zbomb's confused 996
#46
Race Car
Rear sway bar = changes front wheels.
I would leave the front sway bar alone for now.
Looks great.
#47
Race Car
Thread Starter
Happy to help. Quick responses:
2) street car and track tire/rim combos differ for number of reasons. If you’re running stock height you could fit a 325 tire because it doesn’t have to tuck under the fender. As for rim size, it’s more about tire fitment than max width. For track tires you don’t want them stretched on a rim, so running 280-295 tires will fit better on a 10” than 11”
3) my ride height is “abnormal” because my car is. I run 80mm and 98mm (996 cup is 85 and 112-115). Front is off because I run a combo of 996/997 cup parts and rear is off as a result of the light weight and because I’m running a 305 rear tire (the max workable tire is 650, while the 996 cups are based off of a 680 rear).
Don’t stress over the car being underpowered. It’s a point of pride charging past 997.2 cups in my little street car. Primary issue is the m96 just isn’t tunable for power/weight classes, where the DFI and mezger cars can develop significantly better power bands.
My suspension settings are below; this is full race on 1000/1200lbs springs
2) street car and track tire/rim combos differ for number of reasons. If you’re running stock height you could fit a 325 tire because it doesn’t have to tuck under the fender. As for rim size, it’s more about tire fitment than max width. For track tires you don’t want them stretched on a rim, so running 280-295 tires will fit better on a 10” than 11”
3) my ride height is “abnormal” because my car is. I run 80mm and 98mm (996 cup is 85 and 112-115). Front is off because I run a combo of 996/997 cup parts and rear is off as a result of the light weight and because I’m running a 305 rear tire (the max workable tire is 650, while the 996 cups are based off of a 680 rear).
Don’t stress over the car being underpowered. It’s a point of pride charging past 997.2 cups in my little street car. Primary issue is the m96 just isn’t tunable for power/weight classes, where the DFI and mezger cars can develop significantly better power bands.
My suspension settings are below; this is full race on 1000/1200lbs springs
#48
Happy to help. Quick responses:
2) street car and track tire/rim combos differ for number of reasons. If you’re running stock height you could fit a 325 tire because it doesn’t have to tuck under the fender. As for rim size, it’s more about tire fitment than max width. For track tires you don’t want them stretched on a rim, so running 280-295 tires will fit better on a 10” than 11”
3) my ride height is “abnormal” because my car is. I run 80mm and 98mm (996 cup is 85 and 112-115). Front is off because I run a combo of 996/997 cup parts and rear is off as a result of the light weight and because I’m running a 305 rear tire (the max workable tire is 650, while the 996 cups are based off of a 680 rear).
Don’t stress over the car being underpowered. It’s a point of pride charging past 997.2 cups in my little street car. Primary issue is the m96 just isn’t tunable for power/weight classes, where the DFI and mezger cars can develop significantly better power bands.
My suspension settings are below; this is full race on 1000/1200lbs springs
2) street car and track tire/rim combos differ for number of reasons. If you’re running stock height you could fit a 325 tire because it doesn’t have to tuck under the fender. As for rim size, it’s more about tire fitment than max width. For track tires you don’t want them stretched on a rim, so running 280-295 tires will fit better on a 10” than 11”
3) my ride height is “abnormal” because my car is. I run 80mm and 98mm (996 cup is 85 and 112-115). Front is off because I run a combo of 996/997 cup parts and rear is off as a result of the light weight and because I’m running a 305 rear tire (the max workable tire is 650, while the 996 cups are based off of a 680 rear).
Don’t stress over the car being underpowered. It’s a point of pride charging past 997.2 cups in my little street car. Primary issue is the m96 just isn’t tunable for power/weight classes, where the DFI and mezger cars can develop significantly better power bands.
My suspension settings are below; this is full race on 1000/1200lbs springs
#49
Rennlist Member
Wow, all of a sudden, this has turned into my go to thread for track set-up. Thanks guys!
The following 2 users liked this post by Ratchet1025:
Projekt EPiK (02-22-2021),
zbomb (10-14-2020)
#50
Rennlist Member
Would you say the handing characteristics for your car are pretty neutral with this setup? I'm trying to help my friend get his 996 track car setup but we both come from a BMW background. We're switching his suspension to JRZ RS Pros that included 600lb /800lb springs. We were thinking it was too soft. It's a track dedicated car that weights less than 2,500lb.
I’m the idiot that has tried almost every combination of spring rates, so hopefully I can save you a bit of money. 500/700 is way too soft and creates epic ABS issues. 700/800 is good if you’re running a low profile tire (640 or below), but still a bit of a compromise; really more for nasty bumpy tracks. 800/1000 created a weird gremlin on my car....porposing and general instability (I think that’s a “my car” issue tho). 1000/1200 is just right!
For your buddies car I’d go 700/800 If he’s in the process of learning the car, and by car I mean how to track a 911. If not, I’d head up the rate scale to min 900/1100. Important to also be sure the JRZ’s are valved properly; they may be set for a 3,100 pound car on soft springs.
I don’t want to send Zbomb’s thread too far off topic, so you guys can feel free to PM me anytime.
The following users liked this post:
Projekt EPiK (02-22-2021)
#51
Race Car
Thread Starter
It’s neutral, but more importantly it’s tunable. I run double adjustable motons from a 996 cup, so not demonstrably different than the JRZ’s. I can get it to do what I want on most tracks without having to compromise. Only real issue is a little push in high speed corners (>120mph) that is aero related.
I’m the idiot that has tried almost every combination of spring rates, so hopefully I can save you a bit of money. 500/700 is way too soft and creates epic ABS issues. 700/800 is good if you’re running a low profile tire (640 or below), but still a bit of a compromise; really more for nasty bumpy tracks. 800/1000 created a weird gremlin on my car....porposing and general instability (I think that’s a “my car” issue tho). 1000/1200 is just right!
For your buddies car I’d go 700/800 If he’s in the process of learning the car, and by car I mean how to track a 911. If not, I’d head up the rate scale to min 900/1100. Important to also be sure the JRZ’s are valved properly; they may be set for a 3,100 pound car on soft springs.
I don’t want to send Zbomb’s thread too far off topic, so you guys can feel free to PM me anytime.
I’m the idiot that has tried almost every combination of spring rates, so hopefully I can save you a bit of money. 500/700 is way too soft and creates epic ABS issues. 700/800 is good if you’re running a low profile tire (640 or below), but still a bit of a compromise; really more for nasty bumpy tracks. 800/1000 created a weird gremlin on my car....porposing and general instability (I think that’s a “my car” issue tho). 1000/1200 is just right!
For your buddies car I’d go 700/800 If he’s in the process of learning the car, and by car I mean how to track a 911. If not, I’d head up the rate scale to min 900/1100. Important to also be sure the JRZ’s are valved properly; they may be set for a 3,100 pound car on soft springs.
I don’t want to send Zbomb’s thread too far off topic, so you guys can feel free to PM me anytime.
#52
Race Car
Thread Starter
Changed the gearbox oil for the first time since I've owned the car with Motul Gear 300, replaced both the fill and magnetic drain plugs with new parts from the dealer while I was at it. $50 for the fill, drain and a stack of crush washers...
Changed out the Driven XP9 and the 1042 filter and gave the suspension, steering and brakes a good once over.
Ordered 2.5in lips for the E88s, will bring the rears down to 11 so we'll see where that gets us. Also, bought 5MM spacers from a fellow RL'r which should get the front all sorted.
I could have the new wheel/tire setup ready for the track next weekend, not going to push it though as I know the current setup will get me through without question.
I'll be at Palmer Motorsports Park next Sunday, been watching many laps of the place and I can not wait to get out there. Will be my last track day of the year.
Changed out the Driven XP9 and the 1042 filter and gave the suspension, steering and brakes a good once over.
Ordered 2.5in lips for the E88s, will bring the rears down to 11 so we'll see where that gets us. Also, bought 5MM spacers from a fellow RL'r which should get the front all sorted.
I could have the new wheel/tire setup ready for the track next weekend, not going to push it though as I know the current setup will get me through without question.
I'll be at Palmer Motorsports Park next Sunday, been watching many laps of the place and I can not wait to get out there. Will be my last track day of the year.
The following users liked this post:
Ratchet1025 (10-18-2020)
#53
Race Car
I'll be there Monday. I can't make it next weekend.
Do you know which direction you're running? If you want a talk through give me a call. Or if you want to meet for a chat tomorrow.
Do you know which direction you're running? If you want a talk through give me a call. Or if you want to meet for a chat tomorrow.
#54
Race Car
Thread Starter
I'm not sure which direction, I've reached out to the organizer to try to nail it down. Not sure I can meet tomorrow but will definitely reach out in the next couple days for some helpful hints.
I need to buy the GPS also, keep forgetting. Going to do that now.
#55
Race Car
Running with SCDA, we're going clockwise. I'm bringing the Corrado, I just installed some Toyo R888R's on it as the NT01's were totally hammered. Last time out at Palmer going the other direction I set a PB of 2:00 flat.
The 996TT seems to have developed an oil leak that will require an engine out service to fix, annoying.
The 996TT seems to have developed an oil leak that will require an engine out service to fix, annoying.
#56
Race Car
Thread Starter
Running with SCDA, we're going clockwise. I'm bringing the Corrado, I just installed some Toyo R888R's on it as the NT01's were totally hammered. Last time out at Palmer going the other direction I set a PB of 2:00 flat.
The 996TT seems to have developed an oil leak that will require an engine out service to fix, annoying.
The 996TT seems to have developed an oil leak that will require an engine out service to fix, annoying.
Bummer on the turbo, let me know if you want another set of hands for the work, I’d be happy to help out.
#57
Race Car
Thread Starter
2.5in lips installed and spacers showed up today as well.
Hopefully tomorrow pics of the wheels on the car and at least close to fitting.
For now, enjoy this hot, hot fire
Hopefully tomorrow pics of the wheels on the car and at least close to fitting.
For now, enjoy this hot, hot fire
The following 4 users liked this post by zbomb:
#59
Race Car
Funny, you went from NT01 to R888R and I am close to pulling the trigger on the inverse. Thinking I’ll likely pull the R888r off as the rears have some pretty bad camber wear and putting the NT01s on, folks seem to speak really highly of them, and in Porsche circles it seems the R888r does not get as much praise. I’ll keep the R888r for a while in case of emergency.
Bummer on the turbo, let me know if you want another set of hands for the work, I’d be happy to help out.
Bummer on the turbo, let me know if you want another set of hands for the work, I’d be happy to help out.
Anyway the R888R's were fantastic. I clicked off four 2:01's in a row then a 2:00 before I had to take a cool down lap because of the oil temps. And I now know that I was not using a good line through 5-4-3 and I ought to be able to improve that next time.
If you're getting excessive wear on the inside of the rear tires it's probably a toe issue. Camber does not really cause much wear unless you go crazy aggressive, 3 or 4 degrees won't change the wear pattern very much.
#60
Thanks Tex, I get a real enjoyment modifying the car, the evolving vision of what I want it to be. I’m pretty happy where it is now and enjoy sharing it with others. The more I change, the more time I can spend around it when I’m not actually driving it.
I did 160 miles on a Sunday drive with one of my YT subscribers yesterday - it was a blast and the car still
works well as a road thrasher.
I did 160 miles on a Sunday drive with one of my YT subscribers yesterday - it was a blast and the car still
works well as a road thrasher.
I have wing envy on both BTW