like this good article, worth a read http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html but not really any real life specific data, well from anyone you'd really trust anyway.

I like the statement in the link 'The best way to determine the proper camber for competition is to measure the temperature profile across the tire tread immediately after completing some hot laps.'

But then to know what to adjust if you weren't getting the right heat profile, toe or camber is still a mystery...
I guess it's why there's little info out there... Because the people that 'get it' become desirable/valuable.

For some strange reason I do find alignment theory interesting...

mjharrisonnz

Def black wheels - and a green cage.

My P1 and CGT will be on display next weekend at Turners In Penrose along with a F40, F50, Enzo and Ferrai Daytona if anyone is interested in seeing a few cars.

Should be quite a cool collection to have together and a good opportunity to purchase a new car at Turners :-)

gt38088

depending on whether you have adjustable bars or not it will be iterative as all things one change impacts the other things. get a baseline geo then play wit bars - I found last outing at Taupo just a rear bar adjustment made a big difference. then once that's is ok try little adjustments to geo - camber first based on temps across the tyre then toe - more rear toe in to get better turn in

kiwi 911

Matt, can you tell us more. Why are Turners having the display - do they have a classic car auction coming up?

P.s. Is you mate driving the F40 up on his 'work license-?? - ha ha hee hee.

mjharrisonnz

Charity auction here lads

http://www.trademe.co.nz/travel-events-activities/activities/auction-858268784.htm

Check the TNR website for more info.

racoguy

Another 964 is closer to going back on the road, scraping off old underseal tomorow to prepare the battery plate to go back in.
The old sealer is horrible, bit like chewing gum and a real pain to get off.
A sharp chisel seems to work best but not much fun, sure glad I bought a nice hoist to work on
Once it is back from the chassis measure I'll have to take the ABS pump out to be able to get at every nook to seal and paint the area.
I'll also take a look at the front suspension tomorow as one wheel is further back than the other but I know the chassis is straight as i've already measured that which is spot on front to back and X ways.
Will have to take a look at the front arms and uprights to see what is going on.

Away in OZ for a week so ideal time to pass on to body shop for measure and priming of repaired areas, the owner will probably roll it in primer for a few months as he's pretty keen to drive it and then we'll do a glass out respray in winter.

John McM

Nice work John. Not sure about defiling a 964 by running around in primer but it should be solid and is certainly back on the road quickly.

Is the owner interested in the track?

racoguy

The owner also has a 240Z he's restoring with an RB26DET, have kind of talked him in to building that a bit more track focused.
I think the 964 will just become a family toy to enjoy, makes sense really to do full respray as too many panels require touch ups once repaired and as with any old car paint becomes a bit of a let down.

John McM

What do you expect the respray to cost?

shiraz

have a look at a 904 - bit above my income level tho.

http://www.symbolicintl.com/1965-por...rrera-gts.html