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Replaced rear speakers. Attempted without pulling windows. No go. Popped the rear windows and carefully pulled back trim. Used the string method to reinstall. First window took a few tries. Second went in 90 seconds once I understood the process better.
once I was back there, discovered the car had the removable plate for larger speakers. Already had some infinity kappas, so just went with those. Sounds good. Replaced fronts with retro sounds.
Hey Vloth, can you take a picture of where the battery negative ground strap attaches back there? I need to replace mine and it's a really tight fit to find it with everything on.
In the meantime my weekend project was replacing the bushings on my front swaybar on the 944S. I have the M030 option, but one of the bushings had disintegrated decades ago from power steering fluid leaking.
Turns out replacing it is simple: The swaybar is not under tension with the car on the ground, and simply removing one of the links to the wheel A arm, sliding the old one off, and putting the new ones on was pretty much it.
And the results.... I've been driving it without the swaybar working for about 20 years now. The car's handling is so improved it's not funny. Very precise, holds turns much better, wish I had done this earlier.
Next project: Replace the power steering rack. Can that be done with the car wheels on the ground?
So my gas gauge shows 1/4 tank when empty, light is on. Put in new sending unit and changed the tank strainer so know the tank is completely empty. It took 8 quarts of gas to turn off the light, can the gauge be adjusted?
So my gas gauge shows 1/4 tank when empty, light is on. Put in new sending unit and changed the tank strainer so know the tank is completely empty. It took 8 quarts of gas to turn off the light, can the gauge be adjusted?
Dan
87 924S
I would suggest that your sender maybe dirty inside. I'd say they aren't adjustable but yours is sticky or jammed with a bit of junk. The bottom of the sender has a screw which requires a fork shaped driver. Or just squeezing it with pliers works as well but I had his oddball security screwdriver that was the correct shape. The metal sleeve will slide off and you can check that the float slides up and down the wires smoothly. Or maybe something is jammed or broken. Be very careful not to even touch the wires, they look pretty delicate
I took the VDO one apart it is nice and clean, also I put in a new URO-Parts sending unit and it reads the exact same. So the issue must be in the gauge, and now I have a spare sending unit!
Dan
Oh sorry, somehow I missed that you had replaced the sending unit. Yeah it does sound like the gauge. I didn't know URO made sending units. Where did you buy that?
The health of your hatch is the sum of all it's parts and can be a delicate balance. Over time UV light weakens the adhesive that bonds the glass to the metal frame of the hatch. These cars are all 30 yrs + so the reality is they are all weakened to some point.
New, full strength struts can pull on the glass and separate it from the frame along the leading edge of the hatch where it hinges to the body. The glass is only toughened glass, not stronger laminated glass, so prolonged driving with glass separation can cause it to flex and then chip or crack. Do a search, some people have opted to use jeep struts instead of the porsche ones. These aren't as strong but are the correct length. The idea is they're not strong enough to pull the glass from the weakened adhesive in the hatch frame.
So having all good condition hatch components, seals, hatch pin seats, greased locks, hatch pins adjusted correctly, hatch properly aligned, and being careful to close your hatch evenly with two hands all helps to prevent the glass separating from the frame.
So i just put in a new seal and struts, just noted a lot of wind noise and thought it was the seal, how is this fixed? Can the window pop out?
Also interested in a fix: I replaced the rear hatch seal awhile back, and when I closed the hatch it "popped" right at the rear passenger hinge. Not good, would like to fix before it spreads.
I used 3/4" wide "pinstriping" tape in matt black to block UV from getting to the hatch glass to frame bond. Super easy, may not do anything, or... maybe it will. This stuff is made for cars and should last for several years. I'm not recommending electrical tape.
02-20-2023, 11:03 PM
This stuff is made for cars and should last for several years. I'm not recommending electrical tape.
