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Thanks, I’ve seen that schematic. It makes my head hurt, so I’m trying to find a simpler way to plumb my engine 🙂. It seems like for our immediate needs (get it running for track testing and don’t worry about cabin heat) it would make sense for us to just connect those two barbs I circled. Agree?
The main thing we need to figure out is the thermostat bypass. Basically, we have the tstat outlet and bypass pipe outlet on the side of the engine, and the new fitting Alan designed on the back. Do we just need to run the bypass pipe in its stock location, and connect it to a port on the rear fitting?
Thanks, I’ve seen that schematic. It makes my head hurt, so I’m trying to find a simpler way to plumb my engine 🙂. It seems like for our immediate needs (get it running for track testing and don’t worry about cabin heat) it would make sense for us to just connect those two barbs I circled. Agree?
Originally Posted by hinton
The main thing we need to figure out is the thermostat bypass. Basically, we have the tstat outlet and bypass pipe outlet on the side of the engine, and the new fitting Alan designed on the back. Do we just need to run the bypass pipe in its stock location, and connect it to a port on the rear fitting?
If you are skipping the heater core then you would just connect the two pipes Alan circled, which is the bypass. If you want heat you put the heater core inline, but with a tee and core bypass circuit since the 944 controls heat with a flow control valve (but we cannot stop the bypass flow).
If you are skipping the heater core then you would just connect the two pipes Alan circled, which is the bypass. If you want heat you put the heater core inline, but with a tee and core bypass circuit since the 944 controls heat with a flow control valve (but we cannot stop the bypass flow).
If you are skipping the heater core then you would just connect the two pipes Alan circled, which is the bypass. If you want heat you put the heater core inline, but with a tee and core bypass circuit since the 944 controls heat with a flow control valve (but we cannot stop the bypass flow).
Thanks, Craig. I’m not going to mess with heat for now, but just for future reference, wouldn’t something like this do the trick without using a tee? I used this part on my LS swap, and just hooked up the vacuum port on it to the heater control vacuum port on the firewall. Worked perfectly. It always allows coolant to flow, whether it’s going through the heater core or not.
Anyone know what this port on the thermostat housing is for? From the factory, it had a ~1/2” steel hard line attached. I’m wondering if we can either plug the hole or cap the line.
Anyone know what this port on the thermostat housing is for? From the factory, it had a ~1/2” steel hard line attached. I’m wondering if we can either plug the hole or cap the line.
That is the fill port, it needs to be connected to the nipple on the bottom of the expansion tank.
Thanks, Craig. I’m not going to mess with heat for now, but just for future reference, wouldn’t something like this do the trick without using a tee? I used this part on my LS swap, and just hooked up the vacuum port on it to the heater control vacuum port on the firewall. Worked perfectly. It always allows coolant to flow, whether it’s going through the heater core or not.
Originally Posted by vt951
Oh I didn’t know they were different. How about something like this one?
These would do just the trick, just need to try and find room to mount it and make sure it’s not in a high spot to cause the heater to air lock.
Anyone know what these two hose barbs (circled in green) connected to in the stock installation? The top circle is the smaller barb on the coolant flange. The bottom one is a steel tube that wraps around the engine and plugs into the thermostat housing. Just want to make sure I’ve got this coolant flange design right before I have more made...
One other option for those of you not running heat is to have a single hose/pipe from the back of the head to the left side near the stat housing, and then you can make a tee - one to the radiator and one to the bypass. This gives more room under the manifold for the tee, makes for a simpler SLS head adaptor, and you could even put your sensors here where the leak points are more accessible.
I don't know that they're different either, but if the late offset is controlled by vacuum and mine is by cable they must be. I'll investigate later. Good find!
Anyone know what this port on the thermostat housing is for? From the factory, it had a ~1/2” steel hard line attached. I’m wondering if we can either plug the hole or cap the line.
When I had a field day ripping stuff off my engine, I noticed that thing on the thermostat housing too... Any chance we can just replace that weird turn-lock thing for an AN style fitting and run another hose from there to the fill port?
When I had a field day ripping stuff off my engine, I noticed that thing on the thermostat housing too... Any chance we can just replace that weird turn-lock thing for an AN style fitting and run another hose from there to the fill port?
Maybe, I’ll ask iAbed what his plan is for that port.
* EDIT * talked to iAbed and that port is eliminated on his cast thermostat housing. He plumbs it differently for filling coolant; I will post details when I get them.
09-01-2019, 09:47 PM
