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Thank you for bringing this up; I recently changed my oil and I remove the oil line into the case. For some reason I can't get item number 58 correct, PET shows two part numbers, I must keep ordering the incorrect one? The o-ring on it now is green which looks like 999.707.255.40, that o-ring is #43 in the same diagram and used on the other hard oil lines for the cooler. Mine could have the incorrect (green) one installed on it now but it fits fine and doesn't leak. What do others see on theirs?
Top picture is the clutch vent tube. Connects to tubes between clutch bell housing and intake assembly cover. It's a pain to get back on there. VERY limited access. Part number 999.782.041.90
Continued! Near the small oil filter I noticed a 'port' on the case and figured something should be there...does item #11 in the below diagram connect to #23 in the following one? If so the clamps look different from a few posts above, thank you!!
Continued! Near the small oil filter I noticed a 'port' on the case and figured something should be there...does item #11 in the below diagram connect to #23 in the following one? If so the clamps look different from a few posts above, thank you!!
It sure does! I used hose clamps. Not the clamps in your first photo.
Thank you for bringing this up; I recently changed my oil and I remove the oil line into the case. For some reason I can't get item number 58 correct, PET shows two part numbers, I must keep ordering the incorrect one? The o-ring on it now is green which looks like 999.707.255.40, that o-ring is #43 in the same diagram and used on the other hard oil lines for the cooler. Mine could have the incorrect (green) one installed on it now but it fits fine and doesn't leak. What do others see on theirs?
i found the o-ring you referenced - 999.707.316.40 - on pelican and it's black. both o-rings on my oil line were also green and that's why i thought the one i referenced might be right. i will measurement the oil line channels tonight and make sure the 21.89 x 2.62 is close.
i found the o-ring you referenced - 999.707.316.40 - on pelican and it's black. both o-rings on my oil line were also green and that's why i thought the one i referenced might be right. i will measurement the oil line channels tonight and make sure the 21.89 x 2.62 is close.
the #255 o-rings are listed as 26.64mm, while the #316 is listed at 21.89mm.
Yes the black o-rings are 999-707-316-40. The ones I took off my car were green. I bought 12 of the black o-rings from FCP Euro for $1.39 each. https://www.fcpeuro.com/Parts/?keywords=999-707-316-40 Looks like the price went up by $0.10, but still much less than Pelican.
Yes the black o-rings are 999-707-316-40. The ones I took off my car were green. I bought 12 of the black o-rings from FCP Euro for $1.39 each. https://www.fcpeuro.com/Parts/?keywords=999-707-316-40 Looks like the price went up by $0.10, but still much less than Pelican.
thanks Jlaa. i've used FCP many times - good pricing and fast delivery - but they don't have the other 3 items i need. i search all the parts numbers for the 'entire site' and only these o-rings came up.
At the shop fixing an issue with my driver’s side rear strut top.
The Koni Sports come with a split washer and non-locking M12 nut to secure the stop plate to the strut rod & mount, but vibration caused the nut to loosen and the stop plate to start banging against the inner metal sleeve on the shock mount. This is after about 5000 miles: I suspect just some increased stress from a recent AX session or spirited drive accelerated it.
Koni doesn’t recommend any form of lock nuts as the hollow rod (sleeved with the damper adjustment) can be damaged, but the split washer & nut clearly isn’t sufficient.
I didn’t catch this fast enough and the shock rod threads need to be cleaned up so the nut can thread all the way down again, as it only threads about halfway. We’re going to put jamb nuts on top to prevent this from happening again.
Last edited by silverlock; 05-03-2023 at 10:08 AM.
I have Koni Sports as well. Can this nut be inspected in-car or the strut needs to come out?
Originally Posted by silverlock
At the shop fixing an issue with my driver’s side rear strut top.
The Koni Sports come with a split washer and non-locking M12 nut to secure the stop plate to the strut rod & mount, but vibration caused the nut to loosen and the stop plate to start banging against the inner metal sleeve on the shock mount. This is after about 5000 miles: I suspect just some increased stress from a recent AX session or spirited drive accelerated it.
Koni doesn’t recommend any form of lock nuts as the hollow rod (sleeved with the damper adjustment) can be damaged, but the split washer & nut clearly isn’t sufficient.
I didn’t catch this fast enough and the shock rod threads need to be cleaned up so the nut can thread all the way down again, as it only threads about halfway. We’re going to put jamb nuts on top to prevent this from happening again.
I have Koni Sports as well. Can this nut be inspected in-car or the strut needs to come out?
Struts don’t need to come out & can be done with the car on the ground. Hardest part is snaking your hand back to the strut tops. You can take the blower intake out to help.
What you want to do:
1. Check that the existing M12 nut is seated against the split washer that secures the stop hat to the strut. Torque spec is 20 ft-lbs, but less is OK because…
2. Put a second M12 x 1.25 nut on top as a jamb nut — naked is fine, but my shop put a nylock nut on or you can use a tiny drop of blue Loctite. You’re just going to screw that on two finger tight - about 2-3 ft-lbs at most.
If when you’re checking #1 and the nut is halfway up the shock rod and the stop plate has been banging up and down, you may want to chase the threads first to clean them up before then doing #1 and #2.
DM me if you have any questions. Spent all week back & forth on the phone to my tech troubleshooting, but I didn’t have a good thread cleaner/chaser in the right size and wanted to confirm no other damage.
I’ll likely make a separate thread on this for others soon + with pics of the final setup.
@silverlock Finally had some time today to poke around. The top nut on both sides seem to be holding securely. Thank you.
Originally Posted by silverlock
DM me if you have any questions. Spent all week back & forth on the phone to my tech troubleshooting, but I didn’t have a good thread cleaner/chaser in the right size and wanted to confirm no other damage.
I’ll likely make a separate thread on this for others soon + with pics of the final setup.
My big snowflake button on the CCU had gone from finicky to intermittent to non-functional so I took it all apart, used a lot of Deoxit D5 (thanks for the tip @Jlaa ) and it is fully functional again!
05-01-2023, 03:57 PM
