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What did you do to your 997 today?

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Old 03-26-2017, 09:56 PM
  #5431  
db997gts
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About 14 hours. Full Decon, Iron x, clay, polish with menzerna 3500, carpro eraser, and powerlock. Trim cleaner, and gyeon on head lights. Could of done more, but enough is enough.
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Old 03-26-2017, 09:58 PM
  #5432  
Petza914
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Originally Posted by db997gts
About 14 hours. Full Decon, Iron x, clay, polish with menzerna 3500, carpro eraser, and powerlock. Trim cleaner, and gyeon on head lights. Could of done more, but enough is enough.
ooooh, nice and shiny. Nothing looks better clean and waxed than black.
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Old 03-27-2017, 01:48 PM
  #5433  
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db997GTS - Nice work! Car looks great! And thanks for the new brands of detailing products; hadn't heard of a few of them! Just what I need more products to try.
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Old 03-27-2017, 02:18 PM
  #5434  
Conan Dombroski
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(strictly speaking, this was yesterday....)

I changed the oil and fixed a rear brake squeal. And if anyone cares about the brake squeal fix, I'll share my methodology if you want.
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Old 03-27-2017, 02:31 PM
  #5435  
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Yes.

I'd like to know.

I have an intermittent one.
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Old 03-27-2017, 02:42 PM
  #5436  
Conan Dombroski
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Originally Posted by 996AE
Yes.

I'd like to know.
For some context: I had a really bad rear brake squeal. Happened anytime I touched the pedal, for as long as I had the pedal pressed. Now, after the fix, they are completely silent.

Here are the steps. I'm assuming you have plenty of pad left to begin with (ie: you aren't down to the backing plates which would be a pretty easy explanation as to why you have brake squeal )
  1. Take the pads out and note which pads are from which side and the direction the rotor takes across the face of each pad. You'll want to make sure you put them back in a place where the leading edge before is now the trailing edge.
  2. Take some 120 - 150 grit sandpaper (I used 150 grit) and sand the faces (front and back) of the rotors. Sand perpendicular to rotation (from outside edge toward center and reverse), not around the face. Just a light sanding, don't dig into the metal too much.
  3. Now lightly sand the face of the pads. Give a slight chamfer to the edges. When I say slight, I mean it really shouldn't be visible, just noticeable by touch, taking off the sharp edges of the pad.
  4. Sand off any corrosion from the pad backing plate
  5. Apply a thin coat of anti-squeal grease (high-temp anti-seize works, too) to the pad backing plate
  6. Put everything back together, remembering to put the pads back so the previous leading edges are now trailing edges.

It took me about 2 hours to do the rears, but I work slowly. Most people can probably do this in under an hour.
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Old 03-27-2017, 07:31 PM
  #5437  
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sounds reasonable

ive been chasing this for a while

low mile car

worth a try

thanks
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Old 03-27-2017, 07:55 PM
  #5438  
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Originally Posted by SoCal C2S
Installed Rennline Carbon Fiber track mats....both sides.
Very nice, that looks great!! I'd be afraid to put my feet on them though
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Old 03-27-2017, 08:07 PM
  #5439  
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Originally Posted by vern1
Very nice, that looks great!! I'd be afraid to put my feet on them though
I have a thick layer of matte clear vinyl over them....should be OK. I did the same with the silver mats and no scratches to the metal.

These are the same ones with a CF weave wrap on them.
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Old 03-28-2017, 01:39 PM
  #5440  
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Re-badge the rear.. and actually 2nd time around. I didn't like the small "911" font from the 991. This is a larger one.

I finally took her out to take some pics of small door decals.





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Old 03-28-2017, 02:00 PM
  #5441  
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Originally Posted by AltVelo
Re-badge the rear.. and actually 2nd time around. I didn't like the small "911" font from the 991. This is a larger one.

I finally took her out to take some pics of small door decals.
Nice! I really like those on the door like that. Looks different, classy and cool.
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Old 03-28-2017, 03:24 PM
  #5442  
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Your frunk is open.....it will cause significant drag.
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Old 03-28-2017, 06:36 PM
  #5443  
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Originally Posted by SoCal C2S
Your frunk is open.....it will cause significant drag.
That will be my next feat.. can't wait!
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Old 03-29-2017, 08:24 AM
  #5444  
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Brought it to the dealer for a 2 year inspection, was persuaded to install the short shifter additionally, brakes need replacement , ok, ok, I go for the OEM parts (originally wanted to do it myself with aftermarket parts).
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Old 03-30-2017, 08:58 PM
  #5445  
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Just got my car back from my Indy. It went in for a water pump/coolant expansion tank replacement. One thing led to another and I got it back with the following:

New water pump/coolant expansion tank
LN Engineering IMS retrofit (I have an '05 Carrera S, so it was for peace of mind)
New RMS
New Sachs OE replacement clutch
AASCO Single Mass Lightweight Flywheel
Numeric Racing Cup Cables
Function First Shift Right Solution

It was a lot of work, but well worth it. My clutch still had life on it, but it was a "while you're in there" upgrade while getting the IMS/RMS done. The shifter cables and Shift Right Solution just made sense to do as well. The car will be solid for a very long time. It sounds healthy, revs quicker, and shifting feels like a precision sniper rifle's bolt action!

Numeric racing was a pleasure to work with and incredibly helpful with all my questions.
Luka at Function First is a class act and was an absolute pleasure to work with.
Both of these products are AMAZING and the quality/fit/finish is second to none. A MUST upgrade for anyone replacing their shifter cables or upgrading their factory SSK (Function First).

Funfzehn Automotive in Orange, CA did all the work and I cannot praise Kenneth enough. I highly recommend them for anyone in SoCal!!
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