Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
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John. All respect to you for undertaking this buddy. Its a huge achievement and Im sure its been very rewarding. Each to their own tho. I think I'm feeling more comfortable now with the 8-10 hours of labour CCS charge to drop and reinstate the engine! I'm afraid I would have neither the time nor patience (plus he concern I would bugger something up as I always seem to do when I go and fix something). Im pretty certain with the turn out on Sunday morning it should go smooth. Infact with the number you are catering for I suspect you could just lift the car body over your heads and stash it away in the corner of teh garage or something then get on with some bevvys aye!
Based on tools bought I'm behind about $500 on the drop portion just because of what I had to buy. $1,200 for the AC and ATV jacks, plus 19mm, 32mm, 36mm spanners, 6,8,10mm socket hex etc. I won't count the Esco stands as they were bought a while back.
I don't expect to do this often and as already said I will go through systems methodically. By the time I'm finished I expect to come out ahead on the cost to do what I have in mind, including the 20,000km service. Then I will have the equipment and confidence to do pretty much anything on the car, which is good for long term ownership. The goal is to have the best maintained DD 964 in NZ. I'm on the way.
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Yes I typically get charged around 4.5-5 hours labour each way. round $900 plus GST for the drop and reinstall. Ive seen the work involved and it looks fair. Outside of my tinkering its only needed dropping once in 21 years.
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I think I could drop an engine in less than that time now, if I had all of the tools ready and had no fastener issues, but I think it's fair to someone who works at normal pace and encounters a few difficult items. What doing it yourself affords is a good look at the condition of various items. Herman can sit in my garage for a year if need be while I get things sorted but a mechanic doesn't have the same options so we end up paying e.g. the crank ref sensor is $250, but the broken connector is maybe $20. I can replace the latter as I have the time. I can't wait until Sunday to get the engine fully out. Gearbox off to Dan, then I'll start investigating the engine oil leaks etc. My happy place.
Three Wheelin'
to put it all in perspective Macca its maybe GPB 50k to build a race spec FIA compliant 3.0 MFI motor 300-330 hp
If you are going to sell the gt3 anyway then just sell it a bit earlier for an extra 20k to spend on the bottom end. I think you will regret the compromise if you de spec the motor. I am not saying full max race - a roadable and torquey motor revable to say 7500 360hp??
If you are going to sell the gt3 anyway then just sell it a bit earlier for an extra 20k to spend on the bottom end. I think you will regret the compromise if you de spec the motor. I am not saying full max race - a roadable and torquey motor revable to say 7500 360hp??
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Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
I second this ^ You'd not want to get to the end and still be wanting for more. You only live once!
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I have been "only living once" all my adult life!
Bottom end wont be too much more. Oil pump refurbish (the 964 ones in the 993 are strong) some windage, lower bearings etc.
Bottom end wont be too much more. Oil pump refurbish (the 964 ones in the 993 are strong) some windage, lower bearings etc.
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Is the goal just more power and torque - then probably an RS 3.8 engine is fine - good for 320HP and 100,00km's of back road and track day driving?
If the goal is to beat or hang with a 996 GT3 or something faster - well you are talking circa 400 or more HP and an engine that will probably be seriously hot and need rebuilding every 20K?
So - whats the objective??
Last edited by kiwi 911; 08-14-2015 at 02:00 AM.
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Further to our chat off line, you need to decide what you want the car to do and to go faster than? - what's the measure of success?
Is the goal is just more power and torque - then probably an RS 3.8 engine is fine - good for 320HP and 100,00km's of back road and track day driving?
If the goal is to beat or hang with a 996 GT3 or something faster - well you are talking circa 400 or more HP and an engine that will probably be seriously hot and need rebuilding every 20K?
So - whats the objective??
Is the goal is just more power and torque - then probably an RS 3.8 engine is fine - good for 320HP and 100,00km's of back road and track day driving?
If the goal is to beat or hang with a 996 GT3 or something faster - well you are talking circa 400 or more HP and an engine that will probably be seriously hot and need rebuilding every 20K?
So - whats the objective??
As you know our 993s are already stuck squarely in the middle of the performance band between 964 & GT3 (for bench racer arguments sake lets say 1.16.00 at HD).
I think the goal for me would be to build a durable package for road and street that can lop 1.5s off the cars current capabilities in my current hands. This will ensure Im holding onto the older/slower GT3s - at least keeping a visual on their backsides around the track. Given my limited track experience Id like to find another 0.5s over time through becoming a better driver. I have 2 days at HD under my 993 belt and I know there is plenty left on the table. A little of it will be car set up too as I become more proficient.
If I could become a better driver, then with a 360 bhp/290lbft powerplant I see no reason why a 1300 kg 993 cant at least be in the fray of the 996 GT3s. Lets face it, the comparative field is really only 996.1/.2 GT3 (x5) & 991 GT3 (x5) in the RSG group at the tracks we run (Steve Rs 964 Cup spec race car aside). The new GT4s will fit in the same band, although possible towards the pointy end of the 996 GT3 bunch when pedalled well.
Given the power to weight will be similar to the GT3s (the torque/weight will possible be even more favorable) then I think that is a reasonable goal for the track. It means I wont be lonley out there even if I may end up being the meat in the sandwich. Also that tune will provide a good level or reliability, probably similar to a factory 3.8 engine as the internals will be alot lighter and stronger than stock.
For Targa, if I put R comps on and adjust the geo with that engine spec it will be able to keep up with anything in the field. he car already punches above its weight on road tyres and the new speed limits mean theres nothing to be had from boosting it to 400 bhp. The fun is in working the car and engine hard.
Those are my thoughts on the subject.
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PS
Hopefully the 993 will come out from under the winter cover in a few weeks. Warrent has run out while its hibernating. Rear tyres almost on the blocks, so I bit the bullet on some rear tyres, Michelin Pilot Sports. With the state of the USD/NZD not much in it now importing from Tire Rack. So I went local.
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Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
Thanks Spokes / Steve for the Tiguan feedback. You really need to get that 993 engine noise drumming through the valley again
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Drifting
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Whats a reasonable 199x 964 tipo worth here, realistically? say done 100km.
is it just the manuals that command the $$$?
and how easy/expensive is it to swap out a tipo to a manual?
Cheers