Pel

I remember looking at Gulls website a while ago, it had a list of Porsches the fuel was safe for. I think 997 or newer was ok. Not the old gear though

Pel

http://gull.nz/fuel/gull-force-10

There's a safety data sheet there, doesn't recommend for pre 2007 Porsche.

Macca

Good base resource - thanks PEL.

Doug if you look at your owners manual it will tell you if the engine is designed for E10 fuel. Its a later model car so I believe it is. I know the 981/991 engine is. Its a common blend in US and EU now.

peterC2S

Strange that 2007 is the cut off - seems a bit arbitrary as the M97 engine spans before and after that date

O2GO

Thanks everyone. Good advice in there and I'll definitely avoid gull98 in Lola in future.

Macca, are you saying using 95 on the track risks overheating vs 95+octane booster?

Macca

John the basic rule of thumb is the higher the octane rating the cooler the heads will run for the same output. It depends on type load you expect to put on the engine. If you are running the car up to recline in summer head the extra 4-5 octane points are a little added margin. The engine will restart the timing of its own accord via the knock sensors running a lower octane fuel but the caveat is less power and a reliance on the accurate functioning of ageing sensors....personally on the track Ivd never run with anything less than 98....

Maxem

flat 12

shiraz

Spoke today to a couple driving a '65 356 cabrio through Kaikoura. Said they went Chch - W. coast - Nelson -Chch. 800 mile round trip (was a pom).
Good to see cars used!

Garry D

Dave , your car's look really nice , love the colour's real old school

356Downunder

Did you get a photo of it or note the ergo...I try and maintain a register of every 356 in the country... if its the one I think it is then the driver (and owner) was probably from Northern Ireland.

shiraz

Hi, no foto, was red. Friendly enough couple. Was happy to see an old classic used, rather than hidden away under a dust sheet in an air-conditioned underground bunker awaiting $ at auction. Can confirm rego offline if you pm me, don't want to infringe anyone's privacy.
Cheers - David

shiraz

Hi, no foto, was red. Friendly enough couple. Was happy to see an old classic used, rather than hidden away under a dust sheet in an air-conditioned underground bunker awaiting $ at auction. Can confirm rego offline if you pm me, don't want to infringe anyone's privacy.
Cheers - David

996tnz

Yes, you get the most engine protection by running a higher octane for some added safety margin in the event that a problem makes the engine more prone to pre-ignition. You get the most (sensible) power from running the lowest octane that still won't cause pre-ignition. Too much higher octane though without adjusting the tune (if outside the factory accommodation range) and the delayed combustion effectively means your exhaust valves are opening too early in the burn cycle and wearing faster. A little early matters little but at the extreme a good chunk of the combustion pressure is going straight out the exhaust (hence the heads running a bit cooler). Think of the anti-lag systems of earlier rally cars and the associated engine maintenance (though there are better anti-lag systems now with fuel powered 'rockets' etc in the exhaust systems rather than using delayed timng). The higher revving the engine, the shorter the cycle times and the more sensitive it will be to octane rating/ignition timing. The higher the effective compression ratio (high compression/force fed engines/oxygenated fuel/NOS) the higher the octane needed to resist pre-ignition. For best performance, run the highest octane your car is designed or tuned for, though as Macca says, there is an extra safety margin in running one grade higher when really maxing out your car on track, but at the expense of a little power.

GypsyR from the Mustang forum probably put it better:

Yes. "Octane" rating is the ability of gasoline to RESIST being ignited before the spark plug fires. The higher the octane, the harder it is to light off. One of the reasons you see great big dual magnetos on top fuel dragsters. They need the most spark they can get to get the very high octane fuel they use lit off. (OK, there are other reason too)
On a street car, you can get more power with more compression, a camshaft change, more advanced timing, etc. All stuff that contributes to to detonation. Sustained detonation leads to engine destruction. Period. A simple way to combat the problem is to run a higher octane fuel. You will actually give up some power over using a lower octane fuel but it's way more than offset by the gains to be had with high performance tuning and parts.
For the best power, you should use the lowest octane rated fuel you can while keeping the engine out of detonation. The first sign of detonation is pinging, the last sign is generally big holes in the tops of your pistons.
I remember one magazine (Hot Rod maybe?) got bored enough to dyno a stock car that was happy with 87 octane. They changed its fuel over to 110 octane race gas with no other changes and dynoed it again. In stock form they lost something like 30 horsepower. A hefty hit on a car that didn't make a whole lot of horsepower to begin with. Some minor tuning of the car to make it run better cut the loss to around 25 horsepower on another run. Thus proving using too high an octane fuel can be a bad thing along with a big waste of money. The article's still out there somewhere if someone cares to find it.
Diesel is another animal. Diesel fuel is rated in "cetane". Cetane is a fuel that burns PDQ. Diesel fuel mixes are rated as to how well and quick they ignite compared to cetane. Thus the higher the cetane rating, the more power can be gotten out of the fuel. Diesel cetane ratings are pretty much what most people think is what's going on with octane ratings which are actually the opposite.

Maxem

The official weight of the Orange T is 1015kg.
No gas
No spare or tools,
Full interior,
Full screen washer bottle,
Plastic front bumper - steel one not yet fitted.
Rest of body is all steel.
Deep 6 original Fuchs with 195-65 tyres.

Macca

Not Bad Dave. With 60L tank full and tool/spare wheel on board probably just under 1100KG (1085?). 195Kg lighter than my 993 in same trim!