nothingbutgt3

I am looking for the parts to be added on the car in order to install the Varioram Intake System, which I already bought used, complete of throttle body, maf, air box.

I need to know exactly what is necessary to be added to a pre varioram engine in order to make the varioram intake work properly.

I found this scheme on the 993 Catalog, but it is plenty of parts and I would like to avoid buying parts I don't need at all.



Can anyone help me find out what the right parts to buy are?

nothingbutgt3

I am going to get almost the very last parts welded, specifically the battery disconnect Rennline EL62 mod and their Engine carrier RS style reinforcement to the original engine carrier, and I was asking myself what is the role played by the stud that should be welded at 215mm distance from the reference hole.
It is also nice to notice that the 2 holes buttonhole must have a divergent angle of 9° +- 2° from the longitudinal direction...amazing.

cup997laurent

This part is where the cables for the battery breaker are fixed. The angle is here to help the cables to turn the red key ....

nothingbutgt3

Thank you Lorent, I am trying to prepare myself and the parts to be assembled, knowing i will be in any case unprepared.

Meanwhile the rectifying shop has mirror polished the cylinder walls, after that the previous rectifying shop hooned them creativeness unacceptable helix crossed scratches on them.

I was watching the original long time submerged camshafts together with the responsible man at the shop and the only sign of corrosion was at the end of the right camshaft...I was worried it could be a surface coupled to a sealing ring, and of course I don't want the engine to be leaking a second after I have turned the engine on.

But watching carefully the PET diagrams I think, not 100 % sure, but I think that that specific surface is the one that is outside the camshaft housings, where it mates the steering pump pulley...


I was also wondering what is the difference between the left and right camshaft housing, since in the PET they have different part numbers, but onto the parts they have the same cast part number.

I think the fact the right camshaft front end shows corrosion is perfectly logic, being thepat specific surface outside the black, exposed to air and in my case...water, while the rest of the camshaft is perfectly in as brand new condition because isolated.
The steering pump case is not lubricated, it just has a plastic cover and when I opened the engine was full filled of mud and the pulley was totally rusted.
I am not going to get the steering pump back installed, and I will go for the Rennline aluminum cover for the pump removal.

cobalt

I could not see the detail in the pics you sent the other day. Now I see what you are saying and believe you are correct and shouldn't be a concern. Also your towers appear to be setup correctly.

nothingbutgt3

I've got the feedback that the Genuine Porsche Camshaft and untermediate shaft sprockets aren't quality affected, so much that it is advisable go for the r&s parts.

I must check if the supplier where I bought new sprockets got them from R&S or from Porsche.



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nothingbutgt3

The final weldings and in the next days they are going to start preparing the body with all the grouting, chewing, sealing procedures necessary before proceeding to give the substrate layer and then the first layer of Lemon yellow paint all over the car, except where she was originally treated like all the standard 993 with the sound proof material, painted in light gray below and in the car color in the wheel arches and on the side skirts.
I got the info the RS had no sound deadening layer, but this car will never be an original RS or a CUP, and this way she will be anytime reversible to her original layout.


Preparing the metal for the welding on both skdes


Professional at work


We decided to do the same also on the lower angle


They decided to drill holes in the EL62 provided by Rennline, point weld inside of each one of them and then grind them


Final result


Final result

Now I am still searching for the last big areas, like the used gearbox or alternatively a new set of roller bearings for the gearbox and the entire cable loom, with the cockpit buttons, and the European immobilizer/central locking control unit, together with the braking lines and the fuel lines, that for safety reasons I would very probably buy brand new.
Then I am also looking for floating brake rotors in 322mm diameter with lightweight bells, and I would need an advice, very important, what should be the rear brake rotor diameter since I will use her standard brake system and brake calipers (of the carrera 2 ): I am moving from 302 to 322 or similar diameter adding a spacer between the brake calipers and wheel carrier front, but I am not aware how to properly dimension the same way the diameter of the rear brake rotor.
In the rear there is a 299 mm diameter disc, should I go for another 322 mm in the rear as well or would this create an imbalance?

on a narrow body chassis I've read in the rear it is possible to install even a 285 18 inch tyre, and in the fron a 235, I was wondering if going for a 245 front would increase the cornering speed on mid to fast corners.
I am asking this because the 991 gt3 compared to the rs version has a lower cornering speed because the rs has a much wider fron path with 265 tyres instead of 245 ones...ok, it also has a wider front track.

I did a comparison between the rsr fron tyre width and the cup cars width and in the front it seems the rsr had just the 245 while the cup had a 235 slick tyres.

So I was asking myself if it would be possible to move the lower front A-arms frames outer like it is necessary to do while going the rsr style, but still be able to stay with the narrow body.
probably the fron wheel should have a 65/70mm offset instead of the standard 50/52, to compensate half of the 20mm outer position of the a-arms mounts.
is there anyone who did this before?

cobalt

It is amazing how much time all the finish work takes. Seam sealing is a very time consuming process to do correctly. If you use the factory Wurth undercoating the color is NLA but can be mixed from what they offer to make it look correct. The issue with the stuff is it adds a lot of weight. I don't know about the 993 but with my 964 pushing everything out as far as possible and going with a 245 tire has made a huge difference in handling. I am not sure a 265 will fit but I am considering it on a 9.5" rim up front. I forgot but I believe you are retaining power steering? I initially went with a manual rack but with the wider track and tires it was far too much effort to drive at speed especially under decreasing radius turns so I went with an electric power steering pump. Could be me just getting old and lazy.

Looking forward to seeing the progress.

nothingbutgt3

Thank you Cobalt, so if on your 964 you've been able to fit 245 on 18 inch wheels, this should be possible also on the 993. On the rear I think 285 is more than enough.

Another possible way might be painting with some kind of rubberish paint in the same color of the car, something between a simple layer of paint and a true worth sound deadening layer, but probably, if I had to go for something in between, I would rather prefer to go for the RS/CUP way

cobalt

Again it is a 964 not a 993 but yes I currently run a 245/18 on a 9" wheel up front. I have the factory RSR speedlines which run 9.5's up front and 11" rears on this same body style. I can fit a 265 on those but it is tight and limits full lock turning but you will never need to on track.

Here is my 245 on 9" up front using the 993 longitudinal which push my front end out an additional 12.5mm also using the wide body or outboard mounting points. I had to roll my fenders but again 964. I run a 295 in the rear but I am considering widening my rear wheels to 12's and going wider but that is food for future thought.

TJ993

Wheel Widths are often spoken of by Bill Verburg. His suggestion is 8.5 x 18 Offset 56. Tire 245/35-18

If not mistaken you need minimum 8.5 inch wide wheel for 245 width tire

I have not done the research yet for widening front track, not sure if rs wheel carriers are needed but if you have Carrera Cup Rear 9 x 17 why not try a test fit? All these wheels have same offset et55.
i may try this myself over weekend.
TJ

nothingbutgt3

I'll check the size of the centerlock E29s I bought used, that were equipping a 996 CUP.
the front channel should be already 8,5 or 9 inches and the rear should be a 10 or 11 inches, but I am not sure of the offset, irst of all I must measure them

nothingbutgt3

From what I was able to source so far, the BBS from the German 996 CUP I bought used must be the E29 (I am not 100% sure) and they should be 9 x 18 ET 46 (8" + 1") Front and 11 x 18 ET 59 (9,5" + 1,5") Rear.
If I want to try how they fit inside the wheel arches, front and rear, I must ask the grindershop to drill the 5 holes on them, the way someone showed here a couple years ago, I must find the thread, so that the wheel hub with 5 columns of the silver 993 aren't going to disturb the fitment, and it is something I have to do either way, since I would like to be free to use the BBS wheels on both the 993.

I think the front probably could remain the way it is, 9" channel width with a 245 tyre, if the ET is ok, while in the rear, I think I should go for a 265/275/285 maximum, with a channel width of 10 to 10,5" maximum, to make the tyre work properly on the track.

All my arguments are intended not for beauty, but for effectiveness on the track...couple years ago I drove a 964 with a very nice set up but most of all the car had 235 in the front and wow, they made a huge difference, the front was anchored to the ground!
Maybe using wider tyres would make loose some steering sensitivity, but same time should increase the cornering speed and move the eventual understear speed limit up.

Probably when driving to the limit, the loss of grip and load transfers (front to rear and viceversa) will be even more sudden, but having wider footprint of the tires, the car will also make it easier to regain grip.

I believe that the tires choice and the set-up factor, on cars without controls such as 993s are, or on cars that in effect must be driven all by yourself like the 992 CUP, are decisive aspects in finding the confidence necessary to push the vehicle to the limit of the driver's driving possibilities/skills/ability.

nothingbutgt3

Finally at the coachbuilder shop they decided it was time...

Grapeape

Incredible progress!