Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
Rennlist Member
I am a great believer in refreshing the so-called 'lifetime' fluids in german cars every 100,000 km at very most, so am getting to know the Cayenne better.
Nice: Push the switch to raise her up to special terrain mode, then just slide some axle stands underneath and start work. Luxury!
Not so nice: Ludwig, or whoever else tightened the ATF level inspection plug as if their life depended on it. Actually I suspect Ludwig would probably rather have thrown himself off a bridge than torque something wrong (it's definitely not 70Nm now) so it has either seized over time, or it was over-tightened here.
So probably another go tonight, with the CRC 5-56 having had a day to work, a shiny new breaker bar and maybe some freeze spray in reserve.
Also discovered today that the aircon 'Econ' button on a Cayenne doesn't seem to work like a jap one. On the japs, you still get some refrigerated air, but only half as much. On the Cayenne, it kills the aircon entirely. Would like to say that it didn't take an aircon specialist to tell me that, but I'd be lying...
Nice: Push the switch to raise her up to special terrain mode, then just slide some axle stands underneath and start work. Luxury!
Not so nice: Ludwig, or whoever else tightened the ATF level inspection plug as if their life depended on it. Actually I suspect Ludwig would probably rather have thrown himself off a bridge than torque something wrong (it's definitely not 70Nm now) so it has either seized over time, or it was over-tightened here.
So probably another go tonight, with the CRC 5-56 having had a day to work, a shiny new breaker bar and maybe some freeze spray in reserve.
Also discovered today that the aircon 'Econ' button on a Cayenne doesn't seem to work like a jap one. On the japs, you still get some refrigerated air, but only half as much. On the Cayenne, it kills the aircon entirely. Would like to say that it didn't take an aircon specialist to tell me that, but I'd be lying...
Changing the fluid requires you to jack up the car and place it on four jack stands. It is also important that the car is perfectly level, as this will affect the fluid level. Keep in mind that the exact fluid level is critical. If it isn't right, you risk damaging the internal components in the transmission. You'll also need to remove the underbody tray covering the transmission. See our articles on Jacking up your Cayenne and Removing Under Body Trays for more information. Remember to always wear safety glasses whenever you work under your vehicle.
It is critical that the car is firmly supported on the jack stands as you'll need to run the car in gear for the transmission pump to suck up the fluid. Have a helper nearby as well. You don't want to make a mistake and have a 5,000-pound truck fall on you.
It's also important to have the correct fluid. I recommend using the Porsche approved OEM fluid. This fluid contains friction modifiers specifically designed for the Tiptronic transmission. Failure to use the right fluid can damage the internal components. Figure on needing eight to nine liters of fluid to do the job.
Follow the directions below for draining out the old fluid and changing the filter. Once the sump cover has been re-installed, remove the fill port cover and use a fluid pump to do the initial fill of three to four liters. Start the engine and let it idle. Keep adding fluid to the transmission until it starts to pour out of the fill hole. Keep in mind that once you start the engine, it will circulate fluid. If you need to turn the engine off for any reason, re-fit the fill plug until you can continue the procedure.
Move the gear selector from park to drive, pausing for five seconds and then move it to reverse. Let the engine idle during this procedure. Again, make sure the vehicle is firmly supported on jack stands, as the wheels will spin. It helps to have someone in the car that can move the gear selector for you while you continue to add fluid.
At the same time, you'll need to monitor the temperature of the fluid. This can be done with the factory diagnostic computer or by using an aftermarket software such as Durametric. You can also use an infrared pyrometer to measure the temperature. The transmission is fully filled once the temperature is 40 degrees Celsius (104 degrees F) and starts to drain out of the fill port. Once filled, re-fit the fill port plug and torque it to 72Nm (52ft/lbs.).
Good luck
Rennlist Member
FWIW: The sheer weight and complexity of the Cayenne scares me witless. I have only changed the pads, rear door struts and heater fan on the Cayenne. I did no work on the 996TT either. On the other hand my goal is to do every task on the 964s, at some stage.
ATF replacement looks beyond me based on the following instructions
Changing the fluid requires you to jack up the car and place it on four jack stands. It is also important that the car is perfectly level, as this will affect the fluid level. Keep in mind that the exact fluid level is critical. If it isn't right, you risk damaging the internal components in the transmission. You'll also need to remove the underbody tray covering the transmission. See our articles on Jacking up your Cayenne and Removing Under Body Trays for more information. Remember to always wear safety glasses whenever you work under your vehicle.
It is critical that the car is firmly supported on the jack stands as you'll need to run the car in gear for the transmission pump to suck up the fluid. Have a helper nearby as well. You don't want to make a mistake and have a 5,000-pound truck fall on you.
It's also important to have the correct fluid. I recommend using the Porsche approved OEM fluid. This fluid contains friction modifiers specifically designed for the Tiptronic transmission. Failure to use the right fluid can damage the internal components. Figure on needing eight to nine liters of fluid to do the job.
Follow the directions below for draining out the old fluid and changing the filter. Once the sump cover has been re-installed, remove the fill port cover and use a fluid pump to do the initial fill of three to four liters. Start the engine and let it idle. Keep adding fluid to the transmission until it starts to pour out of the fill hole. Keep in mind that once you start the engine, it will circulate fluid. If you need to turn the engine off for any reason, re-fit the fill plug until you can continue the procedure.
Move the gear selector from park to drive, pausing for five seconds and then move it to reverse. Let the engine idle during this procedure. Again, make sure the vehicle is firmly supported on jack stands, as the wheels will spin. It helps to have someone in the car that can move the gear selector for you while you continue to add fluid.
At the same time, you'll need to monitor the temperature of the fluid. This can be done with the factory diagnostic computer or by using an aftermarket software such as Durametric. You can also use an infrared pyrometer to measure the temperature. The transmission is fully filled once the temperature is 40 degrees Celsius (104 degrees F) and starts to drain out of the fill port. Once filled, re-fit the fill port plug and torque it to 72Nm (52ft/lbs.).
Good luck
Changing the fluid requires you to jack up the car and place it on four jack stands. It is also important that the car is perfectly level, as this will affect the fluid level. Keep in mind that the exact fluid level is critical. If it isn't right, you risk damaging the internal components in the transmission. You'll also need to remove the underbody tray covering the transmission. See our articles on Jacking up your Cayenne and Removing Under Body Trays for more information. Remember to always wear safety glasses whenever you work under your vehicle.
It is critical that the car is firmly supported on the jack stands as you'll need to run the car in gear for the transmission pump to suck up the fluid. Have a helper nearby as well. You don't want to make a mistake and have a 5,000-pound truck fall on you.
It's also important to have the correct fluid. I recommend using the Porsche approved OEM fluid. This fluid contains friction modifiers specifically designed for the Tiptronic transmission. Failure to use the right fluid can damage the internal components. Figure on needing eight to nine liters of fluid to do the job.
Follow the directions below for draining out the old fluid and changing the filter. Once the sump cover has been re-installed, remove the fill port cover and use a fluid pump to do the initial fill of three to four liters. Start the engine and let it idle. Keep adding fluid to the transmission until it starts to pour out of the fill hole. Keep in mind that once you start the engine, it will circulate fluid. If you need to turn the engine off for any reason, re-fit the fill plug until you can continue the procedure.
Move the gear selector from park to drive, pausing for five seconds and then move it to reverse. Let the engine idle during this procedure. Again, make sure the vehicle is firmly supported on jack stands, as the wheels will spin. It helps to have someone in the car that can move the gear selector for you while you continue to add fluid.
At the same time, you'll need to monitor the temperature of the fluid. This can be done with the factory diagnostic computer or by using an aftermarket software such as Durametric. You can also use an infrared pyrometer to measure the temperature. The transmission is fully filled once the temperature is 40 degrees Celsius (104 degrees F) and starts to drain out of the fill port. Once filled, re-fit the fill port plug and torque it to 72Nm (52ft/lbs.).
Good luck
The manual also specifies that ATF must only be changed when the engine is cold. It is the checking and top up of the ATF that needs done at an ATF temperature of 40 Celsius.
For that, yes you run it through R and the D gears, and level it, but then you leave it idling in P and wait for the ATF to come to temp. Steel being a good heat conductor and air a poor one, the bottom of the tranny sump is less than a degree cooler than the contained ATF, so shooting with an IR gun is fine. The temperature comes up by a degree every one to two minutes so you just have to be ready to go once she hits 38 degrees.
It is only slightly more complicated if the ATF cooling lines have been drained under vacuum - the ATF needs to heat to 90C first to open the cooling circuit then cool back down to 40C.
There was plenty of time prior to use a level gauge. My driveway slopes but with the Cayenne's rear wheels half way up the two ramps I made for the Turbo - plus a smidge of jack pressure at front right - she was dead level. You do need to be precise.
Done the dry run already (and made a fill tool) so apart from some messy dripping (a la oil change) and stink (old ATF is horrible) it should be fine.
Right now I'm just checking the level and topping off if need be just to be sure she's not low before towing. But having the tricky bit practiced already will come in handy for the full ATF and filter change. I guess the reason they make it a bit complicated to check the level is precisely because it is sensitive and they dont want people pouring ATF (or engine oil!) down a dipstick line.
FWIW, I pick my battles, only use Porsche approved fluids of course, replace all stretch bolts/ crush washers/ O-rings/ seals/gaskets, and am religious with my torque wrenches.
2.2 odd ton versus 1.8 for the allroad and 1.7 for the TT. All will probably kill you dead if they land on you. As I said, I pick my battles, so Gillies recently put in my Turbo's replacement coolant tank (plus temp sensor and throttle body seal while in there). Mostly because it would taken too much family time at an inconvenient moment. On the Turbo over 5 years I think I've pretty much just done rotors and pads, oil, air and pollen filter changes, brake ducts, an ignition switch replacement, reconditioning of the wing lift rams, drone-proofing the cabin, and the battery swap. Bigger stuff and the regular maintenance schedule work has been done at Contis/Giltraps. But between mods and enthusiastic use, I reckon she deserves more frequent oil changes than that just those scheduled ones. It is a bit more work than a 964 I suppose (4 drain locations - dry sump, engine case and both turbos, plus it pays to have the Hazet tool for the filter) but not actually hard.
Last edited by 996tnz; 10-20-2016 at 01:45 AM.
Rennlist Member
So you are using the air suspension to raise it, putting the axle stands under the car, then raising the suspension?
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by 996tnz
To be fair, when you're hitting 10x the energy, the car isn't hiding it much anymore though. The above also helps explain why it takes at least as much time (and much,much more distance) to slow from 320 to 200 than it does from 200 to a complete stop.
Not sure that is true? Deceleration should be approximately constant ignoring small changes due to changing brake temps, tyre temps and aero. Pretty much a constant G? Agree the distance will be greater at the higher speed because you are going faster for the same time but the time from 250 to 150 should be about the same as 150 to 50 shouldn't it? Or is my physics wanting?
Last edited by 996tnz; 10-20-2016 at 05:29 AM.
Three Wheelin'
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vpZ...r#action=share
The old Marton stage renamed with Cop Corner. Its all action wet, dry, BMW rolled, oil warning out
The old Marton stage renamed with Cop Corner. Its all action wet, dry, BMW rolled, oil warning out
Rennlist Member
Great footage Graeme!
EXACTLY four weeks today and we will all be in the car driving to Fielding for leg 1 of the 4th Rennsport Gruppe North Island Track Tour!!!
EXACTLY four weeks today and we will all be in the car driving to Fielding for leg 1 of the 4th Rennsport Gruppe North Island Track Tour!!!
1) Have Cayenne running for say 30 secs to a minute or so to ensure air pressure in the pressure reservoir has been fully topped up.
2) Drive it forward/backward maybe a foot or so (perhaps sufficient to just toggle it in and out of drive? - Porsche seem to have locked out the lifting function when car has just started and is still stationary, probably to prevent accidentally wedging the car under something before driving off?). It looks like the car just needs to know that the driver has moved it before it will do it.
3) Hit the 'increase ride height' toggle twice to select Special Terrain Mode. The Cayenne will start lifting, and the instrument panel shows when that's finished, some 10-20 sec later.
4) Place the axle stands and go to work.
Now in the case of checking and topping off the tranny fluid, the engine needs to be left running so I'm not worried about settling as the car actively maintains its level, so I just put the axle stands under the jack points as security. If the engine was going to be turned off for a longish period then I'd want to make sure I could later get a jack under those points so it could be lifted to remove the axle stands afterwards (because the car seems to need to move a bit to allow lifting, it mightn't lift itself - unless it just automatically resumes the last set level?).
I normally read the driver's manual the day I buy a car but this time I'm yet to RTFM (well that driver's one anyway). But it's in the glovebox and I know from the allroad already that lifting an air suspended car by external means requires the air suspension be in lift mode first.
Kind of enjoying the organic discovery process this time though to be fair. Yesterday I discovered that working aircon is as simple as not pushing the Econ button, and that engaging Offroad modes 1 and 2 are as simple as being in Neutral with my foot on the brake when selecting them. Plus discovered the on board computer controls. Was also cool a while back finding an inbuilt air hose under the back seat. Guess that means its easy to drop tyre pressures for say sand, then raise them again afterwards before hitting the road again.
Will need to look into wheel alignment soon as even just the trip back from Rotorua visibly ate away at the shoulders.