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Mini rivnut tool came in and I had to finish the string pot install up, she is secured for good . After getting the sensor permanently installed I redid the mounting of the string to the column to better utilize the sensor - basically connected the string when the column was fully turned one side - Honestly I don't know enough about these sensors to know why that's important but Matt at Trailbrake told me to do it, so I did.
Also, new slave came in for the one I broke being dumb and I got some Swift springs for the Ohlins on order, they'll unfortunately be a couple weeks out due to back order.
This is why im on the fence for buying the r&t or just getting these. I know u commented in my other thread but i know u have been hip deep in research since u bought your car. They do have a 24hr (race hr) rebuild instead of the 38k mile, but they come with the tops and the higher rate swifts already. For me it would probably be a 3 yr rebuild schedual.
My feeling is the valving on the race setup is what they do on the proven 110/150 R&T revalve setup I mention previously.
The additional cost is the standard top mounts and swift springs on the race setup that do not come on the R&T.
I would reach out direct to Barry Battle at 3DM Suspension and tell him what you’re looking for. They can sell you a setup valved and sprung for your requirements.
Yes i agree on the extra costs thats why im entertaining this option. I can soften the spring rate a little to your new specs at no extra cost at time of purchase. The ohlin top plates would work for me as i can already get over 2.5* of camber with my set up.
Something about a complete bolt in without mixing in factory parts seems more appealing to me. I just dont want to take all the comfort out of my car. I just want 75% race car.
Cool, well a guinea pig for the race setup would certainly be beneficial for the community.
The spring rate differences for pure track cars Vs street are so far off, I am not sure where the line is on what I would consider too stiff for street use.
I think the R&T off the shelf setup is really, really good and the reviews and my experiences prove that out. The ability for them to grow with you with factory backed revalving to your rates gives room for growth. Given the chance to do it over again, I would take the same path.
The next step up for me would be 2 ways and not until I am experienced and can digest data well enough am I worried about that.
One of the really cool aspects of the Aim system in the car will be the ability to plot G force Vs steering angle. This will be an easy way to quantify the driver is asking for something the car is not willing to give. Be it changing tire pressures or damper settings, small incremental changes should be easier to see in the data that they would be to feel. Things like damper and pressure changes before could only be measured by seat of pants and lap times... now I’ll be able to quantify which will allow for digestion of smaller adjustments and allow me to just focus on driving and not trying to feel exactly what those 2 additional clicks of stiffness on the damper feel like.
Got my gearbox back with the OS Giken LSD Installed. From what the installer told me - Here's what he did to get PS Giken PN PR112-HA installed in my 03 G96:
Cut down a tab on the inside of the case
Shorten the stub axles 2MM to match G50
Will install this weekend. Waiting on fluid from Pelican - Porsche PN 000 043 305 49. Also need to replace the slave, since I have to bleed it, I'll throw it on the gearbox outside the car which will make life slightly easier. Still pissed I have to bleed it to begin with but hey, is what it is.
I have at least 1 full and 1 either full or nearly full bottle of Motul 300V that I won't be using, if anyone wants them and just pay for the shipping - first to post claiming it and I'll ship Monday.
Got my gearbox back with the OS Giken LSD Installed. From what the installer told me - Here's what he did to get PS Giken PN PR112-HA installed in my 03 G96:
Cut down a tab on the inside of the case
Shorten the stub axles 2MM to match G50
Will install this weekend. Waiting on fluid from Pelican - Porsche PN 000 043 305 49. Also need to replace the slave, since I have to bleed it, I'll throw it on the gearbox outside the car which will make life slightly easier. Still pissed I have to bleed it to begin with but hey, is what it is.
I have at least 1 full and 1 either full or nearly full bottle of Motul 300V that I won't be using, if anyone wants them and just pay for the shipping - first to post claiming it and I'll ship Monday.
Very cool, can’t wait to hear your thoughts on the set-up. Was he able to grab any pics of the process?
Looking forward to you bolting it on and your impressions. You will be blown away at the upgrade in stability, balance and feel of the car, around town and on the track. There is nothing worse than the inside wheel spinning when the outside wheel is loaded as you are coming out of a turn. Certainly creates a squirrelly feel to the car. Now it will be gone!
So, what is the difference between some of these, say Ohlins or other brands versus what comes with the car? Once I get done sorting some of the mechanical maintenance items, I'd like to start refreshing the suspension due to age. Owning old Mopars (miss the 71 cuda), replacing anything bushings, balljoints, etc., was on the list and I don't look at this car any differently. The shock and spring combination sounds like you could go several different directions. Mine being a strictly street proposition, 03 Cab with tippy.
Very cool, can’t wait to hear your thoughts on the set-up. Was he able to grab any pics of the process?
I asked, he forgot... He had the box for a couple weeks and once he started, he got it done in a day - billed me 4HRS labor. I'm excited to try it, like real excited.
The cold kicked my *** today... But I got done what I told myself was required... Its bolted up and the motor/trans are supported by their proper mounts. So glad to have the motor off the jack stands, made working underneath a real pain the past couple weeks.
I'll wrap it up tomorrow
Originally Posted by GC996
Looking forward to you bolting it on and your impressions. You will be blown away at the upgrade in stability, balance and feel of the car, around town and on the track. There is nothing worse than the inside wheel spinning when the outside wheel is loaded as you are coming out of a turn. Certainly creates a squirrelly feel to the car. Now it will be gone!
You're setting my expectations real high I'm just really looking forward to being able to get it on 4 wheels and taking it for a rip... Winters getting long.
Originally Posted by nrp3
So, what is the difference between some of these, say Ohlins or other brands versus what comes with the car? Once I get done sorting some of the mechanical maintenance items, I'd like to start refreshing the suspension due to age. Owning old Mopars (miss the 71 cuda), replacing anything bushings, balljoints, etc., was on the list and I don't look at this car any differently. The shock and spring combination sounds like you could go several different directions. Mine being a strictly street proposition, 03 Cab with tippy.
Well, I think you are on the right track and the first order of business is making sure all the suspension arm bushings are in solid order, then you have a good foundation to work from. As far as springs / dampers... People seem to really like the Bilstein / H&R combo, if I was strictly driving the car on the road, thats the route I would take. I have had great experiences with both manufactures, I've had H&R springs on my F30 BMW for 110K miles and they look and perform exactly the way they did the day I put them on. You should get a lifetime of service out of them and the drop and bump in handling capability. Pair that with some nice tires, the car should rip pretty good on the road.
I have P zeros at the moment. The fronts are old like 2012, but the rears are brand new as of August. I haven't decided whether to lower the stance or not yet. Palmer race track track looks like a fun time though it looks like I'd have to install a cage to run there.
Hey, I watched the video of your string pot today, I'm worried about the linearity of the resistance between the first turn of the shaft and the following turns. The string is attached to the shaft in a place where the string is not coming straight out of the pot. When you turn the shaft the first time, the sting walks down the shaft until the string is coming straight out of the pot. This means the first string wrap will be longer than the others. This will send a greater resistance change to the computer for this turn. If the computer allows you to calibrate each turn individually, it should be OK, otherwise values will gets skewed somehow.
Hey, I watched the video of your string pot today, I'm worried about the linearity of the resistance between the first turn of the shaft and the following turns. The string is attached to the shaft in a place where the string is not coming straight out of the pot. When you turn the shaft the first time, the sting walks down the shaft until the string is coming straight out of the pot. This means the first string wrap will be longer than the others. This will send a greater resistance change to the computer for this turn. If the computer allows you to calibrate each turn individually, it should be OK, otherwise values will gets skewed somehow.
Good catch - because of the angles at play - without building a custom bracket to true everything up - that is the result. Also, because the string is mounted in the middle shaft of 2 U joints, that portion of the shaft will rotate at a different speed (Non linear) than the steering wheel and the portion of the shaft that is actually connected to the steering rack.
I will be calibrating the pot as a custom sensor and will add as many points as I need to get accurate results. The more string actually should allow me to get greater granularity of data at the cost of a more time consuming calibration.
Here's a good read from a fellow member on the cal procedure, take a look at the 2nd method he references.
02-17-2021, 09:44 PM
. After getting the sensor permanently installed I redid the mounting of the string to the column to better utilize the sensor - basically connected the string when the column was fully turned one side - Honestly I don't know enough about these sensors to know why that's important but Matt at Trailbrake told me to do it, so I did.
