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VW/Audi 07K (2.5L 20V I5) Swap Thread

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Old 09-26-2019, 02:14 PM
  #1621  
vt951
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Originally Posted by RoyaleWithCheese
Omg that video was amazing. I think I'll just leave it on a loop in my headphones at work all day today haha.

My pan was a 2007
Yeah it sounds good when rev'd, but I think a little bit of muffler would help it sound better/deeper at idle? Seems to like that lightweight aluminum flywheel, though!
Old 09-26-2019, 02:27 PM
  #1622  
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Originally Posted by V2Rocket
will that place be making all the swap ECU/harnesses for this?
estimate on ecu/harness cost, along with oil pan cost?
Yes, PE will be making the swap harnesses and ECU's for us. The first one (on Mike's car) is a development harness, so not loomed like the production harness will be. The one for my car will be more representative, and was described by the engineer at PE as "a work of art". I haven't seen it yet, though. Cost for PE stuff is TBD. As with everything else, we're trying to keep it as reasonable as possible. This will be a very capable and powerful ECU. Mike can speak better to this, as he's leading the ECU portion of the kit.

Oil pan cost is also TBD, but I think I can safely say that we will be able to sell the complete modified upper pan and fabricated lower sump with trap doors and oil pickup for under $1k (plus upper pan core). It is a complex assembly with a lot of different manufacturing processes and high dollar fabrication labor that goes into it. So, it is more costly than I had hoped, but I think in the end will be worth it. The alternatives would be to machine the whole upper pan from billet, or develop a custom casting, but both of those would almost certainly cost even more. The sump is fairly straightforward, but requires a lot of TIG welding so it's also pretty expensive to make. We could look at MIG to reduce welding cost, but I think with the thin sheet metal it will be more likely to have leaks, so TIG seems like the better option to me.
Old 09-26-2019, 02:50 PM
  #1623  
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Originally Posted by EastEnd944
My oil pan is a 2008. I'm really looking forward to seeing that car on the dyno, hopefully the fender exit exhaust won't blow out your mic!
Haha! I’ve got an “internal muffler” to install but honestly I just wanted to hear how ridiculous it would be for the first start. I’m glad I did!
Old 09-26-2019, 03:07 PM
  #1624  
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The two different pans are probably for the two different oil pumps (technically 3 different pumps but I believe the first two are very similar with a mechanical pressure switch vs the electric one on the later engines). Mike/Alan do you have a later block/pump to see if the pickup is the same? The pumps cannot be interchanged and must stick with their respective block from what I can tell.

Info on the different pumps here: http://theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.p...3089&start=100

Early Mechanical (left) vs Late Electric (right)

Old 09-26-2019, 03:10 PM
  #1625  
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Originally Posted by hinton
Haha! I’ve got an “internal muffler” to install but honestly I just wanted to hear how ridiculous it would be for the first start. I’m glad I did!
See, I think it sounds great! The way Audi did it in the 80's was most likely a straight pipe from the turbo out the back/side of the car, which adds length to the whole system. The length and internal diameter of the exhaust will have a big say in the way it sounds due to resonance and vibration, which is probably why yours sounds a little.... raw, and unrefined XD
Old 09-26-2019, 03:12 PM
  #1626  
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And FYI, if you remove your oil pump you should use the alignment tool for re-installation. Roughly $200 via Snapon, $320 on ebay.
https://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDe...temid=36820123
Old 09-26-2019, 03:25 PM
  #1627  
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Re: Electric water pumps

Browse through Jim Green's 07k Audi 90 thread here: http://theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.p...=73&start=2650
He removed the factory water pump and went with a BMW one along with an MR2 electric power steering pump so then he's only running an alternator on the serp pulley. He has had a few BMW pumps fail so I think he was going to or has changed to a Davies Craig pump. Also, he has gone through a couple alternators presumably to over-spinning since he revs to 8200rpm now, but didn't want to change the pulley too much as to not have it charge at idle. Something to think about if anyone is thinking of going this route.
Old 09-26-2019, 03:36 PM
  #1628  
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Originally Posted by alxdgr8
The two different pans are probably for the two different oil pumps (technically 3 different pumps but I believe the first two are very similar with a mechanical pressure switch vs the electric one on the later engines). Mike/Alan do you have a later block/pump to see if the pickup is the same? The pumps cannot be interchanged and must stick with their respective block from what I can tell.

Info on the different pumps here: http://theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.p...3089&start=100

Early Mechanical (left) vs Late Electric (right)
Alex, thanks for this info. Mike and I have 2008 engines. Our pumps all look like the early style (left in your pic). The pic up tube interface appears to be the same, but it would be great to verify that asap.

EDIT: I just ordered one of those late oil pumps (07K115105R), which came in '11 to '14 engines. So, I'll be able to verify fitment of the oil pickup tube.

Last edited by vt951; 09-26-2019 at 05:29 PM.
Old 09-26-2019, 05:58 PM
  #1629  
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ALL - Asking for some help here!

There is a timing mark on the crank pulley and front main seal. They do NOT line up when #1 is at TDC. Does anyone have access to Alldata or have any idea what that timing mark is in reference to? Should it be cylinder 5? It’s like 40 degrees off when #1 is at TDC. I know I’m not crazy because we got the engine running based off me making a new mark with a paint marker when #1 was at TDC!

hoping to get an answer before lunch tomorrow so we can get the car on the dyno. Any help is much appreciated!
Old 09-26-2019, 06:05 PM
  #1630  
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Originally Posted by hinton
ALL - Asking for some help here!

There is a timing mark on the crank pulley and front main seal. They do NOT line up when #1 is at TDC. Does anyone have access to Alldata or have any idea what that timing mark is in reference to? Should it be cylinder 5? It’s like 40 degrees off when #1 is at TDC. I know I’m not crazy because we got the engine running based off me making a new mark with a paint marker when #1 was at TDC!

hoping to get an answer before lunch tomorrow so we can get the car on the dyno. Any help is much appreciated!
The timing marks line up when cylinder 5 (Closest to timing chain) is at TDC. It messed me up too at first when I resealed my engine and did the head gasket.
Old 09-26-2019, 06:06 PM
  #1631  
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I can’t remember if it is cylinder 5 or 3 . It is something different .
Old 09-26-2019, 06:13 PM
  #1632  
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The only info I can give is a "he said-she said"; from the 07k basic facts thread on Project Pad, folks over there mentioned Cylinder #5 being the TDC reference. I can do more research after class #collegekidstuff
Old 09-26-2019, 07:29 PM
  #1633  
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Re: Electric water pumps:
I'm using a PWM electric fan controller from 'Autocool' to control mine.
Ample current capacity, and they're used regularly for that purpose, with instructions supplied.
Good feedback on their reliability (unlike Derale!), and cheaper than the Davies,Craig item.
Old 09-26-2019, 07:35 PM
  #1634  
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Thanks guys! I’ll give #5 a shot and report back...
Old 09-26-2019, 07:55 PM
  #1635  
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So uhh.... I found this:



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