VW/Audi 07K (2.5L 20V I5) Swap Thread
#1382
Rennlist Member
#1383
#1384
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#1386
Rennlist Member
😂
Speaking of bolts... included in the bellhousing hardware package are longer flywheel bolts. I recommend using these instead of the ones that SPEC sends because of the stack up thickness added by my pilot bearing adapter. I also suggest using some method to prevent these bolts from backing out of the crankshaft holes, whether it is a safety wire (you’ll need to drill the heads), or Loctite blue (not red). I’ll probably just start with some Loctite blue on mine.
Speaking of bolts... included in the bellhousing hardware package are longer flywheel bolts. I recommend using these instead of the ones that SPEC sends because of the stack up thickness added by my pilot bearing adapter. I also suggest using some method to prevent these bolts from backing out of the crankshaft holes, whether it is a safety wire (you’ll need to drill the heads), or Loctite blue (not red). I’ll probably just start with some Loctite blue on mine.
#1388
Rennlist Member
For the one m10 (class 10.9) hex head bolt that fastens the driver side engine mount bracket: 55-60 ft-lb.
For the flywheel bolts I provided, which are m10 x 1.0 (class 12.9), I recommend using the VW factory flywheel bolt torque spec. My guess is around 64 ft-lb.
Note that the stainless steel bolts should not be torqued to the same values as class 10.9 bolts (that would break their heads off). I would basically just snug them up and then maybe an addition 1/8 turn. Optionally, use Loctite blue to prevent them from backing out. I provided SS bolts for cosmetic reasons, in places where the loads are much lower.
#1389
I would not suggest loctite on the flywheel bolts, factory spec is 60Nm (44 lb-ft) +90 degrees for both Jetta 6-bolt and TTRS 8-bolt. Don’t forget to put in the magnetic pickup ring and diamond disc (friction washers) on the TTRS version.
#1390
Rennlist Member
Thanks for that flywheel torque spec. Why no Loctite? The reason I’m suggesting it is because the 6 bolt interface seems to be a known issue on these engines; flywheel bolts come loose and break (I think).
#1391
The reason high power 07K 6-bolt flywheels come loose is the six bolts and crank-flywheel friction surfaces are having their torque carrying capability exceeded, stretching the bolts out. Loctite won’t prevent stretching the bolts. This is why the TTRS went to 8 bolts plus friction washers.
If the stock six bolts aren’t going to cut it for the turbo guys then I suggest ARP high strength bolts (ECS and IE carry them). ARP includes higher torque spec (which I cannot locate right now of course). Personally I am going with TTRS crank plus ARP bolts, just to be safe (although the forged crank itself is also a reason).
If the stock six bolts aren’t going to cut it for the turbo guys then I suggest ARP high strength bolts (ECS and IE carry them). ARP includes higher torque spec (which I cannot locate right now of course). Personally I am going with TTRS crank plus ARP bolts, just to be safe (although the forged crank itself is also a reason).
#1392
Rennlist Member
The reason high power 07K 6-bolt flywheels come loose is the six bolts and crank-flywheel friction surfaces are having their torque carrying capability exceeded, stretching the bolts out. Loctite won’t prevent stretching the bolts. This is why the TTRS went to 8 bolts plus friction washers.
If the stock six bolts aren’t going to cut it for the turbo guys then I suggest ARP high strength bolts (ECS and IE carry them). ARP includes higher torque spec (which I cannot locate right now of course). Personally I am going with TTRS crank plus ARP bolts, just to be safe (although the forged crank itself is also a reason).
If the stock six bolts aren’t going to cut it for the turbo guys then I suggest ARP high strength bolts (ECS and IE carry them). ARP includes higher torque spec (which I cannot locate right now of course). Personally I am going with TTRS crank plus ARP bolts, just to be safe (although the forged crank itself is also a reason).