nothingbutgt3

I already bought the plastic 4 performance lexan windows, I like the fvd kit the most, because it just not only reduces the weight of each door by approximately10kg, it is really well shaped, with holes and everything in place to accept the rs panels and manual windows, plus each door has the protection bar inside. They are priced not just a bit expensive, but they are probably the best lightweight doors available right now, from what I've seen so far, and they accept all the stuff that a standard door would ask.
20kg weight saving and it would look perfectly the same as a steel door.

I also saw a guy who advertise his rear hood with M003 perfectly reproduced spoiler, in single piece of carbon/kevlar, that should save more or less other 8 kg in comparison to the steel hood + plastic m003 spoiler.
Another place where there is "space" to save weight I think it is the exhaust compartment, using a single titanium gt3 muffler, probably there would be some nice 10kg saving more (since the 2 mufflers weigh 15,5 kg), and all in the very back of the car, which is also a very nice plus.

All these modifications, I can't afford them all together, it will take time to achieve the final result in regards to the weight saving: I don't know what the weight scale will show in the end, it would be super to see a three-digit number.
But the priority now is bring the Lemon car back on the street, perfectly working, rebuilt as brand new.

cobalt

I had some Getty parts and compared to some of the junk I see come from China they are quite good, but after a lot of consideration I sold them off and used factory parts. The cost to fill all the imperfections and fit the parts exceeded the cost of using factory bits for only a few pounds of weight savings and I don't think I would have been as happy with the final fitment. It would have taken a week or more vs a day or two to fit the parts properly. IIRC the WB 964 rear quarter in steel stripped to bare metal is only 15 pounds.

I will caution the use of the GT3 Ti muffler. I know everyone is doing this conversion but I have seen a number of these blow apart and when they do they aren't repairable.

nothingbutgt3

So would you suggest to use the RS CS/CUP lightweight doors?
​​​​

cobalt

Good question. That I guess is up to your wallet. LOL These parts were cheap years ago I have no idea what the cost would be today. From my perspective with all the beautiful work you have done I would try to emulate the original factory build as much as possible. I think there is always value in parts like those if you can source them.

nothingbutgt3

Thank you for your kind words Cobalt and for your advices that are always very on the argument, bringing new elements.
From what is visible in their pictures the FVD doors might have the inner side in steel and the outer side in carbon/Kevlar, but I will ask them detailed Infos.
IIRC the same was for the RS lightweight doors, only there was an aluminum panel in place of the carbon/Kevlar one.
Safety is important and I was trying to figure myself how could they attach a safety titanium bar to a bare carbon/Kevlar structure, which is very rigid and extra light, but also fragile, so maybe they attach the safety bar to the innerside structure, while the exterior panel is changed with a lightweight one.
If this is the way the doors are, I could even consider to reuse the original doors, because the inner part of each one of them is perfect/not bend at all.
But I can't believe just changing the outer panel can save 7,5 kg for each door...it sounds like a bit overestimated weight saving

ch3tman

This thread is about to enter a new gear awesome progress so far good luck with the next stages....!

nothingbutgt3

Now I am checking the wheel fitment: I would like to be free to use the BBS E29 both on the silver 993 with 5 lugs and also on the yellow one with centerlocking system.
I was checking the available space on the front side for the BBS E29 and I am quite sure the wheels were originally made in the following dimensions and assembly

9 x 18 ET 46 (Inner 8" + Outer barrel 1") Front

11 x 18 ET 59 (Inner 9,5" + Outer 1,5") Rear

But for changing the Offset I should reduce the outer barrel width, because by reducing the inner barrel width the Offset would decrease, and probably a good compromise would be an 8,5 channel, where I could mount the 225 as well as the 235 tires.

IF the front outer barrel has a 1" width, does exist a BBS 18" outer barrel in 0,5" width?
I think this would be the perfect solution a 8,5" x 18 wheel with ET52.

The Sportclassic II have an 8" channel ET52 and it is still possible to install a 6mm spacer, which is exactly half of the 0,5" increase of the overall channel.
such a wheel would be like an 8" ET 52 with a 6mm spacer on the wheel hub plus the additional 6mm larger channel also on the Inner side, that shouldn't compromise the wheel fitment.

But does BBS Motorsport produce outer barrels in the 0,5" size?
Did I make any miscalculation?

if the 0,5" outer barrels exist, I could move the former front 1" outer barrel in the rear, so to build a
10,5" x 18 ET 65 Wheel, that should be capable of mounting a 265 as well as a 275 tire, without touching the body or the wheel arch lip.

Advice, thoughts?

Talat

That's incorrect, ally doors are full aluminium - a steel door with the skin removed is still fairly heavy.

Also, try D.Moris for the doors, I think they supply FVD and will be cheaper.

nothingbutgt3

Thank you very much for the info Talat, I'll definitely contact them next tuesday!

I went in the garage to have a closer look to the wheel centers and as expected, they are different:

By measuring the width of coupling flange, flat inside to flat outside surface (not the stems, the hub), I could verify that the front 996 CUP wheels have a thicker center hub by more or less 6mm (or 1/4") in comparison to the rear one (70mm front hub thickness, 64 the rear one).

So I was thinking, in case a thinner than 1" BBS outer barrel wouldn't exist, I could gain 6mm offset in the front by coupling the rear centers with 1" brand new outer barrel and brand new 7,5" inner barrel, with a final result of an 8,5" x 18 ET 46 front wheel, which should fit in the front wheel arch.

And sametime, using the front centers in coupling them with the 1" outer barrel of the former front wheels and the 9,5" inner barrel of the former rear wheels, this should result in a

10,5" x 18 ET 59 and I think also this wheel size should fit in the rear wheel arch, since I am using the 18" ET65 with 6mm spacer and it doesnt touch the wheel arch lip at all (because of the camber)

I wanted to ask you guys if on the Limoncella you would rework the inner lips of front and rear fenders, if you know where I could get info about this specific mod and if you know if the plastic covers inside the wheel arches would stay in place in any case.

I also think that the CUP cars didn't have the same plastic covers inside the front and rear wheel arches, right?

TJ993

Try www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp to calculate fit
tj

Ed Hughes

As I recall, Bill Verburg has posted much information on fitment on RL.

nothingbutgt3

Following what Bill Verburg wrote, the magnesium wheels of the Cup car were

8,5J x 18 ET 53 Front fitting 245/645 ZR18 slick tires

10J x 18 ET 60 Rear fitting 285/645 ZR18

He also said the 10,5 is is harder to fit, probably because the camber helps to avoid to rub the fender lips, but it doesn't to avoid rubbing the innerside of the wheel arch.
But the RSR despite bigger wheel channels front and rear, still used the same tires, probably nkt to encrease the overall wheel weight, I presume, not to decrease performance.

Basically the closer I can get to the size of the Speedlines, the better it is.

TJ993

Here are many posts, but most ly by Bill Verburg
Conclusion dependant on brand / type of wheel and effected by ride height & suspension components.
Some springs are more compact than other so that is variable.
Conclusion 8.5 x 18 front is somewhere between et 51 Fikse (likely very tight, reducing tire width choices) to ET 57, with BBS rs-gt et 56 although et 54 would be ideal. (per Bill V)NOTE as ET goes down the odds of lip trouble go up.

Bill Verburg

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...rly-993-a.html
In the Rear lets not forget the two oil tines - rubbing is not only dangerous but could amount to a catastrophee !!
Just as an example - posts:Bill Verburg

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...d-offsets.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-question.html

nothingbutgt3

The starting dara of 996 cup BBS E29 wheels are as follows:
9J x 18 ET46 (1+8) and
11J x 18 ET59 (1,5+9,5)
And the desired final result should be
8,5J x 18 ET 53 and
10J x 18 ET 60
According to the calculations I just made, using the front 1" outer barrel with the front center and a 9" used inner barrel, the resulting wheel would be a 10J x 18 ET59.
The problem is at the front, where, to get a perfect 993 CUP wheel clone (in the dimensions) I should get a 0.5J outer barrel: does BBS produce it or is it necessary to custom made one?
by the way, the perfect result would be obtained by coupling a 0.5J outer with the rear centers and a 8J inner barrel, resulting in a 8.5J x 18 ET53 wheel, the same size of the Front Speedlines Magnesium with Centrlock.

Is it possible to custom made a 0.5" barrel by cutting a slice of 1" from the 1,5" rear outer barrel side and then welding the two remaining side together? It must be a precision job the cutting and welding... I noticed that near the outer edge of each barrel there is kind of a groove where the tire belt should probably be housed.
Barrels are made of steel, right? it should be possible weld it again without loss of resistance.
did anyone already do this?

paulkromz

FWIW BBS Motorsports makes 0.0" lips.... just reach out to them.

here is an example of what I am talking about...



never used this website but here are some examples...
https://www.felgenfuchs.de/en/home/