Orthojoe's track build journal
#886
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 13,422
Likes: 4,607
From: Mid-Atlantic (on land, not in the middle of the ocean)
^ Thanks for the info, I don't mind some squealing of the pads ... fits the character of the car.
BTW, on the TPM question, I've found my TPM pressures to usually be within ~1 psi of both of my analog mechanical gauges. I routinely keep an eye on tire pressures when on track, to see the relationship between pressures and car behavior, to know when pressures are high enough that I can start to really lean on the car, and for early detection of tire leaks (rare, but it does happen).
BTW, on the TPM question, I've found my TPM pressures to usually be within ~1 psi of both of my analog mechanical gauges. I routinely keep an eye on tire pressures when on track, to see the relationship between pressures and car behavior, to know when pressures are high enough that I can start to really lean on the car, and for early detection of tire leaks (rare, but it does happen).
#887
^ Thanks for the info, I don't mind some squealing of the pads ... fits the character of the car.
BTW, on the TPM question, I've found my TPM pressures to usually be within ~1 psi of both of my analog mechanical gauges. I routinely keep an eye on tire pressures when on track, to see the relationship between pressures and car behavior, to know when pressures are high enough that I can start to really lean on the car, and for early detection of tire leaks (rare, but it does happen).
BTW, on the TPM question, I've found my TPM pressures to usually be within ~1 psi of both of my analog mechanical gauges. I routinely keep an eye on tire pressures when on track, to see the relationship between pressures and car behavior, to know when pressures are high enough that I can start to really lean on the car, and for early detection of tire leaks (rare, but it does happen).
#888
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 13,422
Likes: 4,607
From: Mid-Atlantic (on land, not in the middle of the ocean)
And some have been known to be off by much more than 2.5 psi. Always good to routinely cross-check your guage(s) against other gauges.
#890
You can keep the brake lines. The hard brake lines just need to be released by removing 2 bolts on the brackets that are holding the hard lines down. There is enough slack once you release the brackets.
#891
I've had a bunch of the expensive oil-filled analog gauges and they tend to be horribly inaccurate. I find that the cheap digital gauges are much better (kinda the way my expensive mechanical IWC never ran as well as a $5 Timex).
#892
Lots of GT3s and Thunderhill 5 mile today.
My brakes look to have odd wear. Thoughts?
Fronts have glazed looking lines. Weird wear on the outside.
rears are shiny looking. After 5 track days, pads have almost no wear.
My brakes look to have odd wear. Thoughts?
Fronts have glazed looking lines. Weird wear on the outside.
rears are shiny looking. After 5 track days, pads have almost no wear.
#894
#897
The blue one. Despite what Tom (super nice guy) reported to Joe , I was running 3:33 on totally shot tires (6 days, no tread left on the inside fronts). Last session was consistent 3:36s with a passenger and sliding all over the place. Braking was still pretty strong to the end - I just don't like the feel. I'll probably leave the pads and rotors on, but order the setup Joe has and bring it with me, in case I need to do a "quick" change. (Maybe Tom will be able TH on 6/6-7)? I know I'm losing time on turn in speed. Still getting used to how fast I can enter a turn.
#898
The blue one. Despite what Tom (super nice guy) reported to Joe , I was running 3:33 on totally shot tires (6 days, no tread left on the inside fronts). Last session was consistent 3:36s with a passenger and sliding all over the place. Braking was still pretty strong to the end - I just don't like the feel. I'll probably leave the pads and rotors on, but order the setup Joe has and bring it with me, in case I need to do a "quick" change. (Maybe Tom will be able TH on 6/6-7)? I know I'm losing time on turn in speed. Still getting used to how fast I can enter a turn.
Tom is the man, though.
Once the tires are heat cycled out, all bets are off. Lap times for the car have been sub-par the last 2 times it's been out there. The K spec tires still have tread on them with 6 track days/657 track miles/27 heat cycles. Grip was never as good as N spec (1.2 vs 1.3G) and dropped 1.0G after 18 heat cycles. I would advise against getting K spec MPSC2 if you can. Stick with N spec. Having tread left does me no good when grip is worse than plain street tires. The tires are coming off and getting swapped to Trofeo Rs!
#899
Hey man, 3:26 is totally believable for any of us!
Tom is the man, though.
Once the tires are heat cycled out, all bets are off. Lap times for the car have been sub-par the last 2 times it's been out there. The K spec tires still have tread on them with 6 track days/657 track miles/27 heat cycles. Grip was never as good as N spec (1.2 vs 1.3G) and dropped 1.0G after 18 heat cycles. I would advise against getting K spec MPSC2 if you can. Stick with N spec. Having tread left does me no good when grip is worse than plain street tires. The tires are coming off and getting swapped to Trofeo Rs!
Tom is the man, though.
Once the tires are heat cycled out, all bets are off. Lap times for the car have been sub-par the last 2 times it's been out there. The K spec tires still have tread on them with 6 track days/657 track miles/27 heat cycles. Grip was never as good as N spec (1.2 vs 1.3G) and dropped 1.0G after 18 heat cycles. I would advise against getting K spec MPSC2 if you can. Stick with N spec. Having tread left does me no good when grip is worse than plain street tires. The tires are coming off and getting swapped to Trofeo Rs!
p.s. The Able chevy guys were easily putting down low 3:20s. They were smokin' fast.