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Also, get the GT3 brake ducts, they are larger than the stock ones and are stupid cheap - everyone who ever has to jack up and work on their own car should do this - it will take you 15 min if the car is already on stands and the wheels are off.
GT3 Front Brake Ducts
Thanks for reading !
One of the best pieces of easy simple and affordable advice I've seen on here. Very cool They are in my cart. $4.21 each!
I have been looking into LSD options and am thinking about going with the Quaife setup as part of the winter upgrades...
The stuff I'm thinking about doing over the winter:
- LSD
- Apex Wheels with 245 and 315''s
- Fit the GT3 cup top mounts, sway bars, LCA's, UCA, wish bones and toe arms. (Have most of these parts)
- Car Data/lap logging. I want to be able to log oil pressure and temp, coolant pressure and temp, lambda in both banks, IAT, crankcase vacuum - This is my pie in the sky list and will probably have to settle for only some of these parameters.
- GT3 Cup roof installed (Have this now)
- FG of CF hood
- External oil cooler mounted where the passenger muffler used to be fed by a NACA duct and puller fan through the heat exchanger exhausting through vent in rear bumper. I will use tubing to duct to the cooler which will be shrouded in something like the below.
One of the best pieces of easy simple and affordable advice I've seen on here. Very cool They are in my cart. $4.21 each!
I mentioned these to the owner of the 996 C4 that I installed the coilovers on yesterday.
I promised to get him the part numbers. (I still need tondo that)
Where did you find them that cheap?
Found a set of BBS E88's for sale in NY - A 5.5HR one way trip. Made an offer I did not really think would be accepted and sure enough, I now have my dream wheels.
18X9 - not sure of offset, Seller said 44,
18X12 44 (WB Sizing maybe...) Seller was running them on what I thought was a NB 997
Good
- Did I mention these are my dream wheels for a 996 - Iconic racing heritage, timeless design, light and strong
- I did not pay close to retail
- Came with Toyo R888R 245/40 and 305/35 - The front are in pretty good shape - I'll probably only get a track day or 2 out of the rear. But, definitely better than nothing and will give me a chance to see if I like them
- Wheels are in very good condition
Not awesome
- Fronts will require a small spacer to clear the Öhlins, going to get a 3MM and a 5MM set and see what's what...
- Rears are going to require some work. I'm thinking
A) Path of least resistance (money) swap what I think to be a 3in lip with a 2 in bringing the width down to an 11in and bringing the offset in by an inch. I think that would make the wheels pretty close to cup specs
B) Get new barrels and lips to keep the wheels at 12in wide but get the offset to 68.
I think I'm probably going to go with A but if anyone has good hookups in the land of 3 piece wheels, feel free to pass along contacts as I would like to learn more about what options exist.
Also, for anyone interested in weight comparison:
Stock front 18X8 225x40 43.5 LBS
BBS Front 18X9 245X40 47 LBS
Once I get the BBS sorted, I may be selling the MY02 that are currently on the car with PS4S so if anyone has any interest in those, feel free to let me know in the PM's. They won't be cheap as the powder coat cost I have into them was expensive but they are very close to perfect and very unique.
Another option, fender flares and run the rear wheels as is. It’s an option...
The thought had crossed my mind but the only rear flares I was seeing that are readily available are the RSR and I don't think they would look right without addressing the front as well. And I only need an inch, maybe an inch and a half, so they would be way overkill I think.
Then there's the whole cutting the fender and welding the seam, fender liners etc... I went wide body on my last Evo and it was a lot of work to do it right.
The lines of the 996 are so appropriate, they need to stay that way.
Ahh love the e88s. I'm thinking easiest would be to reduce lip size. You'll lose that deep lip look but would be the most cost effective. I've worked with VRwheels out here in socal in the past for relip/rebuilds.
Ahh love the e88s. I'm thinking easiest would be to reduce lip size. You'll lose that deep lip look but would be the most cost effective. I've worked with VRwheels out here in socal in the past for relip/rebuilds.
Thanks for the vendor info, I’m less concerned about the lip size and more with getting the fit right and running a 305 or 315 tire.
Cool project....always fun to see a guy develop his own car. Hit me up if you want any advice/experience on bringing a street 996 to track. Over the past 7 years I’ve taken my car about as far as you can go with an m96 motor.....spent an absurd amount of money on trial and error that I’d be happy to help you save! One unique thing to remember is that these cars are very underpowered, so a lot of the advances in speed were actually counterintuitive. What makes a factory cup fast didn’t necessarily translate to the street car.
Few things I’ve already noticed:
1) Don’t buy a quaife. It’s serviceable for canyon carving but the cost benefit is horrible for a car that’ll run on track. Save your money and get a Guard down the line; eventually you’ll go that route anyway and this way you save install $$
2) 18x9/12’s won’t fit your car. You need 18x8/10 (maybe 11 if you go aggressive camber)
3) Correct tire size for this car is 240/280....that’s the fastest set. Any larger and you’re adding rolling resistance that actually slows the car down on fast tracks. To save you time and headache, anything larger than 300 will not fit in the rear period unless you go full track set-up (at least 2.7 degrees camber), rolling the fenders and tubbing the wheel wells. You could probably fit a 305 street tire under there, but the sidewall would have to be so low profile that it’ll be useless on track. I run 250/305 slicks for races to manage wear, but if I was captain money bags I’d qualify on 240/280 because they’re faster
4) switch to a 55” wing on the back. The cup 60” is WAAAY to much drag and is a vMax killer on our cars. It won’t look as cool, but it’s faster.
Here’s mine at is sits today. No 996 street car left except the tub, ABS and m96. It weighs 2,440lbs with 1/2 a tank of gas!
I have 315's in the rear on an 11.5" wheel with no adjustable control arms.... BUT ....The 11.5" wheel was not something I spec'd. I really wanted CCW C14s or C10's and a local sale popped up for brand new wheels for a steal. If I could spec the wheels to my size, I would run something to accommodate 285/295 tires. Options become limited and expensive with a 11.5" wide 18" wheel. That being said...it sure does look good.
Cool project....always fun to see a guy develop his own car. Hit me up if you want any advice/experience on bringing a street 996 to track. Over the past 7 years I’ve taken my car about as far as you can go with an m96 motor.....spent an absurd amount of money on trial and error that I’d be happy to help you save! One unique thing to remember is that these cars are very underpowered, so a lot of the advances in speed were actually counterintuitive. What makes a factory cup fast didn’t necessarily translate to the street car.
Few things I’ve already noticed:
1) Don’t buy a quaife. It’s serviceable for canyon carving but the cost benefit is horrible for a car that’ll run on track. Save your money and get a Guard down the line; eventually you’ll go that route anyway and this way you save install $$
2) 18x9/12’s won’t fit your car. You need 18x8/10 (maybe 11 if you go aggressive camber)
3) Correct tire size for this car is 240/280....that’s the fastest set. Any larger and you’re adding rolling resistance that actually slows the car down on fast tracks. To save you time and headache, anything larger than 300 will not fit in the rear period unless you go full track set-up (at least 2.7 degrees camber), rolling the fenders and tubbing the wheel wells. You could probably fit a 305 street tire under there, but the sidewall would have to be so low profile that it’ll be useless on track. I run 250/305 slicks for races to manage wear, but if I was captain money bags I’d qualify on 240/280 because they’re faster
4) switch to a 55” wing on the back. The cup 60” is WAAAY to much drag and is a vMax killer on our cars. It won’t look as cool, but it’s faster.
Here’s mine at is sits today. No 996 street car left except the tub, ABS and m96. It weighs 2,440lbs with 1/2 a tank of gas!
1st off - You the man !
Thanks for all the input - I know that knowledge you have passed along does not come easy or cheap and really appreciate it. 2440 LBS is certainly one way to mitigate an underpowered chassis. It also makes a lot of sense that some of the mods that one may think would be beneficial do not yield the entirety of the results hoped for due to not being able to fully seize the advantage due to lack of grunt - so I appreciate you bringing that up. Things like too much downforce creating a Vmax penalty that can't be overcame with the added cornering speeds the downforce allow are certainly interesting topics to discuss.
Onto your points
1. I have reached out to Guard to get some info - it is a big leap but I understand your buy once cry once mentality here and the performance of their parts is well known and I have no doubt on par with the price.
2. I am surprised to see your thoughts on sizing here - I'm a little set in the direction here at this point on running a 9 and 11, this seemed to be a pretty popular setup and I was taking some direction from Apex sizing suggestion for 996 NB cars. https://support.apexraceparts.com/hc...-Fitment-Guide
3. Camber likely to be in the 3ish range with 245 and 305. Can you share your suspension setup and ride heights ? I believe my ride height to be pretty conservative - I just told the shop that set it up to make it work for a dual use car - the next setup will be much more geared to track use with only the occasional street use - to and from track and maybe once a month rip on the road to a car meet or coffee run. Very cool you are faster with the smaller tire and really highlights some of those effects you mention of not making a big power setup for a low power car - what kind of time differences have you seen ?
I know nothing about suspension setup and would like to pick your brain on the topic.
4. Throwing a 55in wing is not a huge deal - I will run the cup wing for a couple events and get a feel for it and will have some idea of delta if I make the switch.
I plan on keeping the car for a long time and at some point - hopefully by choice and not need, will address the underpowered part - by the time that happens, hopefully the chassis will be relatively sorted.
Again, thanks for the input - feel free to post up some info on your setup, parts selection etc... and if you have any videos on track, I would love to see them.
Originally Posted by sweet victory
Any plans for sway bars?
Rough plan, I'm going to put a cup car bar in the rear, looking to source one for the front - otherwise maybe a Tarrett.
Thanks for all the input - I know that knowledge you have passed along does not come easy or cheap and really appreciate it. 2440 LBS is certainly one way to mitigate an underpowered chassis. It also makes a lot of sense that some of the mods that one may think would be beneficial do not yield the entirety of the results hoped for due to not being able to fully seize the advantage due to lack of grunt - so I appreciate you bringing that up. Things like too much downforce creating a Vmax penalty that can't be overcame with the added cornering speeds the downforce allow are certainly interesting topics to discuss.
Onto your points
1. I have reached out to Guard to get some info - it is a big leap but I understand your buy once cry once mentality here and the performance of their parts is well known and I have no doubt on par with the price.
2. I am surprised to see your thoughts on sizing here - I'm a little set in the direction here at this point on running a 9 and 11, this seemed to be a pretty popular setup and I was taking some direction from Apex sizing suggestion for 996 NB cars. https://support.apexraceparts.com/hc...-Fitment-Guide
3. Camber likely to be in the 3ish range with 245 and 305. Can you share your suspension setup and ride heights ? I believe my ride height to be pretty conservative - I just told the shop that set it up to make it work for a dual use car - the next setup will be much more geared to track use with only the occasional street use - to and from track and maybe once a month rip on the road to a car meet or coffee run. Very cool you are faster with the smaller tire and really highlights some of those effects you mention of not making a big power setup for a low power car - what kind of time differences have you seen ?
I know nothing about suspension setup and would like to pick your brain on the topic.
4. Throwing a 55in wing is not a huge deal - I will run the cup wing for a couple events and get a feel for it and will have some idea of delta if I make the switch.
I plan on keeping the car for a long time and at some point - hopefully by choice and not need, will address the underpowered part - by the time that happens, hopefully the chassis will be relatively sorted.
Again, thanks for the input - feel free to post up some info on your setup, parts selection etc... and if you have any videos on track, I would love to see them.
Rough plan, I'm going to put a cup car bar in the rear, looking to source one for the front - otherwise maybe a Tarrett.
Happy to help. Quick responses:
2) street car and track tire/rim combos differ for number of reasons. If you’re running stock height you could fit a 325 tire because it doesn’t have to tuck under the fender. As for rim size, it’s more about tire fitment than max width. For track tires you don’t want them stretched on a rim, so running 280-295 tires will fit better on a 10” than 11”
3) my ride height is “abnormal” because my car is. I run 80mm and 98mm (996 cup is 85 and 112-115). Front is off because I run a combo of 996/997 cup parts and rear is off as a result of the light weight and because I’m running a 305 rear tire (the max workable tire is 650, while the 996 cups are based off of a 680 rear).
Don’t stress over the car being underpowered. It’s a point of pride charging past 997.2 cups in my little street car. Primary issue is the m96 just isn’t tunable for power/weight classes, where the DFI and mezger cars can develop significantly better power bands.
My suspension settings are below; this is full race on 1000/1200lbs springs
09-29-2020, 01:53 PM
