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Ok, Dexron VI it is then. And since it's an 86.5 it does not have the extra line as a cooler so yaay!
Today I suctioned out all the old PS fluid from the tank, pulled the return line, cleaned it up, drained all the oil I could from that, cleaned it again and re-attached it to the reservoir. With that done I filled it up with ATF, started the car, no drips. Should be clean enough for me to see something going on. If it leaks again I might try trimming off the top centimeter of the line and try plugging it in further down to seal better before replacing the whole line.
Trimming the line will usually fix it for a while. Usually the line just weeps and isn't a drip, so crap just sticks to the fluid on the hose but it doesn't really go anywhere fast.
I would however replace your pressure line if it hasn't been done before. They love to burst and set the car on fire.
Finally got around to replacing the flex plate clamp bolt.
It only took breaking a socket, 3 minutes of heat from a mapp gas torch on the bottom of the clamp where the threads were, a 1/2 inch breaker bar, and a loud bang when it finally let go.
The clamp moved probably 4mm at minimum. No metal in the oil/never cranked slow so I should be fine. New bolt with blue loc tite installed to 66ft/lbs. Hopefully it does its job for now.
Also tightened up the oil pan bolts as most were fairly loose and the gasket was leaking even though it is only about 5 years old.
I also managed to destroy the butt terminal on the short harness for Greg's alternator upgrade so now I need to replace the terminal and buy what I am hoping is the proper crimper this time
Changed the Power Steering line (pump to rack) on my '87. What was there was most likely the original, and was dripping a bit. I didn't read up on how to do it: I lowered the anti-sway bar and alternator for access. I loosened the fan shroud and moved it a bit which enabled removal of the upper alternator bolt with the lower radiator hose in place.
FYI: The alternator cooling hose currently sold (non-original from 928rus) does not like to be exposed to ATF - it melts away...I'm going to seek a better solution.
Changed the Power Steering line (pump to rack) on my '87. What was there was most likely the original, and was dripping a bit. I didn't read up on how to do it: I lowered the anti-sway bar and alternator for access. I loosened the fan shroud and moved it a bit which enabled removal of the upper alternator bolt with the lower radiator hose in place.
FYI: The alternator cooling hose currently sold (non-original from 928rus) does not like to be exposed to ATF - it melts away...I'm going to seek a better solution.
The way you did it is the only easy way to deal with that line. You have to drop the alt to get at the lines leading to the pump. I would replace the others as well as they are probably in similar shape.
I took my 928S to PCA tech and failed spectacularly. Well, I think the actual words were "carbeque!"
Suspension is fine, however the amount of dried oil and junk on the underside of the engine flipped them out. No I am not burning oil, but I am burning power steering fluid. So I took the car this evening to the car wash, set for engine degrease, and spent some time firing it under the car, top of the car, and around the PS reservoir. My guess is the PS return line is leaking, fun...
Speaking of which, the guy there said to always use ATF in the power steering system and not power steering fluid. Is this true?
Just done the lines on my 85 which is going through total rebuild anyway and my 89GT which is meant to be the one that's working but developed a bad leak. Looking at the 89's history it was due for a pipe change anyway, prompted in part by pictures of burning 928s I have seen on Rennlist. No history on the 85 so everything rubber is being changed anyway. My observations of the job
1) Pretty nasty, difficult access on axle stands (easy on the 85 with the engine out )
2) I stripped everything out; alternator, reservoir, pressure and return lines and I think starter for access (maybe for cleaning, can't remember)
3) Clean everything, it will be terrible
4) Had pressure and return lines rerubbered by Pirtek for about ~£180 for the GT. The 85s lines were heavily corroded so Pirtek remade both lines from scratch - nice job.
5) My 89 leak was from the little formed tube on the return line where it connects to the reservoir - split through almost. As far as I can tell this line is NLA so bent some 10mm hard line into the correct shape and connected it to the reservoir with some straight tube
6) Added a silicon firesleeve over the pressure line, which as far as I can tell is the one that is usually implicated in pipe burst engine fires. Left the tubing open at both ends
7) I took the opportunity to rebuild the PS pump with new seals, not sure if it was leaking or not
8) Make sure you still have the wire pipe clip on the PS pump
9) Getting the alternator lifted back up and getting the pivot bolt in is a pig of a job. I elected to drain the coolant and remove the bottom hose to gain access. Be patient and be prepared to a) swear, b) walk away
10 ) before you take the alternator off, note how the wiring is configured, I think mine is still wrong and getting references is difficult.
11) Take lots of pictures, expect the job to take longer than you expect
I didnt do all of this today, but have so far this summer:
used gas tank
fuel pump
all new lines
cam cover gaskets
replaced fuel sender
new fuel flap and o ring over gas cap
new plastic **** to tilt passenger seat forward
new low tone air horn
AC Belt
Received my fully re-con Valeo alternator back today, when I opened the box I thought it was a new unit, very impressed with the quality.
The original belt pulley wheel had a chunk out of it and the rotor was bent in places, neither previously interfered with the working of the original unit., but they replaced them anyway.
Ken
80 928 S
5 Speed
UK
Last edited by 9two8; 08-17-2019 at 05:38 PM.
Reason: missing details
My S4 was missing the clutch arm bushing, so I installed one.
It was a PITA to do on my own, and took longer than described in the 'Clutch arm bushing easy 35 min. install' thread, but my car is complete again.
Put it in shop for timing belt adjustment after getting 2 tension warnings....
I take zero risks with that entire area of the car; I have never done it before and decided with what's at stake won't learn on my own car....too much to lose if I mess it up...and generally I need more than one shot to get things right so....
Put it in shop for timing belt adjustment after getting 2 tension warnings....
While I completely understand your concern, what does a timing belt adjustment entail? These cars have tensioners that should to the adjustment. Do you mean you are getting a TB inspection/ manual tension reading? From that you should be able to know if you have a TB problem that would require replacement/tensioner rebuild or an electrical sensor issue, which can also occur. Obviously there are smarter minds here on this, so don’t just go by me.
Its good to have it checked, but you can do the manual inspection on your own with a few spare hours and the Kempf tool. I learned how on mine.
While I completely understand your concern, what does a timing belt adjustment entail? These cars have tensioners that should to the adjustment. Do you mean you are getting a TB inspection/ manual tension reading? From that you should be able to know if you have a TB problem that would require replacement/tensioner rebuild or an electrical sensor issue, which can also occur. Obviously there are smarter minds here on this, so don’t just go by me.
Its good to have it checked, but you can do the manual inspection on your own with a few spare hours and the Kempf tool. I learned how on mine.
Good luck!
Yes...timing belt tension warning light has come on twice in about 3 days...it's almost 5 years old and have the Conti belt so not concerned.
Install plus an adjustment at 1200 miles is all that's been necessary so far from 2015 till now so I'm not bothered by another adjustment needed before we do cam chains/pads this winter and will no doubt do the full TB/water pump service at that time. Will also use Conti belt when we replace.
07-29-2019, 02:03 AM
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