Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
Yes i've looked at cars in Oz they do seem pricey compared to NZ. Daily emails aren't enough sadly. I rang that last red car within a couple of hours of the ad being placed but the new buyer rang just before me and bought after a test drive the next morning. The seller did 'quite' well out of the deal. Bought a year ago, put 10000 km on it then sold for $10K profit!
Phil, not good. I had the same problem. I would say minimum is SRF and PSM turned off (very important). If the problem still occurs then go for race pads, but they will squeal a lot so you may need to swap them in and out for the track. I use Pagid yellow on the track but they are unbearable on the road.
When I had the problem the pads were fine, it melted a sensor so that would be worth checking.
When I had the problem the pads were fine, it melted a sensor so that would be worth checking.
Had a WOF a few weeks ago and the mech stated there was 40% left then, so may be a sensor.
Hell, its only $$..
Why imp to turn off PSM?
Some people may be just lucky or there is perhaps another function I don't know about. Had a particular couch on email alert for 3 years (matching one that I bought in 1991). Finally one came up and I bought it. The questions on the page suggested the person had done very well by turning the couch over in one week. Checked the expired listings and found out that the seller had hit a buy now within 9 minutes of it being listed and then relisted it. It never got sent to me because of that.
Hey john, after uncles the other night I got this funny red light in the dash..something about brake pad wear..etc
What pads you going for..I know this thread beat this subject to death a while back but I'm too lazy to go look.
I don't need full on track pads as I'm only a part timer (fast tho)
What pads you going for..I know this thread beat this subject to death a while back but I'm too lazy to go look.
I don't need full on track pads as I'm only a part timer (fast tho)
PSM works by automatically applying your brakes (differentially between the 4 wheels, with the e-diff also working by braking the inside rear wheel). 996Ts are fast but also heavy so just the normal braking duties will get them pretty hot. Push hard enough to get PSM engaging often on track as well and your brake temps will go even higher. If I ran longish sessions hard with PSM on, I'd at least want SRF (or reasonably fresh RBF600/RBF660) and maybe some upgraded front brake ducts. I don't like what it does to the handling anyway (it cuts engine power at times) so I run with it off. In the wet I'd likely use it but the brakes would be running cooler then anyway.
The reason why the brake squeal on road (when using track pads) decreases after a hard session but returns after a little while, is that the hard session has the pads up to optimal temp and the mixed compound wears evenly as designed. But on road at cold temps the compound doesn't wear evenly - softer elements wear off the surface exposing the harder elements which creates the squeal on the rotor
Herman now in SITT trim. A little bit concerned how much pressure leakage the wheels/tyres had since the last Playday. I'll need to monitor that closely. I'm taking a spare front and rear tyre in the car as I have no spare rims and can't be pfaffed at this stage arranging it. If someone wants to use the spares as a pool, then they're welcome to pick them up, fit them to a wheel and ship them.
Brake pads look good although still squealing slightly even after using anti squeal pads and brake grease (thanks to Dave lending me some last night at short notice).
Lastly, totaled up the petrol cost of the Pre SITT. $320 for 1,000km. That should give you a ball park what the total fuel bill is going to be.
Brake pads look good although still squealing slightly even after using anti squeal pads and brake grease (thanks to Dave lending me some last night at short notice).
Lastly, totaled up the petrol cost of the Pre SITT. $320 for 1,000km. That should give you a ball park what the total fuel bill is going to be.
The reason why the brake squeal on road (when using track pads) decreases after a hard session but returns after a little while, is that the hard session has the pads up to optimal temp and the mixed compound wears evenly as designed. But on road at cold temps the compound doesn't wear evenly - softer elements wear off the surface exposing the harder elements which creates the squeal on the rotor
Without enough heat to transfer more material to the rotor, street driving soon rubs that layer off and sees the pad material just physically braking against the naked steel of the rotor. Particularly during mild braking, the vibrations that result from this make them squeal.
As I found out during the bedding in process, it is very hard to get them hot enough to remedy this on the street. I did buy a can of anti-squeal once to spray the backs of the pads but Conti's just said it would burn off on the first track day.
I would think that this 'physical wear only' braking mode must result in a somewhat shorter than expected rotor and pad life, but with endurance pads and good but cheap rotors, it doesn't worry me.
Doug your air con is now working again Matt your oil is changed and your coolant lines all pinned up....
Pete my wheels are with dean in wheel bags. I believe Ron is dropping his in tommorow so they are all there ready for pick up...
Pete my wheels are with dean in wheel bags. I believe Ron is dropping his in tommorow so they are all there ready for pick up...
Have a great trip south guys - will be thinking of you. Maybe we could embargo all footage until after - got too jealous of Macca on his European run. Nah, bring it on!