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1. Log into your account at connect.garmin.com using a web browser.
2. Click "Activities" in the left column to show the list.
3. Click the name of a single activity/session (typically the location name).
4. Click the small icon in the top right corner that looks like an 8-toothed gear.
5. Click "Export Original" in the menu to download a .ZIP file.
6. Extract the .FIT file from the .ZIP file.
You doing this on a PC or Mac? When I view the activity on my Mac, the "gear" icon does not offer an "Export Original" option. I also downloaded VIRB and the Android Transfer app supposedly necessary for the Mac to pull files, but no dice. The Android App doesn't seem to recognize the Catalyst while plugged in (the Garmin Connect app, however, does recognize and Sync).
Hey folks - I had my first experience using a Catalyst at Laguna on Monday...overall loved the simplicity of it.
But now I am back home and reviewing data and trying to understand some stuff...I am comparing my optimal lap to my best lap of the day and it seems like the position lines are way off.
For example here (but many other segments as well) the green line shows me not even coming close to the apex in T10, which I would never do unless maybe I'm going back to the paddock or letting someone by, but definitely not on my best lap of the data.
Is this a data problem or a bug in the system? I've noticed the lines shown seem really far off from reality. What would cause this?
(Forgive me I was driving my Elise that day and not my Porsche, but I doubt that was the problem!)
Hey folks - I had my first experience using a Catalyst at Laguna on Monday...overall loved the simplicity of it.
But now I am back home and reviewing data and trying to understand some stuff...I am comparing my optimal lap to my best lap of the day and it seems like the position lines are way off.
For example here (but many other segments as well) the green line shows me not even coming close to the apex in T10, which I would never do unless maybe I'm going back to the paddock or letting someone by, but definitely not on my best lap of the data.
Is this a data problem or a bug in the system? I've noticed the lines shown seem really far off from reality. What would cause this?
(Forgive me I was driving my Elise that day and not my Porsche, but I doubt that was the problem!)
Looks like low quality GPS, like the unit was under the dash cover or behind the windshield top rear vertical plane. Honestly, that portion of the track use is the least useful part of the session review. Look at the position tab (IIRC) and see if it suggests earlier or later turn ins and apices.
Its hard to get used to the comparison to the average of fast laps instead of THE fastest lap, as a reference, but in actuality, it’s a better coaching metric.
__________________ -Peter Krause www.peterkrause.net www.gofasternow.com
"Combining the Art and Science of Driving Fast!"
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Here was my mounting position, perhaps there was some interference or something...first time user error I suppose of not checking the GPS signal. It should have been far enough forward (see suction cup position) for a clear view of the sky but perhaps not.
Here was my mounting position, perhaps there was some interference or something...first time user error I suppose of not checking the GPS signal. It should have been far enough forward (see suction cup position) for a clear view of the sky but perhaps not.
I get BS squiggles all the time, in every section, in every session. I don't even look at that part, as it's rather useless. The only actionable part for me is the braking location, and minimum speed. Even the apex and turn in that the machine indicates will be off 50+% of the time. It's really best as a lap timer and video recorder.
Last edited by WP0; 04-06-2021 at 07:27 AM.
Reason: sp
No, I think the mounting position is pretty optimal. That looks good.
All your videos play? Complete optimal lap replay?
Actually no, some show "missing video" and the optimal lap does play but it appears to all be a single lap rather than a stitched together ideal lap video. So definitely something weird was going on. It was my first time using this (borrowed it from a friend) so possibly I didn't have a good connection to the camera or something? There is a lot of video footage, but some files are missing.
@ProCoach actually I think I just figured it out...loose cigarette outlet connection. In the Lotus they used some oddball sized cigarette outlet so most adaptors fit sort of loosely in it, which is fine in normal driving but at the track it can rattle loose.
When the Garmin loses power, the tablet stays on (due to the battery in it), but the camera powers off. So that explains the video issues.
FWIW - Spoke with Garmin support yesterday, and I'm not the only one (or 100) to ask when they're going to enable export with overlay. Obviously, no definitive answer was offered, but some allusion to the fact that "we get it; we're working on it" was provided. So, we shall see . . .
FWIW - Spoke with Garmin support yesterday, and I'm not the only one (or 100) to ask when they're going to enable export with overlay. Obviously, no definitive answer was offered, but some allusion to the fact that "we get it; we're working on it" was provided. So, we shall see . . .
@ProCoach actually I think I just figured it out...loose cigarette outlet connection. In the Lotus they used some oddball sized cigarette outlet so most adaptors fit sort of loosely in it, which is fine in normal driving but at the track it can rattle loose.
When the Garmin loses power, the tablet stays on (due to the battery in it), but the camera powers off. So that explains the video issues.
I wonder if the GPS is somehow related too?
It definitely uses the video to establish where you are on the track with respect to the track edges so losing the camera will throw off these lines as well. GPS just isn't THAT accurate, which is why the AI uses the video.
It definitely uses the video to establish where you are on the track with respect to the track edges so losing the camera will throw off these lines as well. GPS just isn't THAT accurate, which is why the AI uses the video.
Oh that's good to know and answers my other question about why I can't mount the camera inside the car to record my driving inputs as well. (e.g. mounting the camera on my rear window).
@ProCoach actually I think I just figured it out...loose cigarette outlet connection. In the Lotus they used some oddball sized cigarette outlet so most adaptors fit sort of loosely in it, which is fine in normal driving but at the track it can rattle loose.
When the Garmin loses power, the tablet stays on (due to the battery in it), but the camera powers off. So that explains the video issues.
I wonder if the GPS is somehow related too?
This doesn't compute...the Garmin Catalyst will perform just fine without a connection to the cigarette lighter, ASSUMING the Garmin Catalyst has been fully charged. That is my understanding..validated by my experience. I have run my Garmin Catalyst without a commotion to the car's 12 V source. If I am wrong here, PROCOACH will spank me.
04-04-2021, 02:33 PM
