When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well i think its time to spill the beans, but first my path to the decision. It started with a lot if research on not only who could build a motor but also how to fix the deficiencies. My goal was to find a motor that would survive a dozen de days and 5k miles of normal driving a year.
So lets start with who could build a motor. After doing my research i contacted a few shops close with in driving range. First was SSI Motorsports in MD, then Autometrics in SC and Musante Motorsports in CT. These shops were recommended by trusted sources. I also considered Chris from CTS but his shop was to far away so i did not was to waste his time and Jake but his time frame doesnt work so he was not contacted either. Pricing ranged from $17-25k for a replacement motor and core. Some shops had more upgrades then others but the labor was about the same. It was basically a, u get what u pay for build with these shops. I could also build the motor myself with some healthy upgrades for $12-15k with parts from LN Engineering.
Now on to the deficiencies. First there is the cylinder coatings, this is easily fixed with full nickies or nickasil coatings. I learned a lot about who does this and the process. I would recommend that anyone that has a motor built understand how this is done. Second issue is the big one... the reason why my motor failed, all be it at 200k but there r many that have failed sooner due to poor oil pressure in high g turns. Granted this is mostly an issue with cars that go on the track, but thats what these cars were built for.....right? If u r following zbombs thread or this poor guys thread https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...il-filter.html , its not if but when the track will kill our motors. There is a fair amount of research out there some vendors r happy to share, some not and even the "best" built m96s have reported pressure drops. All the builders i talked with say they can make a m96 last on the track, but for how long? Probably as long as their warrentee and then what? U r back where u started buying another $17-25k motor. The reality that has hit many before me is its just not wise to track a m96 motor, therefore spending money to rebuild seems like a bad idea.
Now what to do? I guess its time for a motor swap. I actually bought this car cheap with an inop motor to put an ls into it. The issue i have now is that after driving the car for 3 years and a bunch of track days is 450-500hp with no nanny controls would probably scare the schites creek out of me on the track. Remember i want the car to do what its great at both on the street and the track. There is aways the 3.8l sc chevy motor. I did drive out to MI to help ttt123 wire his up, but nah... not enough rpm. There were a few other exotic suggestions but support was lacking.
What to do, what to, what to do. Maybe ill just put the motor in the car that all c2s should have had from the beginning and as luck would have it the Good, the Bad A$$ and the Ugly happened. It took some work and i spent a little more then i wanted but in this market i expected to. Its also the fastest way i can get the car going again and not forfeit track fees. Ill be picking it all up in about 10 days.
So project "Read headed step child" is born, well because my car is red and im gonna beat on it like a ... well u know. Yea its a little redneck for a porsche build but it just seemed right.
The plan is to swap in what i need to get the powertrsin going and maybe the brakes and wheel carriers. Then sell off the rest. If my math is correct i should be in it for less then a good m96 reman. Ill try to keep good records but im a much better mechanic then i am an accountant.
50 years from now..... gee should have put a front tub in that car....
its all about the cost differential between a savage tile and the cost of a repaired gt3 compaired a to a well swaped meztker motor into a clean titled c2. Also the ability to sell off the remainder. U r welcome to buy the chassis and make something of it. Other then the color, seal grey, its a fairy low optioned run if the mill car with 70k on the clock. The insurance company totaled it so u know it aint gonna be cheap to fix.
So as I understand this, different motor without IMSB issue, more power out of the box, fits, and also less oil pressure issues? Sounds like a well thought out plan.
So as I understand this, different motor without IMSB issue, more power out of the box, fits, and also less oil pressure issues? Sounds like a well thought out plan.
The motor does not share many, if any of the design flaws in the M96.
It is NOT a "bolt in" affair - DJ will figure out what he needs to do, getting it physically in the car should be of little issue for him.
As he acquired the full donor chassis - he will have everything required to make it run (it ran in the car he's getting), and I think he has a pretty good idea of what it will take to get there.
Hopefully, he will provide some detail of the path as he works through it so maybe more people could consider engine swaps a viable possibility and not be required to move forward with a donor chassis, but a good idea of what components beyond the engine / gearbox solution are required.
The motor does not share many, if any of the design flaws in the M96.
It is NOT a "bolt in" affair - DJ will figure out what he needs to do, getting it physically in the car should be of little issue for him.
As he acquired the full donor chassis - he will have everything required to make it run (it ran in the car he's getting), and I think he has a pretty good idea of what it will take to get there.
Hopefully, he will provide some detail of the path as he works through it so maybe more people could consider engine swaps a viable possibility and not be required to move forward with a donor chassis, but a good idea of what components beyond the engine / gearbox solution are required.
So one of the reasons people dont try this swap is avalabilty, the other is that u need an expensive gear box too (stronger and has a cooler). Also since my car is a mk1 i need to swap the entire chassis harness, cluster and hvac controls.
To physically bolt the motor in i need to swap or modify the motor mount structure on the tub. The gt3 shares the turbo and c4s sheet metal in the engine bay. Its slightly different then the c2/c4 accross the rear support. There is also a bump in the firewall for the gt3 oil cooler. Both these items can be fabricated, taken from the donor or purchased from a dismantler for a low cost. I will have to get all the pieces to make a decision.
i will need to swap some hoses for ac, coolant and ps (but i may go cup car electric). The fuel sender may not read correct as the donor has a c4s style tank but thats no big deal.
This is why i really wanted the donor so i didnt get nickle and dimed into the poor house. All in all it wil be one of the simplest motor swaps i have attempted..... hopefully. Its been done before but there isnt a ton of pics or info on the process but i hope to document it for the next guy.
05-26-2021, 11:59 PM
