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Would really like to learn more about how you fixed the roof rack channel parts! Did you post about it or learn from another thread? Thanks!
I looked for the part numbers and then ordered them. I thought the mounting points were welded to the body, but they are only held by a 8mm hex from the inside. The sealant gasket was painted and looked like a weld, I used a razor blade to cut around the mount and unbolted...way easier than I thought! Used some silicon gasket to reseal the new one and off to the races. The rest of the pieces were super simple to replace, just make sure everything is lined up when you go to snap them back together.
Went for a fun twisty drive in the foothills after a week of not driving!
But...
The wife drive the whole way.
She got pissed after the fourth time I told her not to shift from 1 to 2 until at least 3300 RPM or so.
I cringed a couple times when she kept it in 3rd at around 2300 instead of downshifting...but kept quiet.
Told her not to even bother with 6th gear when we got on the freeway...
Car did great, but boy it is hard to be a passenger!
Shifts at 3300? I'd reconsider your shift points as we all know how much these motors don't like the lower RPM's under load...4K minimum is where I shift on a casual drive.
Does she know how much a rebuild cost?
So I tried the P21S Polishing Soap. I normally use Blue Magic, Meguiars Chrome Polish and Turtle Wax. The soap has a blown styrofoam applicator. The product has a very fine white grit. Instructions say lather and apply. So I followed the instructions. I tried the wet removal technique on one set of pipes and let product dry completely on the other side.
Do not recco rinsing the soap off wet! The spray will migrate the grit. The grit will find a way to get where you won’t see it until you are final wiping your car. More on that in a minute. If you let it dry first, removal is less mess, but is shockingly hard to remove completely. Final shine is fine and the soap seems to remove as much carbon residue as Bar Keeper’s. However, the “leftovers” are white streaks and residue in very hard places to get to. The soap will leave a mess on the floor.
Cautions:
1. Those bubbles will turn to fine white grit. In your pipes, under your bumper cover, crevices between the tubes. Nearly impossible to remove all of it.
2. If any grit remains, 99% probability you will pick some up during a final wipe and distribute it on the paint. Once the stuff gets on your paint, you must wait for it to completely dry. I could not rewash the area and get the particles off, even using foam spray and good sponge. The tiny bits may come up with a soft wipe after completely dry, but may not. I had to clay bar the stuff off of my paint and PPF.
3. Once the grit gets in your cloth, that cloth is done. I’m afraid to ever put it in a machine to clean for fear of cross-contamination.
4. The soap may work just great if your item is off the car, but the *** pain I went through with the tips on the car means I will still be using trusty old Blue Magic and Meg’s in the future.
So I tried the P21S Polishing Soap. I normally use Blue Magic, Meguiars Chrome Polish and Turtle Wax. The soap has a blown styrofoam applicator. The product has a very fine white grit. Instructions say lather and apply. So I followed the instructions. I tried the wet removal technique on one set of pipes and let product dry completely on the other side.
Do not recco rinsing the soap off wet! The spray will migrate the grit. The grit will find a way to get where you won’t see it until you are final wiping your car. More on that in a minute. If you let it dry first, removal is less mess, but is shockingly hard to remove completely. Final shine is fine and the soap seems to remove as much carbon residue as Bar Keeper’s. However, the “leftovers” are white streaks and residue in very hard places to get to. The soap will leave a mess on the floor.
Cautions:
1. Those bubbles will turn to fine white grit. In your pipes, under your bumper cover, crevices between the tubes. Nearly impossible to remove all of it.
2. If any grit remains, 99% probability you will pick some up during a final wipe and distribute it on the paint. Once the stuff gets on your paint, you must wait for it to completely dry. I could not rewash the area and get the particles off, even using foam spray and good sponge. The tiny bits may come up with a soft wipe after completely dry, but may not. I had to clay bar the stuff off of my paint and PPF.
3. Once the grit gets in your cloth, that cloth is done. I’m afraid to ever put it in a machine to clean for fear of cross-contamination.
4. The soap may work just great if your item is off the car, but the *** pain I went through with the tips on the car means I will still be using trusty old Blue Magic and Meg’s in the future.
Thanks for warning us! I use P21S Paint Cleanser and it's great for removing small scratches. Never had a problem with it.
I thought someone said that you can replace those by just pulling out the old one and snapping in the new one for the hinge lid. Don't have to remove the strip.
I thought someone said that you can replace those by just pulling out the old one and snapping in the new one for the hinge lid. Don't have to remove the strip.
i don’t see how that part can be installed without removing the trim strip. There’s 4 snap points that attach to the trim strip and one needs to be able to apply pressure underneath the top of it to get it on correctly.
Replaced the underbody panel that I finished breaking when I took it off to replace some coolant lines a few weeks ago. I thought about repairing it, but with the break where it was, I figured it would just break again when installing or removing it. This one was kind of a pain to put in because I couldn't use the quick jack to lift the car because it blocked access to the front mounting points for it. Ended up having to use a floor jack and jack stands.
06-05-2020, 12:22 AM
