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VW/Audi 07K (2.5L 20V I5) Swap Thread

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Old 08-22-2019, 11:25 PM
  #1456  
hinton
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Originally Posted by Cjar
600-700whp? For that kind of power $20k is probably in the rear view mirror... I’m targeting 450whp and, granted I’m probably going a bit overkill on the OEM plus mentality, I’ll pass $20k before too long. Could probably cut that back some if you are building a racer and can skip comfort and drivability.
Im going to be between 8-9k for my NA swap. Granted that’s using the Gallardo manifold and all AN lines / fittings etc. so it could be done cheaper. I’m doing it right but also on a budget.

I’ve got $400 in a turbo, $100 in an intercooler, I’ll have roughly $400 in wastegate, blow off valve and piping. Add another $100 for misc. crap and I should be under $10k for a turbo build that maxes out the factory fuel system at whatever we find that to be.

A nicer turbo would be more like $1800, a fully built engine probably $6k, a built transaxle likely $3k, fuel system another $1500, and giant exhaust another $1k. Obviously I’m missing things, but you quickly add another $10k.

At the same time, a lot of that goes for the LS as well. You can make more power on the stock internals, but the fuel system costs more, the exhaust costs more, the base engine costs more etc. 6 of one, half dozen of the other.
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Old 08-22-2019, 11:42 PM
  #1457  
Droops83
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Originally Posted by hinton
Im going to be between 8-9k for my NA swap. Granted that’s using the Gallardo manifold and all AN lines / fittings etc. so it could be done cheaper. I’m doing it right but also on a budget.
What's the plan for a turbo with the Gallardo manifold? I imagine there are tubing housings out there with a V-band inlet that will bolt up. The SPA cast-iron manifold looks to be such a simple and cost-effective solution and my existing Tial F38 waste gate would even bolt onto it, but now that I have seen the Gallardo manifold it would be hard to resist doing that!
Old 08-23-2019, 12:09 AM
  #1458  
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Originally Posted by Droops83
What's the plan for a turbo with the Gallardo manifold? I imagine there are tubing housings out there with a V-band inlet that will bolt up. The SPA cast-iron manifold looks to be such a simple and cost-effective solution and my existing Tial F38 waste gate would even bolt onto it, but now that I have seen the Gallardo manifold it would be hard to resist doing that!
The spa manifold is great for packaging and is certainly more cost effective / less fab work. But like you said, the Gallardo manifold is just a thing of beauty!

I am using a Holset HX35 turbo, which is roughly equivalent to the Garrett GT3582. I purchased a .82 T3 turbine housing to run with it, so I will just fabricate a section of exhaust to go from my V-Band on the Gallardo manifold to a standard T3 flange. It will sit in between the engine and radiator, with the exhaust being fender exit. Definitely not for the faint of heart, but should be really cool!

FYI, the Garrett G25-660 that Alan is using has a V-Band inlet and outlet on the turbine housing, which makes mounting a snap. He is using a T3 flange to V-Band Adapter to go between the turbo and spa manifold.
Old 08-23-2019, 02:00 AM
  #1459  
alxdgr8
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Originally Posted by hinton
The guy I’m talking to worked for Iroz, and on his next build is bumping it to 10:1, whatever that is worth. Different strokes for different folks. If I go the RS3 route it’s strictly because I find a silly deal on them and it fits my budget theme. Regardless, I don’t think I’ll be looking for more than 400whp anytime soon, as that’s what my widebody build is for.
Guessing you're talking to Zach?
The pistons were machined to get it down to a safer 9:1 for a non-DI engine.
Old 08-23-2019, 04:02 AM
  #1460  
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Originally Posted by hinton
The spa manifold is great for packaging and is certainly more cost effective / less fab work. But like you said, the Gallardo manifold is just a thing of beauty!

I am using a Holset HX35 turbo, which is roughly equivalent to the Garrett GT3582. I purchased a .82 T3 turbine housing to run with it, so I will just fabricate a section of exhaust to go from my V-Band on the Gallardo manifold to a standard T3 flange. It will sit in between the engine and radiator, with the exhaust being fender exit. Definitely not for the faint of heart, but should be really cool!

FYI, the Garrett G25-660 that Alan is using has a V-Band inlet and outlet on the turbine housing, which makes mounting a snap. He is using a T3 flange to V-Band Adapter to go between the turbo and spa manifold.
Why the old holset? a newer GTX3582 would make a killer setup.

Or the new GT30-770 from Garret.
Old 08-23-2019, 06:00 AM
  #1461  
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Originally Posted by alxdgr8
Guessing you're talking to Zach?
The pistons were machined to get it down to a safer 9:1 for a non-DI engine.
Yeah... Thanks for chiming in, good to know!
Old 08-23-2019, 06:03 AM
  #1462  
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Originally Posted by ealoken
Why the old holset? a newer GTX3582 would make a killer setup.

Or the new GT30-770 from Garret.
Cost... I’ve got $400 in my Holset and new exhaust housing. They are surprisingly good performers, albeit antiquated technology compared to the G Series and GTX Gen 2. I plan on doing a dyno comparison between me and Alan’s car. G25-660 vs HX35.
Old 08-23-2019, 06:07 AM
  #1463  
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Originally Posted by hinton
Cost... I’ve got $400 in my Holset and new exhaust housing. They are surprisingly good performers, albeit antiquated technology compared to the G Series and GTX Gen 2. I plan on doing a dyno comparison between me and Alan’s car. G25-660 vs HX35.
ok

when / if my turbo engine goes out, im goinh the 07k.

Keep up the good work
Old 08-23-2019, 10:31 AM
  #1464  
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Originally Posted by Cjar
That’s true. While larger bores are less susceptible to knock than smaller bores, with modern electronics with knock sensors, variable cam timing and good fuel it makes perfect sense. Makes me feel better about picking 9.5:1 for sure.
guessing a typo but smaller bores are much more knock resistant than large bores.

smaller chamber (bore) = less time for the flame front to spread to the walls, needs less advance.
larger chamber (bore) = more time to hit the walls, allows for the pressure spike of knock/det on the other side, requires less advance to not knock.
Old 08-23-2019, 12:43 PM
  #1465  
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Been a lot going on since my last visit . I have a lot of catching up to do .
Old 08-26-2019, 08:08 PM
  #1466  
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Something on the door step today when I got home . Alan , did you ever list the fittings and hose to connect the clutch master to the slave ?
Old 08-26-2019, 08:53 PM
  #1467  
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Originally Posted by JWebber
fittings and hose to connect the clutch master to the slave
+1
Also curious
Old 08-27-2019, 02:00 PM
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RoyaleWithCheese
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What's the part number on the slave we need to use as well?

Finding things in this thread is getting harder and harder as it grows. Is there a spot we could put a spreadsheet or something, maybe the Boost Bros site or a shared google doc, that lists the additional parts needed for the swap?
Old 08-27-2019, 02:13 PM
  #1469  
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Originally Posted by RoyaleWithCheese
Is there a spot we could put a spreadsheet or something, maybe the Boost Bros site or a shared google doc, that lists the additional parts needed for the swap?
I have a sheet I've put together with costs for my own sanity and budgeting purposes, but I'll put some part numbers into it & share it when it's finished.

Edit: Also, maybe @alxdgr8 can add it to the first post on page 1 so new users can find it easily?
Old 08-27-2019, 03:49 PM
  #1470  
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Originally Posted by JWebber
Something on the door step today when I got home . Alan , did you ever list the fittings and hose to connect the clutch master to the slave ?
Joey, here's what I used from master to slave (from this post a while back):

- Solstice GXP hydraulic TOB (24234308)
- Kappadapt Stainless Clutch Fitting adapter to -4AN with 2 o-rings (CHK101-2)
- Jegs 635158, 24” stainless braided Teflon lined hydraulic hose with -4AN ends (one straight, one 90)
- Earl’s AT9919BFEERL, Adapter M12 x 1.0 to -4AN
- Stock Porsche 944 master cylinder


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