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^ Thanks for the info, I don't mind some squealing of the pads ... fits the character of the car.
BTW, on the TPM question, I've found my TPM pressures to usually be within ~1 psi of both of my analog mechanical gauges. I routinely keep an eye on tire pressures when on track, to see the relationship between pressures and car behavior, to know when pressures are high enough that I can start to really lean on the car, and for early detection of tire leaks (rare, but it does happen).
^ Thanks for the info, I don't mind some squealing of the pads ... fits the character of the car.
BTW, on the TPM question, I've found my TPM pressures to usually be within ~1 psi of both of my analog mechanical gauges. I routinely keep an eye on tire pressures when on track, to see the relationship between pressures and car behavior, to know when pressures are high enough that I can start to really lean on the car, and for early detection of tire leaks (rare, but it does happen).
Porsche Strikes Again! Turns out my trusty analog gauge is no longer trustworthy after comparing it to a bunch of others. That would explain my consistent error of about 2.5 psi. TPMS was correct all along.
Porsche Strikes Again! Turns out my trusty analog gauge is no longer trustworthy after comparing it to a bunch of others. That would explain my consistent error of about 2.5 psi. TPMS was correct all along.
And some have been known to be off by much more than 2.5 psi. Always good to routinely cross-check your guage(s) against other gauges.
Joe, I been thinking a lot about changing the caliper bolts to studs. Would this require a brake line change or is there enough slack? thanks
You can keep the brake lines. The hard brake lines just need to be released by removing 2 bolts on the brackets that are holding the hard lines down. There is enough slack once you release the brackets.
And some have been known to be off by much more than 2.5 psi. Always good to routinely cross-check your guage(s) against other gauges.
I've had a bunch of the expensive oil-filled analog gauges and they tend to be horribly inaccurate. I find that the cheap digital gauges are much better (kinda the way my expensive mechanical IWC never ran as well as a $5 Timex).
Those look like pad deposits to me. Are you still on PFC11? Go look for Tom (competition autowerks) in garage 2. He's out there today and can take a look for you.
Those look like pad deposits to me. Are you still on PFC11? Go look for Tom (competition autowerks) in garage 2. He's out there today and can take a look for you.
I thought it was normal. Had it on all cars. By the way, which gt3 was yours? I was in red one that "broke down"
The blue one. Despite what Tom (super nice guy) reported to Joe , I was running 3:33 on totally shot tires (6 days, no tread left on the inside fronts). Last session was consistent 3:36s with a passenger and sliding all over the place. Braking was still pretty strong to the end - I just don't like the feel. I'll probably leave the pads and rotors on, but order the setup Joe has and bring it with me, in case I need to do a "quick" change. (Maybe Tom will be able TH on 6/6-7)? I know I'm losing time on turn in speed. Still getting used to how fast I can enter a turn.
The blue one. Despite what Tom (super nice guy) reported to Joe , I was running 3:33 on totally shot tires (6 days, no tread left on the inside fronts). Last session was consistent 3:36s with a passenger and sliding all over the place. Braking was still pretty strong to the end - I just don't like the feel. I'll probably leave the pads and rotors on, but order the setup Joe has and bring it with me, in case I need to do a "quick" change. (Maybe Tom will be able TH on 6/6-7)? I know I'm losing time on turn in speed. Still getting used to how fast I can enter a turn.
Hey man, 3:26 is totally believable for any of us!
Tom is the man, though.
Once the tires are heat cycled out, all bets are off. Lap times for the car have been sub-par the last 2 times it's been out there. The K spec tires still have tread on them with 6 track days/657 track miles/27 heat cycles. Grip was never as good as N spec (1.2 vs 1.3G) and dropped 1.0G after 18 heat cycles. I would advise against getting K spec MPSC2 if you can. Stick with N spec. Having tread left does me no good when grip is worse than plain street tires. The tires are coming off and getting swapped to Trofeo Rs!
Hey man, 3:26 is totally believable for any of us!
Tom is the man, though.
Once the tires are heat cycled out, all bets are off. Lap times for the car have been sub-par the last 2 times it's been out there. The K spec tires still have tread on them with 6 track days/657 track miles/27 heat cycles. Grip was never as good as N spec (1.2 vs 1.3G) and dropped 1.0G after 18 heat cycles. I would advise against getting K spec MPSC2 if you can. Stick with N spec. Having tread left does me no good when grip is worse than plain street tires. The tires are coming off and getting swapped to Trofeo Rs!
I'm going to have Alekshop put Trofeo Rs on next, just to try. I did like the MPSC2s, though.
p.s. The Able chevy guys were easily putting down low 3:20s. They were smokin' fast.
05-03-2015, 10:53 AM
