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Spent the last few days analyzing my stuck closed rear hatch problem. Was able to solve it by adjusting motor position. Now I seem to have blown a fuse, as I am absent the normal whirring sound when the switch is pulled and of course the click that accompanies opening. I need to locate the fuse and identify its exact position on the fuse panel to determine if it is now an electrical issue. Since I am a newbie, I don't have an electrical diagram sheet or work manual.
Just checked the 1 amp fuse and it is OK.
First off, what year. That matters.
Second off, the hatch release operates on something like 3 separate circuits.
One of them is the interior lights. Those have to work for the hatch release to function.
That way, unless the lights are on via the door switch (door open) the hatch won't open.
This has been covered fairly well in the past. Look for posts from "Alan". He's the electrical wiz on here.
Have been fighting the upholstery panel that goes over the upper part of the door (window frame). Stupid clips came loose and plastic weld sucked. Went with Gorilla glue...still have one that pulled away but it's quiet enough for me....it was making creaking noises every time it went over a bump it was driving me nuts.
Drove the S4 for the first time since the fall. And drove. And drove. All my favorite local roads and then some with nary another car in my way. (Thanks C-19!)
Putzing around in the '80 auto is fun-n-all but I forget that the S4 manual's reel-in-the-horizon power is totally addictive
As I clawed my way out of another tight turn today I remembered that I had dialed in 3+ degrees cam advance the last time I had the covers of on the S4 for moar torque around town. Torque is good. Can't really max out the HP 'round here anyway.
installed a couple of grommets and some new doorjamb decals. Removed the amp and mounting board so I can get to the top of the fuel tank and get the sending unit out.
Since being socially distant as much as possible, I pulled the '80 into the shop and started to strip it's interior and do a complete do-over on a budget. Working on a few pieces all at once, but this is what I did to the steering wheel, which was in pretty bad shape. Unfortunately towards the end of all the sewing, I realized that the cover I used was just a tad too big, hence the little fold on the bottom. This wasn't the case when test fitting it, probably came from stretching it tightly. The company unfortunately doesn't have a smaller size available. All in all I think it looks good for now until I'll do a real re-cover. It's a nice, soft leather that feels great in the hand. Fingers hurt quite a bit in the process from all the tugging and pulling and stitching!
Second off, the hatch release operates on something like 3 separate circuits.
One of them is the interior lights. Those have to work for the hatch release to function.
That way, unless the lights are on via the door switch (door open) the hatch won't open.
This has been covered fairly well in the past. Look for posts from "Alan". He's the electrical wiz on here.
I want to thank all the forum members that offered advice and provided circuitry layouts. With that educational info I have finally resolved my stuck hatch failure. It was a combination of issues that had to be corrected. As I was once again not getting a whirring sound from the hatch motor, when pulling on the driver's switch, I discovered that the lead to the motor had once again disconnected. After reconnecting the lead, I still couldn't get a whirring sound. Researching the forum supplied electrical chart, I discovered that power to the motor travels via power board 7.5 amp fuse #24 (lighting) and which was blown. Evidence that the fuse was blown was indicated by lack of interior courtesy lighting. I replaced the fuse, which immediately blew and replaced it again with the same result. As a last result, I inserted a 10 amp fuse, the lights came on and I got a straining whirring sound as the motor forced the lock open! With the hatch now open, when I pulled the open switch, every thing operated normally. I could even open the mechanical lock with the key. Now the assumption was that the motor and circuitry were fine but the lock was binding. Checking how the hatch tongue entered the body latch opening, revealed that it was offset. I tried readjusting both of the lock assembly positions but the bolt holes were permanent and there was no allowance for movement. Finally, I checked the hatch side alignment and discovered, an uneven gap between sides was causing the misalignment and binding. Now I just have to determine the procedure to make the hatch adjustment. Anyone that has made that adjustment have advice?
What does this mean? "I checked the hatch side alignment and discovered, an uneven gap between sides"
ETA Nevermind, I think I may understand what you are saying, we will see. If the bottom hatch is not sitting flush then we are good!
The bottom hatch bolts down to a floating plate with two holes in it, it is not actually bolting down to the body but rather through the body and in to this floating plate that is held in place by two clamps. It's possible for the soft clamps of the floating plate to become too loose and then the bottom hatch might bind up in the wrong spot, making the installation slightly crooked. Correct the moved (moving) floating plate issue and reinstall the bottom hatch level.
What does this mean? "I checked the hatch side alignment and discovered, an uneven gap between sides"
The body gap between the left and right fenders and the hatch is different. The gap on both sides should be the same so the lock tongue and receiver will align up. The lid will close but the lock tongue will be forced sideways into the receiver and bind.
Shark, I received your second reply after I had answered your initial question. I'll have check out what you refer to as an adjustable receiver plate mounting. I still need to correct the aesthetics of the body gap. Thanks for your input
Last edited by whale driver; 04-03-2020 at 08:45 PM.
Reason: added second replay
The body gap between the left and right fenders and the hatch is different. The gap on both sides should be the same so the lock tongue and receiver will align up. The lid will close but the lock tongue will be forced sideways into the receiver and bind.
I did an ETA on my above post, we may have been typing at the same time. Please take another look, maybe it's of value to you, hopefully.
Yep sounds like you're on the right track. Align the hatch first, then adjust the alignment of the receivers, hatch-body-motor.
The exterior male hatch bolts are at the top of the hatch, under the front-most lip of the hatch. the matching nuts are accessed by removing the two plastic clip-in "plates" in the rear portion of the front/main headliner.
Loosen the bolts and adjust the position of the hatch, best accomplished with two people if possible, doable solo, but more frustrating getting it lined up.
There are also two rubber nubs on the interior of the hatch, on both rear corners of the hatch, they are bumpers and can be screwed/unscrewed to adjust/absorb the closed position of the hatch. Make sure they are symmetric, then adjust accordingly.
Also on the middle-rise of the hatch channel on the body of the car, with hatch open, there are two rubber bumpers that can be adjusted up/down to apply the right pressure to the middle of the hatch. They squeak sometimes, a piece of clear tape or a schmear of dow-molycoat111 in the channel where the rubber meets it may cure the squeak.
Once the hatch is aligned then you can adjust the hatch receiver horizontally, body receiver horizontally, and also adjust the motor vertically. All three are adjustable but the bolts sometimes get frozen with time. Apply some loosening spray and give it time and love, and they'll work loose after awhile. Also, high-quality hex bits will make for a much better experience, low quality hex bits will make your life miserable.
Good luck! Stay well
Oh yeah, there are spacer plates that live under both the body and hatch receivers. Adding or subtracting spacer plates is another "vertical spacial adjustment" that helps. I've got a few extra spacers if you can't your hands on any and need some.
Yep sounds like you're on the right track. Align the hatch first, then adjust the alignment of the receivers, hatch-body-motor.
The exterior male hatch bolts are at the top of the hatch, under the front-most lip of the hatch. the matching nuts are accessed by removing the two plastic clip-in "plates" in the rear portion of the front/main headliner.
Loosen the bolts and adjust the position of the hatch, best accomplished with two people if possible, doable solo, but more frustrating getting it lined up.
There are also two rubber nubs on the interior of the hatch, on both rear corners of the hatch, they are bumpers and can be screwed/unscrewed to adjust/absorb the closed position of the hatch. Make sure they are symmetric, then adjust accordingly.
Also on the middle-rise of the hatch channel on the body of the car, with hatch open, there are two rubber bumpers that can be adjusted up/down to apply the right pressure to the middle of the hatch. They squeak sometimes, a piece of clear tape or a schmear of dow-molycoat111 in the channel where the rubber meets it may cure the squeak.
Once the hatch is aligned then you can adjust the hatch receiver horizontally, body receiver horizontally, and also adjust the motor vertically. All three are adjustable but the bolts sometimes get frozen with time. Apply some loosening spray and give it time and love, and they'll work loose after awhile. Also, high-quality hex bits will make for a much better experience, low quality hex bits will make your life miserable.
Good luck! Stay well
Oh yeah, there are spacer plates that live under both the body and hatch receivers. Adding or subtracting spacer plates is another "vertical spacial adjustment" that helps. I've got a few extra spacers if you can't your hands on any and need some.
Thanks for the descriptive info and spacer plate offer. I'll get to work on the hatch adjustment while I have the hatch open as I can't drive the car with the hatch unlocked. I'll let you know if there will be a need for additional spacers.
03-30-2020, 02:22 PM
