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^^ i just installed my own set of those a few months ago after having had them on the shelf for a few years
i had some 3/4 OD by 1/2 ID spacers that i ground to 18mm or so OD and cut to match hook width for my early car. nice and snug now.
Yesterday I conducted Leak down tests after the car overheated at Summit Point a few weeks back, robbing me of 1st place in ST6. Numbers came back well within spec. I also bled the coolant system, removed the thermostat, and updated the cooling system with a new turbo radiator, new coolant reservoir tank, new cap, new hoses, and fresh water. I’m hoping she holds up well for the PCA Club Race at Summit Point in September.
And realized I had standing water inside the trunk over the left quarter panel (currently parked sloping left), that was barely dripping. Pulled up the carpet, and the left side was half full...... Note, it had been nearly 24 hours since it rained. Cleared out a bunch of dirt to get the water to move out of where it wanted to go through, and it drained quickly. Is this normal, and the drain point was clogged? It doesn't FEEL right. I'll grant, yesterday was a TORRENTIAL downpour, and I plan to get a car cover soon. It may be a bit hard to get bearings on this image. The shiny central image of the shock holding up the hatch is the water that was standing in there as I was draining it.
I felt around a bit, and it kind of felt like this might be where the drain points lead to, but I wasn't sure... It was about 2x this depth in this cavity when I lifted back the carpet (which was DRY) to start trying to clear crap out.
Figured out its no start (loose crank sensor connector) after redoing a bad oil cooler housing reseal job along with redoing the top end gaskets and hoses.
Also got rid of some pesky exhaust leaks by using some correct Porsche metal gaskets while I was in there and had it off.
Car runs great but the power steering is leaking after I put on new lines. Now to figure out if it is a bad crush ring or a failing rack...
The water problem in the rear wells is because the car is a U Boat and takes on water automatically as ballast to balance the rear in the rain.
Seriously, the problem is the hoses that connect to the sunroof drains: Two of them go to the front down the front side pillars and two go to the rear down the rear pillars. What happens is over the decades the tubes shrink and become disconnected from the metal fittings. In the front of the car this leads to water just forward of the door sill and makes you think it's a door problem. In the back the passenger side has a T fitting going to the fuel door drain (ever wonder where that went?) and the hose uncouples there. Pull the rear trim and check the hoses. I took mine out, stretched them, and re-installed with a bit of glue to hodl, you could also use hose clamps.
That's it. It's not the hatch, it's not seals, it's not the sunroof seal (which is never meant to be waterproof). It's the hoses becoming detached. Or clogged, but at this point they are probably detached.
This weekend I had my 944S go totally overheat-bat****. One of my fans was jammed stopped due to a seized bearing so I pulled the fans, replaced the seized fan, drilled a hole in the back of the other fan, injected new grease, sealed the hole with JB weld and copper plate, and re-installed. Fans work, life great, took out for a short drive, massive overheat.
Turns out the fans spun when the water was cool/warm, but when it got hot the fans *TURNED OFF*. Thought it was the fan relay, but it's fine, the problem seems to be the coolant temp sensor. And in an amazing display of Porsche stupidity, it turns off the low speed fan when it turns on the high speed which means when the high speed fails the fans go to zero instead of just circulating some air.
Oi. Also caused a leak at the heater valve and those hoses look shabby so I ordered both little hoses, new heater valve, new temp sensor and a new sensor washer to pull and replace everything. At least it's a good time to switch out my coolant.
Also I think it's time to acknowledge reality and bypass the fan resistors. Now that temps in MD are going into the upper 90's every day the AC system needs all the air over the small condenser it can get, and it's no longer the 80's anymore with cooler weather. So I'll be bypassing those resistors (which also just melt the wires anyway) and let the fans run at full speed to cool the coolant.
The water problem in the rear wells is because the car is a U Boat and takes on water automatically as ballast to balance the rear in the rain.
Seriously, the problem is the hoses that connect to the sunroof drains: Two of them go to the front down the front side pillars and two go to the rear down the rear pillars. What happens is over the decades the tubes shrink and become disconnected from the metal fittings. In the front of the car this leads to water just forward of the door sill and makes you think it's a door problem. In the back the passenger side has a T fitting going to the fuel door drain (ever wonder where that went?) and the hose uncouples there. Pull the rear trim and check the hoses. I took mine out, stretched them, and re-installed with a bit of glue to hodl, you could also use hose clamps.
That's it. It's not the hatch, it's not seals, it's not the sunroof seal (which is never meant to be waterproof). It's the hoses becoming detached. Or clogged, but at this point they are probably detached.
The front two terminate into metal tubes on the engine/inside of the fenders, you can feel them by checking right under the hood hinges. The rear ones go into those tubes in the wells which then go through holes to outside under the car.
Pull the rug back in the rear of the car and you will see them and how it works and probably where they are disconnected.
At the roof, behind the headliner at each corner of the sunroof. They slip over barbs there, and sometimes can expand and crack, or even work completely loose. The two rear tubes run down each side behind the wheel wells and poke through the floor pan. The fronts run down the A-Pillars and dump under the hood on the sides.
Installed a new cylinder head gasket on the race car. Amazed at the condition of all things involved. I could reuse all of the exhaust header studs should I choose (but won't). Had no issues unbolting or buttoning up afterwards. Thank you Porsche for making such high quality stuff. Also, I found the Haynes manual quite useful for this.
Had a nice little excursion yesterday collecting my car from the painter after some touch ups. I had it at the detailers for paint correction and ceramic coating. The refining process for the ceramic coating turned up a few minor defects in the paint which were easily fixed but because the painter lives over an hour away from me and I work shifts it's been waiting 2 weeks for me to go get it. The car will go back to the detailer next month.
08-09-2020, 02:32 PM
