Cautionary Tale of Oil Leak (timing cover)
#316
although the bolt is the main focus, but once the oil leak starts, you'll also need to replace the gasket since it had been compromised otherwise you'll still get non stop seepage
there are 17 bolts on the TCC, you can replace some with the engine in place, but not all.
replacing a few bolts is just a band aid fix, a permanent repair required the engine out per PCNA
there are 17 bolts on the TCC, you can replace some with the engine in place, but not all.
replacing a few bolts is just a band aid fix, a permanent repair required the engine out per PCNA
#317
2015 macan turbo. Had the car a year and it has the leak as confined when on a lift at my Indy for oil change. I have around 10 months left of CPO coverage so I will attempt to get it fixed under warranty. What’s the best way to approach that?
#318
You will not have any issues on having the TCC leak repaired under warranty. If you have a 'relationship' with an SA at your local Porsche dealership, call or email. Worse case, pick up a phone, call to schedule an appointment and ensure you will get a loaner for the duration. Make sure you have a DL, CC and proof of insurance in your pocket when you drop it off.
#319
You will not have any issues on having the TCC leak repaired under warranty. If you have a 'relationship' with an SA at your local Porsche dealership, call or email. Worse case, pick up a phone, call to schedule an appointment and ensure you will get a loaner for the duration. Make sure you have a DL, CC and proof of insurance in your pocket when you drop it off.
#320
#321
#322
Ok, so I spoke to my SA and he gave me two options. He said the first option takes about a day and they just retorque and replace the bolts. The second option... the option I have read about with the engine out and reseal and replacing bolts etc he told me would take 1.5 months! Anyway, I went with the second option. I figured if they gave me a loaner for that whole time no skin off my back. He gave me the impression that the first option would fix the issue and some people don't want their engine removed for the fix etc. That is a bunch of crap right? If I'm going to have the fix done under warranty I want it done the "correct" way so I made the right call going with the second option? The kicker is that they can't get the car in until September.
#323
Ok, so I spoke to my SA and he gave me two options. He said the first option takes about a day and they just retorque and replace the bolts. The second option... the option I have read about with the engine out and reseal and replacing bolts etc he told me would take 1.5 months! Anyway, I went with the second option. I figured if they gave me a loaner for that whole time no skin off my back. He gave me the impression that the first option would fix the issue and some people don't want their engine removed for the fix etc. That is a bunch of crap right? If I'm going to have the fix done under warranty I want it done the "correct" way so I made the right call going with the second option? The kicker is that they can't get the car in until September.
The actual labor of the second option should really only take about a week or two once they have the parts and an available engine stand. Ask what is the exact cause of the 1.5 months. The leak isn't really a safety issue so you can continue to drive the car. Again, my service advisor told me that he would not need me to leave my car with them until he has the parts and the engine stand available. It's not in anyone's best interest to have a customer car sit in the back lot of the dealer for that long. There's no way they will store it protected inside the shop for that long all the bays are needed for other jobs so it will sit outside and then moved in for the actual work. Is this some tiny dealership? Maybe you need to check around for a larger dealership.
#324
First option is what you do if you are out of warranty so you need to foot the bill yourself and just want to buy some more time to keep it longer or just fix it enough to get top dollar on trade in since it won't visibly leak for a bit. My understanding from my service advisor was that the first option was the original recommendation on the repair until cars came back again so Porsche revised the bulletin to do the full engine out service.
The actual labor of the second option should really only take about a week or two once they have the parts and an available engine stand. Ask what is the exact cause of the 1.5 months. The leak isn't really a safety issue so you can continue to drive the car. Again, my service advisor told me that he would not need me to leave my car with them until he has the parts and the engine stand available. It's not in anyone's best interest to have a customer car sit in the back lot of the dealer for that long. There's no way they will store it protected inside the shop for that long all the bays are needed for other jobs so it will sit outside and then moved in for the actual work. Is this some tiny dealership? Maybe you need to check around for a larger dealership.
The actual labor of the second option should really only take about a week or two once they have the parts and an available engine stand. Ask what is the exact cause of the 1.5 months. The leak isn't really a safety issue so you can continue to drive the car. Again, my service advisor told me that he would not need me to leave my car with them until he has the parts and the engine stand available. It's not in anyone's best interest to have a customer car sit in the back lot of the dealer for that long. There's no way they will store it protected inside the shop for that long all the bays are needed for other jobs so it will sit outside and then moved in for the actual work. Is this some tiny dealership? Maybe you need to check around for a larger dealership.
#325
First option is what you do if you are out of warranty so you need to foot the bill yourself and just want to buy some more time to keep it longer or just fix it enough to get top dollar on trade in since it won't visibly leak for a bit. My understanding from my service advisor was that the first option was the original recommendation on the repair until cars came back again so Porsche revised the bulletin to do the full engine out service.
The actual labor of the second option should really only take about a week or two once they have the parts and an available engine stand. Ask what is the exact cause of the 1.5 months. The leak isn't really a safety issue so you can continue to drive the car. Again, my service advisor told me that he would not need me to leave my car with them until he has the parts and the engine stand available. It's not in anyone's best interest to have a customer car sit in the back lot of the dealer for that long. There's no way they will store it protected inside the shop for that long all the bays are needed for other jobs so it will sit outside and then moved in for the actual work. Is this some tiny dealership? Maybe you need to check around for a larger dealership.
The actual labor of the second option should really only take about a week or two once they have the parts and an available engine stand. Ask what is the exact cause of the 1.5 months. The leak isn't really a safety issue so you can continue to drive the car. Again, my service advisor told me that he would not need me to leave my car with them until he has the parts and the engine stand available. It's not in anyone's best interest to have a customer car sit in the back lot of the dealer for that long. There's no way they will store it protected inside the shop for that long all the bays are needed for other jobs so it will sit outside and then moved in for the actual work. Is this some tiny dealership? Maybe you need to check around for a larger dealership.
#326
Ok, so I spoke to my SA and he gave me two options. He said the first option takes about a day and they just retorque and replace the bolts. The second option... the option I have read about with the engine out and reseal and replacing bolts etc he told me would take 1.5 months! Anyway, I went with the second option. I figured if they gave me a loaner for that whole time no skin off my back. He gave me the impression that the first option would fix the issue and some people don't want their engine removed for the fix etc. That is a bunch of crap right? If I'm going to have the fix done under warranty I want it done the "correct" way so I made the right call going with the second option? The kicker is that they can't get the car in until September.
You're luckier than I do, my 17 S is also scheduled to have it done in mid September but I had been in line since early April
#328
Just got my 2017 Macan S back from dealer who repaired the leaking Timing Chain Cover. Took the 7 days but had to wait 7 weeks before they could begin the work due to a loaner shortage. They did remove the engine, drain the oil, coolant and evacuated the AC. Hope there are no future issues from the work they did. Always hate it when the factory AC charge is messed with because it doesn’t seem to cool as good as before.
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2021Macan (08-03-2021)
#329
Another data point for this discussion.
2018 Macan S in service since 9/2017. Developed an oil leak a few months ago but waited until the 40k service to bring it in. Dealer said the usual wait is 4 weeks or more for available engine stands. Since I already had a loaner for the 40k they prioritized it and went ahead with the repair. Took 8 days start to finish. All seems fine now. They also threw in some Porsche swag for the inconvenience. Very pleased with their attitude and service. Porsche of Fairfield, CT.
2018 Macan S in service since 9/2017. Developed an oil leak a few months ago but waited until the 40k service to bring it in. Dealer said the usual wait is 4 weeks or more for available engine stands. Since I already had a loaner for the 40k they prioritized it and went ahead with the repair. Took 8 days start to finish. All seems fine now. They also threw in some Porsche swag for the inconvenience. Very pleased with their attitude and service. Porsche of Fairfield, CT.
#330
Vehicle: 2016 Cayenne GTS (3.6L TT) / mileage: 38K / leak discovered ~7K miles ago
What is the technical harm in not correcting a leaky timing cover?
I read most the above but didn’t see this question either asked or answered. And I don’t intend this question to be rhetorical, sarcastic, or attempting to “troll” in some manner. Truly curious to know the tradeoff in risk for not having the engine pulled and new (potentially still faulty) bolts put back in? The obvious outcomes of not performing the repair are 1) the engine will leak oil and that is messy 2) the engine will leak oil and “at this price we should expect perfection”. But what are the other real or potential unfavorable outcomes? Do other components on the front belt assembly get fouled due to oil and thus fail? Is there chance of complete timing cover failure / separation thus potential for catastrophic engine failure? I don’t know thus why I’m asking.
What is the technical harm in not correcting a leaky timing cover?
I read most the above but didn’t see this question either asked or answered. And I don’t intend this question to be rhetorical, sarcastic, or attempting to “troll” in some manner. Truly curious to know the tradeoff in risk for not having the engine pulled and new (potentially still faulty) bolts put back in? The obvious outcomes of not performing the repair are 1) the engine will leak oil and that is messy 2) the engine will leak oil and “at this price we should expect perfection”. But what are the other real or potential unfavorable outcomes? Do other components on the front belt assembly get fouled due to oil and thus fail? Is there chance of complete timing cover failure / separation thus potential for catastrophic engine failure? I don’t know thus why I’m asking.
Last edited by D3RP; 08-18-2021 at 02:30 PM.