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As the mileage builds on the break in period for the tranny, now at 1000 miles, I am finding a lot of solace in driving the back roads up the valley. No need to speed excessively, lots of little bends, elevations changes, and most importantly, no city traffic - is awesome.
I really do enjoy driving this car, the noise it makes, the feelings it imbues, the gears I can change...
...I am finding a lot of solace in driving the back roads up the valley. No need to speed excessively, lots of little bends, elevations changes, and most importantly, no city traffic - is awesome.
I feel the same about my two lane back road drives.
IMO the 996 Turbo doesn't have to be max performed to be enjoyed.
Today I changed the injectors and fuel pump and fuel filter, so
question, do I now have to bleed the fuel system?
And if I do, please someone point me in the right direction 👍
I have that exact same system; I was able to swap it myself, plugged it in, started the car without any further bleeding.
yeah I have had the fuel rails, injectors, pump and filter off, so it's pretty much empty, I have turned the engine quite a bit but nothing I have also cracked open the fuel pipe connection on the fuel cooler as it's easy to access but that's dry.
Should I be able to hear the pump with just the ignition lights on?
Thanks
That is beyond the scope I did... you may in fact need to bleed it, unless the fuel loop will fill, but that is something I am unsure of. One would think that if the return to tank is open, fuel would naturally fill the circuit...
yeah I have had the fuel rails, injectors, pump and filter off, so it's pretty much empty, I have turned the engine quite a bit but nothing I have also cracked open the fuel pipe connection on the fuel cooler as it's easy to access but that's dry.
Should I be able to hear the pump with just the ignition lights on?
Thanks
Grab two 1/4" quick connect female connectors and some 14ga wire. Make two jumper wires about 12" long, each with a 1/4 QC female on one end and bare wire on the other. Unlpug the fuel pump connector on the housing. Plug your jumper wires on to the two larger terminals - these power the fuel pump. The small terminals are for the gas gauge. Touch the jumper wires to the battery terminals, and you should hear the fuel pump running. Mind the polarity of the fuel pump, look at the factory plug. The brown wire is the ground and the green/white is +12V. Hook your jumpers up accordingly.
Thanks for your help guys, I will have a Go at the jump lead method, that will make it 'pump' I guess so as to fill my system 👍
can Durametric switch the fuel pump on/off does anyone know?
Thanks again for your help 👍🇬🇧
Thanks for your help guys, I will have a Go at the jump lead method, that will make it 'pump' I guess so as to fill my system 👍
can Durametric switch the fuel pump on/off does anyone know?
Thanks again for your help 👍🇬🇧
ok, I have sorted it out, anyone changing the fuel pump, make sure you fill the plastic reservoir around the actual pump, otherwise it just sucks air 😂😂my fuel level was just below this, then I did as recommended, and connected a couple of leads directly to 'switch pump on/off' to bleed the system.
I cracked open the fuel cooler connection (picture) and the Schrader valve under the brass blanking nut on the filter. (picture) now I have fuel 👍