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My rear shocks leaked ... don't know exact mileage they started, but car was bouncy at high speeds and I discovered the leaks at 94K miles. Bouncy is not quite correct... depending on the highway undulations, the car was swaying so I would put it in Sport mode to stabilize. I figured something was wrong as I didn't like Sport mode much for typical highway cruising. I still have my original springs... I don't know how to diagnose a bad spring.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Well that's a good reference. At 167K miles I can't think of another poster here with higher mileage. Any costly repairs so far other than wear and tear items like clutch (I think yours is a manual) brakes and such? Btw....I don't know how to diagnose a bad spring either. Best guess would be that they soften up and bottom out in a way they didn't used to.
Bruce off roads his 997 in order to get some good bird pictures, while carrying two passenger weights of Doritos ... So I would expect his shocks would wear out sooner.
My 2010 C4S PDK with 136K miles is still showing no signs of leakage on the OEM units. The rears did feel soft to me but it took some time for me to adjust from mid engine to rear engine dynamics. In other words, I suspect they were always soft and it simply required some time for me to accept it. That being said, a quick adjustment in the DSC rear shock calibration table brought them to my liking. Better than new and I'm still waiting to see how long they last.
Originally Posted by Iceter
Most shocks don’t ever leak, even when they are completely worn out. Leaking shocks are always bad, but bad shocks rarely leak.
Most shocks are also done by 100k miles. They go bad so gradually that most people don’t realize it until the ride gets horrible or they drive a car with new shocks and remember how things used to be. So I would bet you would feel a noticeable improvement in your ride and handling at 136k miles if you replaced your original shocks.
Wayne and Iceter......any of you have thoughts or opinions on how lowering springs like H&R, Eibach or Techart affect the lifetime of struts and shocks? I've heard different opinions on this. Some say they put more stress on both the struts and shocks without explaining why. Others think just the opposite. That the stiffer lowering springs put less stress on both struts and shocks.
Most shocks don’t ever leak, even when they are completely worn out. Leaking shocks are always bad, but bad shocks rarely leak.
Most shocks are also done by 100k miles. They go bad so gradually that most people don’t realize it until the ride gets horrible or they drive a car with new shocks and remember how things used to be. So I would bet you would feel a noticeable improvement in your ride and handling at 136k miles if you replaced your original shocks.
I suspect (know) you're right. When I turned wrenches to put food on the table shocks were replaced every 40K miles. With or without leaking they lost their stiffness. It's not like things have changed that much.
But the DSC recalibration brought things back pretty sweetly. In fact between motor mounts and the revised DSC settings mine is tighter and it is handling better than it has since my acquisition 100K miles ago. I can't compare to when it was new. However, I'm pleased.
That being said, skepticism is why I did my first DSC table changes for max firmness throughout ... Just to verify I could get the suspension to too stiff. I'll admit I was surprised when the test proved the shocks were still viable. Then it was simply a matter of dialing back the stiffness. And declaring that there was more life within.
YMMV of course.
I'm not driving much in 2020 so not feeling like spending for B16s (yet). But at this point I also don't feel the need. All things in time. Heftier sway bars are first.
Wayne and Iceter......any of you have thoughts or opinions on how lowering springs like H&R, Eibach or Techart affect the lifetime of struts and shocks? I've heard different opinions on this. Some say they put more stress on both the struts and shocks without explaining why. Others think just the opposite. That the stiffer lowering springs put less stress on both struts and shocks.
I'll confess, that's beyond my pay grade!!!!
But if you view the shock as needing to absorb a specific amount of energy across the travel of the suspension, and you shorten that path then the shock would need to be stiffer to absorb that energy in a shorter distance (and time) in order to avoid hitting the bump stops.
But that's assuming no spring rate change. Stiffer springs would compensate. But that's during compression. Stiffer springs would put more stress on the shocks during the rebound.
But beyond valve and fluid wear (viscosity break down) you have seals. Reducing travel reduces the distance the shaft travels across the seal and I would expect that to decrease wear and extend life.
Last edited by Wayne Smith; 12-27-2020 at 04:46 AM.
You are assuming the lowering springs actually have a stiffer rate, which I do not think is true at least with the Eibachs I installed. I do not feel a stiffer ride from stock, so they must compensate with the rate given the spring is actually shorter. Just my hypothesis, but then again its only about 3/4-1 inch shorter (I think) so may not really be noticeable (?). I replaced the bump stops and strut mounts when I did the changeover to Eibachs, btw, as well.
Bought a multifunction Alcantara steering wheel from a fellow RLer (thanks again Bruno) and got it installed and coded. I have a steering angle calibration fault and PSM fault after the install but I’ll deal with that when the car comes out of hibernation. Really like using the wheel controls as opposed to the PCM touchscreen.
Not much......went to lunch yesterday with a friend that got a 992 for Christmas....Sorry.....burn me.....but the car from the inside
is just simply out of touch with it’s roots. The ride was quiet and uninspired. So, I came home, bathed mine, gave it a hug and just
felt blessed. Happy New Year to all.
But if you view the shock as needing to absorb a specific amount of energy across the travel of the suspension, and you shorten that path then the shock would need to be stiffer to absorb that energy in a shorter distance (and time) in order to avoid hitting the bump stops.
But that's assuming no spring rate change. Stiffer springs would compensate. But that's during compression. Stiffer springs would put more stress on the shocks during the rebound.
But beyond valve and fluid wear (viscosity break down) you have seals. Reducing travel reduces the distance the shaft travels across the seal and I would expect that to decrease wear and extend life.
Above my pay grade too with all the variables. All you say makes sense but I'm not sure I can draw a definite conclusion from it.
Originally Posted by Sporty
You are assuming the lowering springs actually have a stiffer rate, which I do not think is true at least with the Eibachs I installed. I do not feel a stiffer ride from stock, so they must compensate with the rate given the spring is actually shorter. Just my hypothesis, but then again its only about 3/4-1 inch shorter (I think) so may not really be noticeable (?). I replaced the bump stops and strut mounts when I did the changeover to Eibachs, btw, as well.
I agree. I've had H&R springs on the three 997's I've owned and I never felt that the ride was any stiffer than OEM. But reading posts about lowering springs here it's rare to find one that doesn't complain about the "stiff", "harsh" or even "horrible" ride they produce. Seems to be the consensus but like I said, I disagree with it.
Originally Posted by Iceter
Yeah, my opinion on shock wear with lowering springs would be complete conjecture. I could probably make a guess but it wouldn’t be worth anything.
Sums it up. Some good reasoning and reasonable speculation by several but no hard and fast conclusion. Maybe there isn't one. OEM or after market springs may have no meaningful affect on shock and/or strut life.
Bought a multifunction Alcantara steering wheel from a fellow RLer (thanks again Bruno) and got it installed and coded. I have a steering angle calibration fault and PSM fault after the install but I’ll deal with that when the car comes out of hibernation. Really like using the wheel controls as opposed to the PCM touchscreen.
Before After
She looks great! Glad it found a new home to a fellow Rennlister!
the psm fault should clear itself after driving 10 meters of so.
as for the steering angle calibration - u can likely clear this via the fox well nt530 (you will need this to enable the MF anyways).
Originally Posted by Jaws1
Bought a multifunction Alcantara steering wheel from a fellow RLer (thanks again Bruno) and got it installed and coded. I have a steering angle calibration fault and PSM fault after the install but I’ll deal with that when the car comes out of hibernation. Really like using the wheel controls as opposed to the PCM touchscreen.
the psm fault should clear itself after driving 10 meters of so.
as for the steering angle calibration - u can likely clear this via the fox well nt530 (you will need this to enable the MF anyways).
Used a Foxwell to code the MF. Start the car and turn the wheel 20 degree to the left and right and then drive straight is what I found someone else did to clear the calibration fault. 3 more months until I start the car though. .
12-27-2020, 02:18 AM
