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My oil temp never goes above 9:00 even in Chicago stop and go and summer temps of close to 100F. Two things are possible reason for your high temp:
- cooling fan for front oil cooler is not running or running on low. Most likely reason is a bad ballast resistor for the fan. It looks like a ceramic pug and sits close to the top of the cooler in the front forward passenger wheel housing. These resistors tend to disintegrate over time. It's an easy fix but hard to get to. With the oil hot and engine running, you should feel hot air being dumped in front of your front passenger wheel.
- your oil thermostat does not open. Your front right side behind the headlight above the cooler should get warm to the touch from the oil lines when the thermostat is open. You can also look at your oil temp as you start out. You will see your oil temp rising to about 8:00 and then drop back down for a few minutes when the thermostat opens before it climbs up again
Your low oil pressure is most likely due to the very hot oil. Pressure tends to be lower with hotter oil as viscosity changes.
My oil temp never goes above 9:00 even in Chicago stop and go and summer temps of close to 100F. Two things are possible reason for your high temp:
- cooling fan for front oil cooler is not running or running on low. Most likely reason is a bad ballast resistor for the fan. It looks like a ceramic pug and sits close to the top of the cooler in the front forward passenger wheel housing. These resistors tend to disintegrate over time. It's an easy fix but hard to get to. With the oil hot and engine running, you should feel hot air being dumped in front of your front passenger wheel.
- your oil thermostat does not open. Your front right side behind the headlight above the cooler should get warm to the touch from the oil lines when the thermostat is open. You can also look at your oil temp as you start out. You will see your oil temp rising to about 8:00 and then drop back down for a few minutes when the thermostat opens before it climbs up again
Your low oil pressure is most likely due to the very hot oil. Pressure tends to be lower with hotter oil as viscosity changes.
Agree with all. Add to that being the oil cooler temp sensor signal is passed through / monitored by the CCU. If, like mine, the CCU is not fully functioning, then the operating signal back to the cooler fan may not exist - low/high speed will not switch on. You can always test the fan is actually working (low and high speed) via jumping the fan relay. For added security and confidence I added a high speed fan override switch below the dash/console. Made a huge difference when stuck in long hot French summer vacation traffic jams.
Once you sorted out why the oil temp goes high, there is also a small reversible mod you can do to "trick" the system and lets the fan come on earlier. The instructions are on this forum but it involves putting a small resistor across the plug. I build a small dongle with two plugs. If someone in the future wants to reverse it, they just need to unplug it. It's install and forget. However, the override switch works too.
Thanks again guys....
Took a drive today, 97F out there....got the temp up and up. Got to 10o'clock position and drove her home.
In my driveway I parked and went to the oil cooler fan to feel if I was getting a lot of heat.
First the fan did not sound like it was spinning very fast but it was blowing.....cold air. NOT hot.
So, I'm guessing a bad thermostat. Glad I've got that figured out.
With oil temp at 10:00, your oil cooler fan should be on high, the air being dumped in front of your right front wheel should be hot, and your right front fender above the wheel should be warm to the touch.
If that's not the case, your oil thermostat did not open and oil is not circling through the oil cooler. It's a relatively easy fix since the thermostat is very accessible. It is located in front of the right rear wheel behind the shark fin.
You can replace the thermostat internals without having to break open the oil lines. While you are in there, take a look at the various oil lines in that area and see, if they need to be addressed.
I wouldn't drive the car for long with the oil temp that high. It's not great for the engine.
In relation to metal trim, some part numbers end with 70K, which I understand is black...is that the standard somewhat satin black that is common on all of these?. If you order the non-70k part number, what color do you get? Primer?
In relation to metal trim, some part numbers end with 70K, which I understand is black...is that the standard somewhat satin black that is common on all of these?. If you order the non-70k part number, what color do you get? Primer?
I don't believe so. 70K I believe is part of the part number and the only way it comes. The G body cars had either chrome or black anodized later painted black and all had a specific part number for either finish.
In preparation for the 993 roof spoiler light I removed my rear wiper and center light box. Deleted the rear deck speakers too and insulated the holes while I had it off, will probably strip and rewrap the rear shelf as the vinyl tore just a bit.
Where do the wires to the center light box run from? Seem to come through a hole in the seal at the top. I unzipped the headliner but couldn't find them in the roof. Is the inner window seal removable?
Secondary question. I got the FVD glass wiper delete plug and RTVd it on, but it didn't fit right, has a small chip in the surface and I'm just not happy with it. Does anyone have a good recommendation? I'll eventually put euro glass on but for now I'll have to cope with the Black center brake light surround and a wiper hole plug. Won't bug me too much though, tint is going on tomorrow.
Last edited by ShocknAwe; Jul 23, 2025 at 09:54 PM.
Wires run up through the window seal and there is a brown jumper ground that connects to the Rear window defrost wiring. Both should come out of the seal at the top by the light. Can't help you with the plug.
Wires run up through the window seal and there is a brown jumper ground that connects to the Rear window defrost wiring. Both should come out of the seal at the top by the light. Can't help you with the plug.
Can I pull the window seal out? What's the best way to get to the wiring. From the comment I'm assuming you mean the wires run UP from the rear deck wiring harness probably on the passenger side?
Secondary question. I got the FVD glass wiper delete plug and RTVd it on, but it didn't fit right, has a small chip in the surface and I'm just not happy with it. Does anyone have a good recommendation? I'll eventually put euro glass on but for now I'll have to cope with the Black center brake light surround and a wiper hole plug. Won't bug me too much though, tint is going on tomorrow.
I just went through the wiper plug hunt myself recently. The best one turned out to be an original 944 plug that I picked up on ebay for pretty cheap. (e.g. https://www.ebay.com/itm/154803987430 ).
I tried one from Carbone, but wasn't overly impressed. Cheap plastic, didn't fit very well, and used o-rings to seal that kept slipping out of place.
I also got one from Z Spec Design (Z Spec Plug ) that was actually pretty nice. I just preferred the look of the Porsche one best.
None of them were properly sized to stay centered in the hole in the windshield, so I ended up 3d printing a plastic washer to keep it centered. Worked perfectly.
I was recently able to re-unite my 964 that I bought 5 years ago with the original tool kit that came with the car. YAY!!!
However, inside the kit was this odd looking part that I'm sure does not belong in the kit. The question becomes, is it from the car and if so what the heck is it?
One end has RH threads and the other has LH threads. Overall length is about 45 mm.
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