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Mating the centers of the former 11J rear wheels to build the front wheel, since they have 6mm more offset, with a 1" outer barrel and with a 7,5" inner barrel, the resulting wheel would be a 8,5" ET 46 wheel.
I compared the distance that the OZ alleggerita 8J ET50 leaves between the mating flange of the center and the outer part of the wheel (on the Inner side) and it is 170mm (infact the tire is touching the side of the body) and the same did on the BBS 9J ET46, so as they are right now, finding it is 162mm: so on the Inner side of the wheel arch there would be 8mm more space, by using the center with 6mm more offset but also reducing the inner barrel width by 0,5", there would be definitely more space on the inner side.
But maybe the problem is that the wheel would conflict on the fender.
Using the rear centers I can have 6mm more offset, moving the wheel to the inner side of the wheel arch and this is good also because it is abundantly compensated by the 12,7 mm less inner barrel width.
The OZ have 64mm space from the coupling flange of the center to the outer lip of the wheel, while the BBS would have 72mm (now 78mm) by using the rear centers: it would be like using an 8mm spacer on the OZ.
By reworking the fender lip probably one can gain 5mm more space, not more than this.
Oneside what I think is that having 0,5" more space on the innerside of the wheel arch would allow the use of larger tires, because already with the toyo 225/40 the front tires are rubbing the inner side of the body, but not on the fender lips, otherside I can give it a try installing the OZ alleggerita with 6mm spacers front and if they don't conflict with the outer part of the fender lips (silverina doesn't have reworked fender lips) I should be tranquil installing the 8,5" wheel ET46 with 1" outer barrel.
I was also considering the way front tires move while cornering under heavy load: the outer shock is compressed and the tire profile, because of the friction with the tarmac, tends to flex towards the innerside of the wheel arch, so under heavy load, even in the biggest compression, this creates more space between the tire and the fender lip, while the tire on the inner side of the corner is less loaded and shock also slightly less compressed, allowing more space because of the minor compression.
By the way this centers swap from former front to rear and viceversa, would lead to the following configuration:
Front wheels 8,5J (1+7,5) ET 46 (by using former rear centers)
Rear wheels 10J (1+9) ET 59
In the rear no problem with the fender lips, that are going to be reworked in any case, but lot more space for even more camber on the innerside of the wheel arch, while in the front I am going to make a test on Silverina by installing a 6mm spacer to emulate the least space on the outer wheel arch side.
If it works, the last 2mm would be larger compensated by the reworked front fender lips.
In this configuration I will have to find two 24 holes 7,5" inner barrels and two 1" outer barrels.
I would reuse only the front 1" outer barrels and I already bought used 9" outer barrels for the rear.
Concerning the bolts, seals, what is advised to do to make a good work?
For drilling the 5 lugs, the round shape utensil must have a defined radius and what should be the thickness in the thinnest part of the 5 lugs hole, i.e. how much material must be left in the deepest part of the hole not to compromise the resistance?
Last edited by nothingbutgt3; 04-05-2021 at 05:42 PM.
A specific question: where can I source this part? It is the RS/CUP Brake Control Unit Holder right? It is now or never, since the car is getting prepared for being painted.
No idea where you could buy it but it looks super easy to fabricate.
A specific question: where can I source this part? It is the RS/CUP Brake Control Unit Holder right?
It is now or never, since the car is getting prepared for being painted.
The ABS mounting bracket is 993.501.457.00 but I think it has been obsolete for some time. If you can't find one I could do you a sketch from the one on my RS.
The ABS mounting bracket is 993.501.457.00 but I think it has been obsolete for some time. If you can't find one I could do you a sketch from the one on my RS.
Thank you Colin for giving me this info, I will ask a few places.
Just in case I don't find it, I'll disturb you, but I really thank you for the offer.
I don't know how high the chances of finding that part are, of course I don't understand much of the meaning of moving the ABS control unit there, does anyone know it?
Maybe it was to put the control unit in a place less exposed to structural deformations in the event of a race collision?
Thank you Colin for giving me this info, I will ask a few places.
Just in case I don't find it, I'll disturb you, but I really thank you for the offer.
I don't know how high the chances of finding that part are, of course I don't understand much of the meaning of moving the ABS control unit there, does anyone know it?
Maybe it was to put the control unit in a place less exposed to structural deformations in the event of a race collision?
Your guess is correct, the bracket moves the ABS unit up from the vulnerable boot floor to the chassis leg to reduce the chance of collateral damage in the event of a minor racing indiscretion.
Your guess is correct, the bracket moves the ABS unit up from the vulnerable boot floor to the chassis leg to reduce the chance of collateral damage in the event of a minor racing indiscretion.
Yesterday I've been "working" 4/5 hours on the car removing sand, silt, dry mud, using mainly pressure air.
it is incredible the amount of alien stuff that was still present inside the crossbars, side members, boxed sections.
Yesterday I've removed half a kg of it, probably there are still 200 grams, and I will have to apply as a very refined 993 gardener on removing and place the stuff somewhere else:
maybe I could offer it on the internet
"limoncella soil, kind of blessed soil with which to make mud"
priceless mud
The project is going on, I finally found the wiring harness of the entire car, except the DME motronic and engine harness which are in amazing good conditions (I am checking continuity and impedance right now), maybe because they were designed to be exposed to water, and except the rear light harness that is repairable or rebuildable since it is a very small not very complicated one.
I am looking forward to have the car fully wired with her headlights turned on...still totally naked and far from being finished, but leith flashing lamps...I am arriving, leave me some space!
P.S. I remember there was a post somewhere here on RL that was all about the modifications needed to be applied on the Row DME 55 pole wiring pre-varioram harness to change it into the varioram version.
Last edited by nothingbutgt3; 04-10-2021 at 03:26 PM.
Yesterday was the day of turning up the inner edges of the rear wheel arches: in the end we created 5mm of extra space without altering the line visible from the outside in any way and keeping the support edge for the plastic cover inside the wheel arches.
Left Side
Right Side
Is there a procedure described here on RL to remove the plastic filling duct that goes on the right side from engine bay to oil tank?
I am also still looking for the last eventual stud to be welded inside the left wheel arch to locate the Varioram Air Reservoir.
The majority of the electrical 993 harnesses were/are made in northern Italy. I will try to find the name of the company in the scattered salad bar of documents.
I would buy a new engine harness, dirty cheap
Is there a procedure described here on RL to remove the plastic filling duct that goes on the right side from engine bay to oil tank? I am also still looking for the last eventual stud to be welded inside the left wheel arch to locate the Varioram Air Reservoir.
Just did this; its actually pretty simple just pull a guide wire on the old one when pulling out and use the wire than to pull in the new one.
993Cup ABS ECU in my RS Factory adapter plate Bracket in location 10mm proud of chassis rail, spot welded on only.
Thank you Colin,
I am going to make a small serie, if anyone is interested, of the chassis rail and of the adapter plate, that must be of aluminum, isn't it?
The majority of the electrical 993 harnesses were/are made in northern Italy. I will try to find the name of the company in the scattered salad bar of documents. I would buy a new engine harness, dirty cheap
This would be super, thank you so much, let me know what you find out!
Just did this; its actually pretty simple just pull a guide wire on the old one when pulling out and use the wire than to pull in the new one.
This was exactly what I was considering to try.
I can't avoid to be there at the coachbuilder shop every day: every day it's an Epiphany!
Last details to be fixed before spraying the undercoating layer
It is a matter of days now for seeing the car all painted white with the undercoating layer...a matter of weeks before the car will be all painted with her 2 Lemon yellow layers.
The CUP abs contro unit bracket and its adapter plate are on the way, we have to wait the bracket to be welded onto the chassis rail.
I am still wondering if installation of the varioram air reservoir needs some bolts to be welded for hanging it to the body.
04-05-2021, 05:24 PM
