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Good to see some progress.. but that third gear sounds no bueno
Yeah... Kinda sucks
Originally Posted by powdrhound
Did you end up softening the rear rebound Jason? Glad the gurney helped...
Have swung settings pretty far in both directions - fastest laps were set with rebound on the stiffer end in the rear. An aspect of the car that is different now - on the old setup, if I pushed to the edge of traction on a consistent basis, I was slower. Now, pushing to that edge consistently over a lap makes the car feel more predictable, on that edge, and it's faster. I am still a pretty newb driver, so my edge of traction is kind of relative but the general feeling is the harder I push it, the better it responds, like the operating window has shifted from where it worked well before to one now that rewards more slip. The suspension settings I ran on my fastest laps below - I am totally accepting they may be dumb, but such comes with figuring out how to turn these ***** in a beneficial way
The gurney flap made either a real difference, or a mental difference going through turn 11, Its a 75MPH off camber turn on to the main straight and a place where my ***** shrink a little going through, the car can go a lot faster there but the track runs away from you pretty quickly, I'm carrying 2MPH and another .2G through there than I was last year.
Originally Posted by Falcon911
@zbomb Curious about your caster setting of 6.6 degrees. Was this to your request or the shops recommendation? Or maybe tire clearance? I have limited knowledge beyond the factory specs and was wondering if less caster is desirable for a track alignment or is this more focused to your particular setup?
I did not give the shop a value for caster. They know the car pretty well and I told them, try to facilitate the 275 front while doing no harm, that's what I got. The front end has felt great, so I have no complaints so far.
Cool pic Jason. Just thinking, what size is your wing, maybe 57"? I looks as if you could go to a bit wider wing (maybe 2-3" wider each side) and push the width of the wing to 63-65" to closer match the width of the car in the rear which is 69" if I recall on the narrow body. This would definitely give you even more downforce thus giving you more rear grip out of the 305s to help balance the 275s.
Last edited by powdrhound; 08-04-2022 at 02:21 AM.
Cool pic Jason. Just thinking, what size is your wing, maybe 57"? I looks as if you could go to a bit wider wing (maybe 2-3" wider each side) and push the width of the wing to 63-65" to closer match the width of the car in the rear which is 69" if I recall on the narrow body. This would definitely give you even more downforce thus giving you more rear grip out of the 305s to help balance the 275s.
Yeah, it's something like that - it's what came on the Cup I parted out and acquired a bunch of parts from. I would really like to bring it out to body width in the future. Not likely to happen until I am ready to take a deeper dive into developing the full body aero as a system unless I happen to run across someone selling one for a steal.
Yeah, it's something like that - it's what came on the Cup I parted out and acquired a bunch of parts from. I would really like to bring it out to body width in the future. Not likely to happen until I am ready to take a deeper dive into developing the full body aero as a system unless I happen to run across someone selling one for a steal.
that’s how you make money not buying anything unless whatever it is is a good deal. When can we expect your next track driving video? I need some real entertainment, my wife likes to
watch all these bull sht movies.
Well - the car has me a little down with the trans issue, especially going back and watching the video, seeing not only was it grinding in the last session into 3rd, but 4th as well But... stuff needs to happen and I need to get over it and see if band aids will work.
Today - First was to drain the oil out of the trans and see if anything loud fell out, Nope. Magnetic drain looked normal, filtered the oil coming out onto a paper towel and saw... nothing. Fluid was nice and golden, what I would expect for this amount of use and did not smell like it got way, way overheated. All in all - completely normal. So, Aaron had some Motul 300LS he is doing what he does, and being nice enough to donate it to the cause, so I'm going to throw it in and see if it makes a difference - as far as fluid making a big impact, I have low expectations, tried the regular Motul before the LSD went in and wasn't a big fan, but hey, it's free and worth a shot just to see if gets worse, stays the same or gets better. Also, just to try to rule easy stuff out, I re-bled the clutch and it feels, the same way it did before ... throwing inexpensive / free stuff off the wall.
Next up was making some brackets to affix the bumper to the body, I bent up a couple pieces of aluminum stock that will mount to the bottom of the bumper near the wheel well and then bolt up to the muffler bracket. I'm going to JB weld the brackets to the bumper so they will be entering holy matrimony for the rest of each of their days. Little embarrassing but at least a couple times, caught on camera by track photographer, the modified bumper decided it was going to make me look like a fool - so brackets are a requirement.
This is embarrassing...
Finally - I have been itching to produce some new data - It is not likely the M96 is long for the car - especially if the gearbox is done, so I decided to change up the oil I've been running Both brand and viscosity and see what the data says, trying to be a little more useful for you guys
Revenge of the parachute bumper... Looking forward to the data. I will predict the engine risk levels will go well above 50psi and the oil temp changes during turns will disappear. We should also see the water/oil temp ratio change if heavier oil runs hotter as discussed. Good luck!
Have you aligned your shift lever/cables using the factory tool? That made a difference on my car in terms of ease of getting it into gear when underway. Also there is some stuff about shift detent springs but I think that is mostly a 2nd gear phenomenon. Nice parachute you have there...
Well - the car has me a little down with the trans issue, especially going back and watching the video, seeing not only was it grinding in the last session into 3rd, but 4th as well But... stuff needs to happen and I need to get over it and see if band aids will work.
Today - First was to drain the oil out of the trans and see if anything loud fell out, Nope. Magnetic drain looked normal, filtered the oil coming out onto a paper towel and saw... nothing. Fluid was nice and golden, what I would expect for this amount of use and did not smell like it got way, way overheated. All in all - completely normal. So, Aaron had some Motul 300LS he is doing what he does, and being nice enough to donate it to the cause, so I'm going to throw it in and see if it makes a difference - as far as fluid making a big impact, I have low expectations, tried the regular Motul before the LSD went in and wasn't a big fan, but hey, it's free and worth a shot just to see if gets worse, stays the same or gets better. Also, just to try to rule easy stuff out, I re-bled the clutch and it feels, the same way it did before ... throwing inexpensive / free stuff off the wall.
Next up was making some brackets to affix the bumper to the body, I bent up a couple pieces of aluminum stock that will mount to the bottom of the bumper near the wheel well and then bolt up to the muffler bracket. I'm going to JB weld the brackets to the bumper so they will be entering holy matrimony for the rest of each of their days. Little embarrassing but at least a couple times, caught on camera by track photographer, the modified bumper decided it was going to make me look like a fool - so brackets are a requirement.
This is embarrassing...
Finally - I have been itching to produce some new data - It is not likely the M96 is long for the car - especially if the gearbox is done, so I decided to change up the oil I've been running Both brand and viscosity and see what the data says, trying to be a little more useful for you guys
Luis, thinking you may approve of my choice.
Valvoline an American company has been producing some of the best lubricants since 1866. At one point the company’s slogan was the first and the finest. The company was always super strong in racing, testing developing new products, being aligned with the best mechanics etc. Anyway the company decided to split the business, so the quick lubes VIOC ( Valvoline Instant oil change), will be One Business, the other business will be the one that owns the manufacturing plants and sells the lubricants to distributors, other quick lubes, international sales, part stores, etc. Anyway recently it was announced that Aramco ( yes the Saudi’s) like Saudí Aramco is buying this business. I’m just being 100 💯 honest here. Having personally dealt with the Saudis I’m concerned about the future of the Valvoline brand, maybe I’m wrong but my gut feeling tells me something else. This week when the news were announced the stock sold off. Being 100 transparent I maybe selling some of my VVV stock. Soon no more the red white and blue all American brand. Sorry for hi jacking the thread Jason, i like buying and pay extra to a point for American made products.
Have you aligned your shift lever/cables using the factory tool? That made a difference on my car in terms of ease of getting it into gear when underway. Also there is some stuff about shift detent springs but I think that is mostly a 2nd gear phenomenon. Nice parachute you have there...
Good news is that it’s a grind, not a chunk/clunk. Checking cables is a great idea.
Also, how hot was it? Did the grind start off the trailer or after a few sessions? The 996 gear box internals are terrible and need a trans cooler to be able to handle even light track duty. If it was a super hot day and the grind started in the latter sessions, there’s a good chance it’s a heat issue. What would be considered moderate temp to most transmissions makes a 996 box act like a Victorian woman with a case of the vapors.
Good news is that it’s a grind, not a chunk/clunk. Checking cables is a great idea.
Also, how hot was it? Did the grind start off the trailer or after a few sessions? The 996 gear box internals are terrible and need a trans cooler to be able to handle even light track duty. If it was a super hot day and the grind started in the latter sessions, there’s a good chance it’s a heat issue. What would be considered moderate temp to most transmissions makes a 996 box act like a Victorian woman with a case of the vapors.
It was very hot and the grind started 1/2 way through the 4th session out of 5 in 3rd gear and the 4th gear grind started in the last session.
I never induced any grinding due to temp before so my mind has gone to the worst.
I will give the cables a once over. I have both the cable ends at the gear box safety wired to eliminate possibility of movement. I’ll check the shifter end.
Good news is that it’s a grind, not a chunk/clunk. Checking cables is a great idea.
Also, how hot was it? Did the grind start off the trailer or after a few sessions? The 996 gear box internals are terrible and need a trans cooler to be able to handle even light track duty. If it was a super hot day and the grind started in the latter sessions, there’s a good chance it’s a heat issue. What would be considered moderate temp to most transmissions makes a 996 box act like a Victorian woman with a case of the vapors.
Its interesting you mention that these transmissions suffer from heat issues. Mine lives behind a 500hp LS v8 and only ever gets to about 210* on a 95 degree day after 20-30 min session. I was expecting it to get much hotter (my bmw trans gets to 280), but it always stays relatively cool and take the abuse fairly well...so far.
It was very hot and the grind started 1/2 way through the 4th session out of 5 in 3rd gear and the 4th gear grind started in the last session.
I never induced any grinding due to temp before so my mind has gone to the worst.
I will give the cables a once over. I have both the cable ends at the gear box safety wired to eliminate possibility of movement. I’ll check the shifter end.
if your trans is original (never been rebuilt), its likely your syncros for now. I had the same problem 4 years ago and kept driving it. My situation went from $500 in replacement syncros to $5200 in replacement gears when it was time for a rebuild. If it were my trans, I'd pull it now and send it off to Gbox or California Motorsports. I'm guessing you know your car well enough to understand if this is a shifter issue or internal issue (very unlikely its shifter related)
if your trans is original (never been rebuilt), its likely your syncros for now. I had the same problem 4 years ago and kept driving it. My situation went from $500 in replacement syncros to $5200 in replacement gears when it was time for a rebuild. If it were my trans, I'd pull it now and send it off to Gbox or California Motorsports. I'm guessing you know your car well enough to understand if this is a shifter issue or internal issue (very unlikely its shifter related)
On most race cars this is the correct advice, but generally cost-ineffective for 996’s. It’s the BSR formula: run it until it blows up then replace with a used one…..etc, etc, etc. A rebuild will run about 4x the cost of a used and won’t add significant useful racing life (internal materials are the issue, not hours), unless you go with racing gears and synchros, then you’re at about 11x the cost.
I plugged in a 997S transmission and it has been great. Just got it back from Rader with a clean bill of health.
It sounds like Zbomb may be headed to a G50 which, if driven right, will still be operating long after the lizard people have taken over.
It sounds like Zbomb may be headed to a G50 which, if driven right, will still be operating long after the lizard people have taken over.
In what I view as a tragic twist of fate - the gearbox (I will need) has given up the ghost before the motor (I will not)... There is irony there I think.
No G50 for me - my good friend just had his G50 rebuild and the cost brought me to my knees, and I didn't even have to write the check.
The plan was to run the stock box for another season (at a minimum) with an LS engine. I am researching what to do in the very likely event the grinding box in the car is shot - I have spoken to a bunch of nice people and made some headway but... path forward still TBD. Used boxes are in the 3K range, I have gotten rebuild quotes in the 4.5K range to about 8K.
My twisted ultimate plan is to pair the LS with a PDK box...
08-02-2022, 09:07 PM
