Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
#4111
$1020 landed (including GST), they came in with my Oz wheels.
Dean said the old transmission mounts looked fine, and I suspect the engine mounts were too... this car has only seen 40k kms. Not expecting to pick up any time from the change directly, but improved confidence through better feel of what the car's doing may help a small amount. Definitely worth replacing them on older cars, as Dave found the engine mounts were shot on the 964... RS mounts were on my list before I moved on from that car.
No issues with my brakes on track, just very close to wear limits from many hard track days. Moving from Pagid RS29s to PFC 06 (front)/01 (rear) expecting better life out of the pads and slightly better brake bias for trail braking.
Matt. I found the same when I installed the Rs engine mounts and RSR tranny mount. Its probably improved the shifting all by itself. The old ones were likely past their best. It probably wont save you any time on the track but it will make the load transitions a bit more stable.
IMO one of the first things needed to be done to the older cars in preparing them for the track is to have the engine and transmission mounts replaced with new and harder compound. I went as far as having the engine mounting frame reinforced with the Rennline gusset in anticipation of a significant hp increase which hasnt yet happened, but I think thats probably overkill....
The new pads and rotors will improve things. Did you have issues with the original set up? I notice brakes seem to be a re occurring theme here...
IMO one of the first things needed to be done to the older cars in preparing them for the track is to have the engine and transmission mounts replaced with new and harder compound. I went as far as having the engine mounting frame reinforced with the Rennline gusset in anticipation of a significant hp increase which hasnt yet happened, but I think thats probably overkill....
The new pads and rotors will improve things. Did you have issues with the original set up? I notice brakes seem to be a re occurring theme here...
No issues with my brakes on track, just very close to wear limits from many hard track days. Moving from Pagid RS29s to PFC 06 (front)/01 (rear) expecting better life out of the pads and slightly better brake bias for trail braking.
Last edited by mjg; 08-03-2013 at 09:01 AM.
#4112
Rennlist Member
While I was getting the hydraulic seepage looked at I took off a wheel and checked out my pad life left. Unfortunately I seem to have a fair bit to go before I can justify a new set. Hopefully it will be a clear choice by then.
#4116
Rennlist Member
David. Looks good. The supplier of my card suggested an additional hole on the outer edge to keep the card flat. You can see it in the picture attached. Most people installing the RS cards end up drilling an extra hole here. I will be doing same as my cards are pre drilled for it.
Any issues winding the windows down or up withe the strap pull system?
I like the tan very much. I like it better than the black - shows the design of the wheel and its different. You don't see this colour wheel commonly. Makes a nice change and works well with the red...
Any issues winding the windows down or up withe the strap pull system?
I like the tan very much. I like it better than the black - shows the design of the wheel and its different. You don't see this colour wheel commonly. Makes a nice change and works well with the red...
#4117
Rennlist Member
You'll have to show me where you go the perspex and and template.
Just out of interest - did you weigh the difference, be interesting to see the saving.
#4118
Drifting
Macca, yes I agree, I will probably put one there. i added an extra at the leading edge as well. I should have sourced some plastic pop studs to pick up the factory holes but didn't. For the drivers one I will add an extra strip of the panel material to strengthen the outer edge to keep a better line when the screws are tightened down then come back and re jig the passengers door. The high impact panel material I used was quite strong, I don't know how some of the fibre board products would fare. The pull strap hooks up to the mechanism which is well clear of everything. I used an eyelet in each end of the dog collar and a M5 bolt passes through the upper strap, flat metal tab and lower strap, then washers and a Nyloc nut
#4119
Drifting
Weight, I should have but didn't. Bare panels with covers would barely be much more than a KG but a fitted panel with speakers makes it quite heavy again. When I pull one off I'll be sure to weigh it
#4121
Rennlist Member
Well, They took a while. I used the originals as the patterns, it worked well. The panel was High Impact Polystyrene from Mulford Plastics. 5mm foam from Para, Suede, two XL sized dog collars, eyelets, a few random bits of thick foam to push the panel off the door to keep the lock bezel under tension, and screws and cup washers. Next time I'll buy a set but I find this stuff part of the fun of modifying.
Weight, I should have but didn't. Bare panels with covers would barely be much more than a KG but a fitted panel with speakers makes it quite heavy again. When I pull one off I'll be sure to weigh it
Weight, I should have but didn't. Bare panels with covers would barely be much more than a KG but a fitted panel with speakers makes it quite heavy again. When I pull one off I'll be sure to weigh it
#4122
Rennlist Member
Dave. Like me I know your a big fan of kevlar (I like it more than CF). Check out this 964 engine bay. Thats one hell of a lot of custom craftsmanship (makes 350 bhp too!).
Many say seal the rear of the nylon door pull straps with resin as they fray from usage...just a tip. Also this welting looks handy. Finally the factory built one official 993 speedster from FA Porsche and did a pocket for stuff thought that was a good idea...
Many say seal the rear of the nylon door pull straps with resin as they fray from usage...just a tip. Also this welting looks handy. Finally the factory built one official 993 speedster from FA Porsche and did a pocket for stuff thought that was a good idea...
#4123
Rennlist Member
Im expecting my RS door panels to save 5kg a side. That's keeping speakers albeit changing them to a far lighter coaxial with built in crossover.
If I removed my speakers front and rear and head unit it would be around 8kg all up.
If I removed my speakers front and rear and head unit it would be around 8kg all up.
#4124
Drifting
Macca, yes, I melted the ends with a lighter. The welting is interesting, I couldn't figure out the purpose of it but maybe it helps tidy things up a bit. Also, don't know if you noticed but the factory cards have some wasting at each bottom corner, couldn't figure that out either but I did it all the same, must clear the door seal better at the corners
Paul, I am considering a stereo delete. i fitted door speakers just to get the covers in place for the next guy or if I wanted audio again. I'd quite like to move the center console switches to a plate where the stereo was. I reckon there'd be 10 kg in a stereo delete.
Paul, I am considering a stereo delete. i fitted door speakers just to get the covers in place for the next guy or if I wanted audio again. I'd quite like to move the center console switches to a plate where the stereo was. I reckon there'd be 10 kg in a stereo delete.
#4125
Rennlist Member
Dave. As per pic above was a bit more than sealing the ends. Its about dipping the nylon in resin to give support around the eyelet. Not much repeated usage apparently can tear eyelet from nylon, common problem. I Couldnt ask Dean to do it too fiddly so will do it myself when Im back...
Stereo and door speaker delete for weight savings can wait for later if you are just starting diet many more heavy things to sort out first...
Stereo and door speaker delete for weight savings can wait for later if you are just starting diet many more heavy things to sort out first...