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How easily is the camera removed from the included adhesive mount? Like... once installed, can you pop it off at the end of the track day and put it back in next time or is it pretty much there permanently from that point?
How easily is the camera removed from the included adhesive mount? Like... once installed, can you pop it off at the end of the track day and put it back in next time or is it pretty much there permanently from that point?
the instructions don't make it look easily removed...
The stick on camera bases (two are included in each Catalyst kit) stay with the car on the windshield. They are about as big as a nickel with a small bulb that presses into a friction mount on the camera. You can pull the mounts off the windshield (a single edge razor blade makes it easy, then use 3M red double sided tape to restick them after cleaning the old tape residue off.
While you can pull the camera off the mount to remove it from the car, most are leaving the camera there and pulling the large suction cup mount with the mag base, the tablet and the power cord (if it plugs into the cig lighter port). The camera is very small and unobtrusive, and the cabling is easily secured with the stick on loom holders around the periphery of the windshield.
I offer an “instructor kit” which adds a small suction cup mount FOR THE CAMERA, about $15. I lash the excess cabling to the main unit suction cup arm and just let it drip down directly from the camera. Mounts and is calibrated in less than 60 seconds, ALL of it removed in less than that.
I had my Garmin Catalyst installed yeaterday. I am too lazy to do it. I did personalize the Catalyst: That was my contribution. I am lucky to have a very knowladgable AiM/APEX Pro/MOTEC/V BOX dealer within 10 miles of my home, David Ferguson from Veracity Racing Data. He did it in a little over 1/2 an hour...tucked the camera cable away nice and nealtly, and used the suction cup mount I got from Peter Krause to install the camera. Note the easy access to the 12 V power provided by the USB port in the glove box.
You will also note I have the Garmin Catalyst moved enough to the right, for a better field of vision, and to allow me to mount my APEX Pro on the centerline of the car. Based on feedback on the Garmin Users FB page, I plan to move the Garmin lower to maximize my view.
I am off to Willow Springs for the weekend, 10/10 and 10/11, a track where I would realy like to see some incremental improvement, capitalize on those Catalyst defined "opportunities". Before goiing I will watch the classic Jack Olsen's Willow Springs instructional Video to be certain I am driving the best possible line, and then improve against that line. Peter Krause and Ross Bentley have not yet done a Virtual Track Walk of Willow Springs Raceway.....if they offered one, I'd buy it. I do have their Virtual Track Walk of Laguna Seca, very helpful.
View from the driver's seat. Note, from left to right, SOLO 2 DL, APEX Pro mount and the Garmin Catalyst, and the SmartyCam HD in the rear view mirrow. Looking outside in to the suction cup Catalyst camera mount.
They are about as big as a nickel with a small bulb that presses into a friction mount on the camera.
Thanks for this. That little ball/socket friction mount is really key to my question. It doesn't sound like it's meant to be popped out and pushed back in regularly and if it were to loosen over time I expect that would be a minor disaster.
I was thinking that if I mounted behind the mirror blocking the sensor that if I just remove it between track days and left the little mount base in place it would be fine. Sounds like that's asking for trouble though. I'm probably putting way too much thought into this. When I have it in front of me I'll figure something out. It's a small hassle, but I CAN move my dash cam over a bit to make room.
Thanks for this. That little ball/socket friction mount is really key to my question. It doesn't sound like it's meant to be popped out and pushed back in regularly and if it were to loosen over time I expect that would be a minor disaster.
I was thinking that if I mounted behind the mirror blocking the sensor that if I just remove it between track days and left the little mount base in place it would be fine. Sounds like that's asking for trouble though. I'm probably putting way too much thought into this. When I have it in front of me I'll figure something out. It's a small hassle, but I CAN move my dash cam over a bit to make room.
I have the camera on one of Peter's suction cups (after the mess that the ApexPro left on my dash I dont use anything that is "sticky") you can't see the camera behind the mirror - and you can tuck the wiring into the windshield surround and pop the extra into the glovebox ... job done
For those of us who are actual racers, driving a super-loud racecar with no windows, either up or down, wearing helmets running blowers, I wonder how well the audio works? Will the audio port directly into an audio-enabled Stilo, for example, or is it necessary to do a bunch of Rube Goldberg bluetoothy ear-bud adaptations?
I am a PCA racer and use earbuds w/a bluetooth device and it's more than loud enough. I also use a radio plugged into integral earphones in the helmet to communicate with other drivers/spotter... multi-modal....no problem!
I’m leaning towards this because I don’t yet have another data system to tell me how I’m doing but I am thinking there are probably 1.5-2 seconds that I’m missing at the moment. If I amortize the unit cost against time gained I’m not sure there are too many things I could buy for my car that would give me a 1 second reduction in lap time for $500...
I typically can run a whole session consistently within a second for every lap So I’m curious about how much time there is to be gained and if it would benefit me more by trying different lines in places like 3-4-5, 14-15-16, and 17. Time will tell...
Here's a Catalyst video of an optimal lap with overlays. No data files are available for optimal laps, so instead I used a method that can record the screen for up to 3 minutes at a time (but cannot record audio, which optimal laps lack anyway).
I’ll be there 11/21-22 and 12/11-13, so if I buy one before then *cough* Black Friday sale *cough* I’ll definitely post my thoughts here.
Glad to help with the Catalyst. Can't help with the cough...
__________________ -Peter Krause www.peterkrause.net www.gofasternow.com
"Combining the Art and Science of Driving Fast!"
Specializing in Professional, Private Driver Performance Evaluation and Optimization
Consultation Available Remotely and at VIRginia International Raceway
Dumb question time. Racecar doesn't have a lighter or USB port. I can wire one eventually but not before my next event. Can I power the catalyst with a remote battery, like the kind used to charge cellphone?
Dumb question time. Racecar doesn't have a lighter or USB port. I can wire one eventually but not before my next event. Can I power the catalyst with a remote battery, like the kind used to charge cellphone?
You don't need to. The Catalyst kit comes ALSO with a 12V>5V hard wire power transformer. Use that.
10-07-2020, 12:47 PM
