Orthojoe's track build journal
05-09-2015, 02:14 PM
#916
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
oh, no secrets, of course.
Front: -3 camber and 1mm toe out (per wheel)
Rear: -2.5 camber and 2mm toe in (per wheel)
Not sure about tire wear yet, but front grip feels great. Also, the steering weight difference between grip and no grip is stronger now, probably due to increased caster or maybe other stuff. But the end result is that it's easier to turn in just enough and not too much to the point front starts to wash out. That was an issue for me before.
The car is oversteery now, but that could be the K spec rear tires.
Front: -3 camber and 1mm toe out (per wheel)
Rear: -2.5 camber and 2mm toe in (per wheel)
Not sure about tire wear yet, but front grip feels great. Also, the steering weight difference between grip and no grip is stronger now, probably due to increased caster or maybe other stuff. But the end result is that it's easier to turn in just enough and not too much to the point front starts to wash out. That was an issue for me before.
The car is oversteery now, but that could be the K spec rear tires.
05-09-2015, 02:18 PM
#917
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Max, keep an eye out for your fender liner because your caster is much higher now.
I'm having those adjustable thrust arm bushings installed to bring caster back into spec after we wore a hole into the fender liner
I'm having those adjustable thrust arm bushings installed to bring caster back into spec after we wore a hole into the fender liner
05-09-2015, 02:22 PM
#918
Three Wheelin'
As for the rotors. Are you guys saying your rear rotors are shiny looking as well?
05-09-2015, 02:38 PM
#919
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Yeah, rear rotors are still in great shape. Any wear on your fender liner? Check the passenger side. I think it's from those 2 hairpin left handers on the west side
05-09-2015, 09:04 PM
#920
Pagid RS29
Had a first day on the RS 29's.
Initially I found them awful! The first 50% of brake pedal felt like it was doing nothing. For the first two 20min sessions I was really thrown off by the "I'm pressing the pedal but not slowing down feeling".
Seems like it's a matter of them breaking in. By the third session the bite seemed much more linear and by the end of the day I found they were great and easy to modulate.
Haven't tried others but certainly compared to stock they have much less initial bite - particularly when not broken in.
Was running Endless fluid too and noticed no fade.
Initially I found them awful! The first 50% of brake pedal felt like it was doing nothing. For the first two 20min sessions I was really thrown off by the "I'm pressing the pedal but not slowing down feeling".
Seems like it's a matter of them breaking in. By the third session the bite seemed much more linear and by the end of the day I found they were great and easy to modulate.
Haven't tried others but certainly compared to stock they have much less initial bite - particularly when not broken in.
Was running Endless fluid too and noticed no fade.
05-09-2015, 09:22 PM
#921
Three Wheelin'
Yes, just checked. Hole on the passenger side, and about to be a hole on the driver's side. Is it something to worry about? It seems like it shouldn't be a big deal?
05-09-2015, 09:29 PM
#922
Rennlist Member
You'll find that the Trofeo R requires 3+ degrees negative camber to work to its maximum potential, as the tire has camber across the tread width, unlike any other DOT tire.
05-09-2015, 10:27 PM
#923
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
-3.0 all around?
05-09-2015, 11:35 PM
#924
Three Wheelin'
What's the fix?
05-10-2015, 12:01 AM
#925
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3/...l#post12199793
post 766, 771-774
Tom is installing them right now for me. However, it turns out that some custom shims need to be made for these to fit properly on the 991. Tom is sending my OEM bushings to RSS to have them build their own shims for future customers, but is having some made for me by a machine shop.
post 766, 771-774
Tom is installing them right now for me. However, it turns out that some custom shims need to be made for these to fit properly on the 991. Tom is sending my OEM bushings to RSS to have them build their own shims for future customers, but is having some made for me by a machine shop.
05-10-2015, 12:06 AM
#926
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: West Vancouver and San Francisco
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https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3/...l#post12199793
post 766, 771-774
Tom is installing them right now for me. However, it turns out that some custom shims need to be made for these to fit properly on the 991. Tom is sending my OEM bushings to RSS to have them build their own shims for future customers, but is having some made for me by a machine shop.
post 766, 771-774
Tom is installing them right now for me. However, it turns out that some custom shims need to be made for these to fit properly on the 991. Tom is sending my OEM bushings to RSS to have them build their own shims for future customers, but is having some made for me by a machine shop.
05-10-2015, 12:09 AM
#927
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Be wary of damaging your tires, though. Take a look at what I've circled in red. You don't want that gouging into your tire:
05-11-2015, 12:43 PM
#929
Intermediate
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: ATLANTA, GA
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Guys-
I'm new to all of this, but i have a 991 GT3 that i,ve tracked 2400 miles out of 3,000 on car and an RS SEPT build. I have learned a LOT by reading this particular forum by OrthoJoe - thanks and great job. I think i'd like to go more negative on the camber b/c from what i read and from what y'all are telling me - it can improve handling and traction but at the cost of faster tire wear (which i can live with). That said, i am a finance guy and know very little about mechanical engineering - except i like DIY stuff (satisfying). I didn't think the CL wheel change was a problem - and thats the extent of my 'experience' (lol). That said, can someone explain to me how exactly to change it (without shims) and just as importantly WHY it helps - meaning what is the engineering behind the degrees/angle - what's it adjusting on the car? and therefore why do you guys have more negative on front versus back? I've read that stock is -1.4 to -1.5 all four corners...and i was thinking of starting slowly (changing to -2.0 on all 4) to see if i can actually feel a difference on track. I know this is a basic question, but figured that was one of the reasons behind the forum and no doubt you guys know more than me! Don't know if it matters, but my home track is HEAVY right turns (Road ATL). My knowledge base on Toe and Caster is ZERO too, but i'll tackle that later....what i do know is that i like to go fast. Thx in advance, Richard
I'm new to all of this, but i have a 991 GT3 that i,ve tracked 2400 miles out of 3,000 on car and an RS SEPT build. I have learned a LOT by reading this particular forum by OrthoJoe - thanks and great job. I think i'd like to go more negative on the camber b/c from what i read and from what y'all are telling me - it can improve handling and traction but at the cost of faster tire wear (which i can live with). That said, i am a finance guy and know very little about mechanical engineering - except i like DIY stuff (satisfying). I didn't think the CL wheel change was a problem - and thats the extent of my 'experience' (lol). That said, can someone explain to me how exactly to change it (without shims) and just as importantly WHY it helps - meaning what is the engineering behind the degrees/angle - what's it adjusting on the car? and therefore why do you guys have more negative on front versus back? I've read that stock is -1.4 to -1.5 all four corners...and i was thinking of starting slowly (changing to -2.0 on all 4) to see if i can actually feel a difference on track. I know this is a basic question, but figured that was one of the reasons behind the forum and no doubt you guys know more than me! Don't know if it matters, but my home track is HEAVY right turns (Road ATL). My knowledge base on Toe and Caster is ZERO too, but i'll tackle that later....what i do know is that i like to go fast. Thx in advance, Richard
05-11-2015, 03:13 PM
#930
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Guys-
I'm new to all of this, but i have a 991 GT3 that i,ve tracked 2400 miles out of 3,000 on car and an RS SEPT build. I have learned a LOT by reading this particular forum by OrthoJoe - thanks and great job. I think i'd like to go more negative on the camber b/c from what i read and from what y'all are telling me - it can improve handling and traction but at the cost of faster tire wear (which i can live with). That said, i am a finance guy and know very little about mechanical engineering - except i like DIY stuff (satisfying). I didn't think the CL wheel change was a problem - and thats the extent of my 'experience' (lol). That said, can someone explain to me how exactly to change it (without shims) and just as importantly WHY it helps - meaning what is the engineering behind the degrees/angle - what's it adjusting on the car? and therefore why do you guys have more negative on front versus back? I've read that stock is -1.4 to -1.5 all four corners...and i was thinking of starting slowly (changing to -2.0 on all 4) to see if i can actually feel a difference on track. I know this is a basic question, but figured that was one of the reasons behind the forum and no doubt you guys know more than me! Don't know if it matters, but my home track is HEAVY right turns (Road ATL). My knowledge base on Toe and Caster is ZERO too, but i'll tackle that later....what i do know is that i like to go fast. Thx in advance, Richard
I'm new to all of this, but i have a 991 GT3 that i,ve tracked 2400 miles out of 3,000 on car and an RS SEPT build. I have learned a LOT by reading this particular forum by OrthoJoe - thanks and great job. I think i'd like to go more negative on the camber b/c from what i read and from what y'all are telling me - it can improve handling and traction but at the cost of faster tire wear (which i can live with). That said, i am a finance guy and know very little about mechanical engineering - except i like DIY stuff (satisfying). I didn't think the CL wheel change was a problem - and thats the extent of my 'experience' (lol). That said, can someone explain to me how exactly to change it (without shims) and just as importantly WHY it helps - meaning what is the engineering behind the degrees/angle - what's it adjusting on the car? and therefore why do you guys have more negative on front versus back? I've read that stock is -1.4 to -1.5 all four corners...and i was thinking of starting slowly (changing to -2.0 on all 4) to see if i can actually feel a difference on track. I know this is a basic question, but figured that was one of the reasons behind the forum and no doubt you guys know more than me! Don't know if it matters, but my home track is HEAVY right turns (Road ATL). My knowledge base on Toe and Caster is ZERO too, but i'll tackle that later....what i do know is that i like to go fast. Thx in advance, Richard
You want more negative camber to account for increased wear on the outer edge of the tire from hard cornering. Increased camber should actually IMPROVE tire wear and life, not decrease it. If you're outer edges are wearing, in general you want more negative camber.
There is no set rule on what camber works for everyone. It is different for everyone based on track, skill level, driving style, and type of tire. In the past, most setups like less negative camber in the rear, not more. I'm setting the car up with -2.9 on all 4 corners running trofeo R next.