VW/Audi 07K (2.5L 20V I5) Swap Thread
#1621
Rennlist Member
Yeah it sounds good when rev'd, but I think a little bit of muffler would help it sound better/deeper at idle? Seems to like that lightweight aluminum flywheel, though!
#1622
Rennlist Member
Oil pan cost is also TBD, but I think I can safely say that we will be able to sell the complete modified upper pan and fabricated lower sump with trap doors and oil pickup for under $1k (plus upper pan core). It is a complex assembly with a lot of different manufacturing processes and high dollar fabrication labor that goes into it. So, it is more costly than I had hoped, but I think in the end will be worth it. The alternatives would be to machine the whole upper pan from billet, or develop a custom casting, but both of those would almost certainly cost even more. The sump is fairly straightforward, but requires a lot of TIG welding so it's also pretty expensive to make. We could look at MIG to reduce welding cost, but I think with the thin sheet metal it will be more likely to have leaks, so TIG seems like the better option to me.
#1623
Haha! I’ve got an “internal muffler” to install but honestly I just wanted to hear how ridiculous it would be for the first start. I’m glad I did!
#1624
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The two different pans are probably for the two different oil pumps (technically 3 different pumps but I believe the first two are very similar with a mechanical pressure switch vs the electric one on the later engines). Mike/Alan do you have a later block/pump to see if the pickup is the same? The pumps cannot be interchanged and must stick with their respective block from what I can tell.
Info on the different pumps here: http://theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.p...3089&start=100
Early Mechanical (left) vs Late Electric (right)
Info on the different pumps here: http://theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.p...3089&start=100
Early Mechanical (left) vs Late Electric (right)
#1625
See, I think it sounds great! The way Audi did it in the 80's was most likely a straight pipe from the turbo out the back/side of the car, which adds length to the whole system. The length and internal diameter of the exhaust will have a big say in the way it sounds due to resonance and vibration, which is probably why yours sounds a little.... raw, and unrefined XD
#1626
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
And FYI, if you remove your oil pump you should use the alignment tool for re-installation. Roughly $200 via Snapon, $320 on ebay.
https://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDe...temid=36820123
https://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDe...temid=36820123
#1627
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Re: Electric water pumps
Browse through Jim Green's 07k Audi 90 thread here: http://theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.p...=73&start=2650
He removed the factory water pump and went with a BMW one along with an MR2 electric power steering pump so then he's only running an alternator on the serp pulley. He has had a few BMW pumps fail so I think he was going to or has changed to a Davies Craig pump. Also, he has gone through a couple alternators presumably to over-spinning since he revs to 8200rpm now, but didn't want to change the pulley too much as to not have it charge at idle. Something to think about if anyone is thinking of going this route.
Browse through Jim Green's 07k Audi 90 thread here: http://theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.p...=73&start=2650
He removed the factory water pump and went with a BMW one along with an MR2 electric power steering pump so then he's only running an alternator on the serp pulley. He has had a few BMW pumps fail so I think he was going to or has changed to a Davies Craig pump. Also, he has gone through a couple alternators presumably to over-spinning since he revs to 8200rpm now, but didn't want to change the pulley too much as to not have it charge at idle. Something to think about if anyone is thinking of going this route.
#1628
Rennlist Member
The two different pans are probably for the two different oil pumps (technically 3 different pumps but I believe the first two are very similar with a mechanical pressure switch vs the electric one on the later engines). Mike/Alan do you have a later block/pump to see if the pickup is the same? The pumps cannot be interchanged and must stick with their respective block from what I can tell.
Info on the different pumps here: http://theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.p...3089&start=100
Early Mechanical (left) vs Late Electric (right)
Info on the different pumps here: http://theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.p...3089&start=100
Early Mechanical (left) vs Late Electric (right)
EDIT: I just ordered one of those late oil pumps (07K115105R), which came in '11 to '14 engines. So, I'll be able to verify fitment of the oil pickup tube.
Last edited by vt951; 09-26-2019 at 05:29 PM.
#1629
ALL - Asking for some help here!
There is a timing mark on the crank pulley and front main seal. They do NOT line up when #1 is at TDC. Does anyone have access to Alldata or have any idea what that timing mark is in reference to? Should it be cylinder 5? It’s like 40 degrees off when #1 is at TDC. I know I’m not crazy because we got the engine running based off me making a new mark with a paint marker when #1 was at TDC!
hoping to get an answer before lunch tomorrow so we can get the car on the dyno. Any help is much appreciated!
There is a timing mark on the crank pulley and front main seal. They do NOT line up when #1 is at TDC. Does anyone have access to Alldata or have any idea what that timing mark is in reference to? Should it be cylinder 5? It’s like 40 degrees off when #1 is at TDC. I know I’m not crazy because we got the engine running based off me making a new mark with a paint marker when #1 was at TDC!
hoping to get an answer before lunch tomorrow so we can get the car on the dyno. Any help is much appreciated!
#1630
Rennlist Member
ALL - Asking for some help here!
There is a timing mark on the crank pulley and front main seal. They do NOT line up when #1 is at TDC. Does anyone have access to Alldata or have any idea what that timing mark is in reference to? Should it be cylinder 5? It’s like 40 degrees off when #1 is at TDC. I know I’m not crazy because we got the engine running based off me making a new mark with a paint marker when #1 was at TDC!
hoping to get an answer before lunch tomorrow so we can get the car on the dyno. Any help is much appreciated!
There is a timing mark on the crank pulley and front main seal. They do NOT line up when #1 is at TDC. Does anyone have access to Alldata or have any idea what that timing mark is in reference to? Should it be cylinder 5? It’s like 40 degrees off when #1 is at TDC. I know I’m not crazy because we got the engine running based off me making a new mark with a paint marker when #1 was at TDC!
hoping to get an answer before lunch tomorrow so we can get the car on the dyno. Any help is much appreciated!
#1632
The only info I can give is a "he said-she said"; from the 07k basic facts thread on Project Pad, folks over there mentioned Cylinder #5 being the TDC reference. I can do more research after class #collegekidstuff
#1633
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Sep 2017
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Re: Electric water pumps:
I'm using a PWM electric fan controller from 'Autocool' to control mine.
Ample current capacity, and they're used regularly for that purpose, with instructions supplied.
Good feedback on their reliability (unlike Derale!), and cheaper than the Davies,Craig item.
I'm using a PWM electric fan controller from 'Autocool' to control mine.
Ample current capacity, and they're used regularly for that purpose, with instructions supplied.
Good feedback on their reliability (unlike Derale!), and cheaper than the Davies,Craig item.