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As Aaron mentioned above, less margin for error on the narrow body cars and at the track, on my suspension, the tires will tuck into the rear fenders on suspension compression so getting everything clearanced to allow full rear suspension travel while keeping the tire free is required. It will probably necessitate pulling the spring off and compressing the damper to the stops to be sure, I will work that over the winter when the car is under the knife.
Heres a picture to illustrate just how much the rear will tuck on my setup as currently configured.
Rolled the fenders last week to see what that would do to resolve the rubbing I experienced in the rear with the 305/35, an act of God occurred today and it's 72 degrees in MA so I was able to get it out for a spin and I was "street" successful with the fender rolling. One rubbing occurrence going over a moderate bump in the road at speed. Spirited driving, no rub.
The fact it rubbed at all means I still have work to do to assure full rear suspension travel. I will be using the camber from the -2.5 to -3, maybe a little more and that should help. Also considering going from a 305/35 to a 315/30 as the 35 tire is really tall for the rear of the NB car...
I also have been stashing away parts for when she goes to sleep. Elephant front camber plates, cup rear sway, adjustable rear toe arms, cup dog bones, stainless brake lines, cup master cylinder, BK sub bar for passenger seat - Got to decide if I'm going to complete the set of cup LCA's I have or go another direction. Also, been thinking the car may go all black over the winter... still undecided.
Got some sweet pics though of the car with the wheels out in the wild...
Impressive update, thanks for sharing. Another thing to consider is the LCAs with wheelbase adjustment for the front, just in case you haven’t already made your decision.
Impressive update, thanks for sharing. Another thing to consider is the LCAs with wheelbase adjustment for the front, just in case you haven’t already made your decision.
Randy - Can you expand on the above with regards to front LCA with wheelbase adjustment.
Im running a 295 with a 11x18 et63 rim on my 2000 c2. It has about 2.5* of camber and it fits with plenty of room with rolled fenders. Im sure the 305 will fit easily. Im also picking up some 305s nt-01s later this month so ill be testing my theory too.
Heres a picture to illustrate just how much the rear will tuck on my setup as currently configured.
I see your inside front wheel in the air again, if you run a stiffer rear sway it will help that and will limit compression in the rear as the same time. I'm actually wondering if your rear springs are too soft as well.
I see your inside front wheel in the air again, if you run a stiffer rear sway it will help that and will limit compression in the rear as the same time. I'm actually wondering if your rear springs are too soft as well.
I have been thinking about the same thing, especially reading earlier in the thread about what some are suggesting for spring rates. The Öhlins are really a dual purpose coilover and I'm wondering if I up the spring rates if a revalve should happen concurrently. I'm such a noob on suspensions, I need to do some research for a MFG, shop or person to work with that can help me along in this department.
For the wheelbase, my hypothesis is if I can just nudge the front wheel rearward a few mm I can get clearance for the 245s. So the elephant racing LCAs have that adjustment. I might be wrong there.
Yes agreed for the rear spring rate, I have just ordered higher rate springs to swap into my Ohlins. Really looking forward to next track season.
For the wheelbase, my hypothesis is if I can just nudge the front wheel rearward a few mm I can get clearance for the 245s. So the elephant racing LCAs have that adjustment. I might be wrong there.
Yes agreed for the rear spring rate, I have just ordered higher rate springs to swap into my Ohlins. Really looking forward to next track season.
What did you go with for springs and where did you buy ?
What did you go with for springs and where did you buy ?
Thanks !
I liked the rates on the H&R Club Sports that I had before, the rates were approximately 450/900. I called Ohlins and they talked me through process and proper specs. They are Swift Springs and were ordered through MGC Suspensions. Once I get them installed, I can report if they are the correct size and how they feel.
I liked the rates on the H&R Club Sports that I had before, the rates were approximately 450/900. I called Ohlins and they talked me through process and proper specs. They are Swift Springs and were ordered through MGC Suspensions. Once I get them installed, I can report if they are the correct size and how they feel.
The stock Ohlins rates are 343/685 - Are you planning on making any changes to the dampers (revalving) ?
The Ohlins rep said the current valving can cover +15% Spring rate. My selection is above that. However I am not running close to the max damping force currently. I would like to try this set-up and reflect if it works or not. I will report back.
The Ohlins rep said the current valving can cover +15% Spring rate. My selection is above that. However I am not running close to the max damping force currently. I would like to try this set-up and reflect if it works or not. I will report back.
Interesting... Thanks for the info !
I have been running my Ohlins at 3 clicks to the stiffest setting all track season. I actually wanted to go stiffer before the last track day but now knowing the track kept me from attempting as I knew what I had and thought better of messing with it, for better or worse.
Dudes... I made some changes to the car, took it to Europe and entered a hill climb, wanted to show them all what's up, they even thought it was a GT3. Don't worry - I'm back and I returned the car to how you last saw it.
I wheeled the car so mightily - they put a video up on YT - you should all check it out