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Does that FF shifter **** fit like the stock one attaching at base to the ring clip that must be turned to unattach from the shift boot?
Not exactly. You remove the stock locking ring and a plastic sleeve washer that holds the leather boot onto the shifter and the FF has a double o-ring setup that holds the boot on. The **** is attached with a couple of hex set screws onto the actual shifter arm.
Easily reversible back to stock. Having been using it for a couple weeks, I would say the only downside of the FF delrin **** is that it's a bit slippery.
I'm probably somewhat of a nutcase fanatic - but here is the process / products that I used:
1. CarPro Iron X (initial cleaner - primarily for the barrels and inside rim)
2) Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner (outside of wheels)
3) Stoner Tar / Bug remover
4) P21S Paintwork Cleanser
5) CarPro Eraser - prep for ceramic (hyper wax in this case - removes any polish residue and promotes adhesion for the wax / sealant)
6) Chemical Guys "Hydroslick"
Tell us , do you ever enjoy going out driving your car ?
I'm probably somewhat of a nutcase fanatic - but here is the process / products that I used:
1. CarPro Iron X (initial cleaner - primarily for the barrels and inside rim)
2) Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner (outside of wheels)
3) Stoner Tar / Bug remover
4) P21S Paintwork Cleanser
5) CarPro Eraser - prep for ceramic (hyper wax in this case - removes any polish residue and promotes adhesion for the wax / sealant)
6) Chemical Guys "Hydroslick"
On the wheels alone?! 6 chemicals/treatments for just the wheels? If so, wow. I just use dish soap and then rinse them off
On the wheels alone?! 6 chemicals/treatments for just the wheels? If so, wow. I just use dish soap and then rinse them off
Thats some commitment to them being clean!
For me it more than just getting them clean. It's cleaning, restoration, and protecting. With all of this done, it will be quite a bit easier to keep them nice.
Completed both of the fronts yesterday...
I installed a retrofit satellite radio via the aux port in the center glove box (2010 C4S) ... Made my own tap-a-fuses, mounted the controller inside the center tower, everything else was straight forward. Should have done this years ago.
Overall the process was easy, just time consuming. My old key was in really bad shape, and I had a spare with blade/transponder, but no buttons/circuit board. So I took the blade, battery terminals and transponder out of the spare key. Took the rubber pad & circuit board from my "good" cracked key. Hardest parts were getting the battery terminals seated properly, and then aligning the rubber pad/circuit board to make good connection with the remote buttons. The transponder was very tedious - I basically ended up cutting off all the key material holding it in, vs. getting through the glue and angling out the transponder. Fortunately the transponder itself seems to be pretty resilient. Nice to have the new look key (I just searched/bought on Amazon, no endorsement on this being an OEM replacement) for only a $20 investment and some patience, vs. spending $200 on the key and another $50-150 on having the dealer program it.
As has happened with many people, it started as a coolant leak and the plan to fix/pin fittings... which means might as well knock out sharkwerks elbows, all the other basic maintenance (plugs/coils/hoses/water pump etc). Since the engine is out, need to pin the cams.
Then black friday deal on AMS Alpha Intercoolers popped up and ECU/TCU tune from Markski. Realized that it's not right to put the stock exhaust back on, so picked up Kline SS exhaust. Intake pipes should be here next week too.
Now I am at a crossroads on whether or not to do injectors (in the event I want to try out E85) and/or 63.5/65mm VTGs.
03-02-2020, 10:45 AM
