Diesel Cayenne and VW emission issue
#6196
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Just completed a 2800 mile round trip and got an average of 34.6 for the trip highway ( legal speeds up to 75) and in town. It is a 2015 CD and has the fix. the only issue is the transmission is lazy on deceleration. What I mean is you slow for traffic and the transmission does not correspondingly downshift so if you have to change lanes and briskly accelerate there is a pause as the transmion finally downshifts to the proper gear. I have gotten into the habit of manual downshifting as I slow leaving the gear selector in the auto mode. Other than that still very happy with the '15 which now has 60,000 miles and its sister my wife '14 CD with 93,000. Still years and miles of warranty on both
#6197
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My 15 is a bit pokey on the throttle but always was. The fix to the transmission was dramatic and unlike your car. Mine does not lug the engine anymore, just the opposite. You are describing pre-fix transmission behavior where the transmission would lug the engine all the time. It is like they only flashed your ECU and not the TCU. I get one buck during warm up and then it behaves itself. Post fix I've had the DPF and EGR replaced after power loss & CEL.
I'll have to ask next time I bring it in.
#6198
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Honestly probably not enough market for it. Of those with a 3.0TDI SUV.... how many really want to hotrod them? In the VAG gas community, there's a bit more (2.0T tunes all over the place) but given most of the 3.0TDI's are "luxury" vehicles (vs. sporty fun toys) I doubt there's really enough.
Still... it can't hurt.
Still... it can't hurt.
#6199
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Would actually make sense.
Though I definitely do get the high revs and unlocked converter in 3rd when it’s cold.
#6200
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My CD just sprang a bad oil leak this weekend. I'm at 109k miles.. assuming it is the bell housing problem that many people have experienced, is that covered under the long block warranty from the diesel settlement?
Thanks in advance as I am worried about how much this will cost out of pocket.
Thanks in advance as I am worried about how much this will cost out of pocket.
#6201
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My CD just sprang a bad oil leak this weekend. I'm at 109k miles.. assuming it is the bell housing problem that many people have experienced, is that covered under the long block warranty from the diesel settlement?
Thanks in advance as I am worried about how much this will cost out of pocket.
Thanks in advance as I am worried about how much this will cost out of pocket.
What has recently been done to the car? Maybe the oil filter housing is leaking.
The leak at the back of the engine ( timing cover(s) sealant issue ) is an engine out repair escapade. I don't know if the diesel settlement warranty would cover this failure but I doubt it.
#6202
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My CD just sprang a bad oil leak this weekend. I'm at 109k miles.. assuming it is the bell housing problem that many people have experienced, is that covered under the long block warranty from the diesel settlement?
Thanks in advance as I am worried about how much this will cost out of pocket.
Thanks in advance as I am worried about how much this will cost out of pocket.
#6203
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I cannot tell where it is leaking from. Definitely not the oil filter housing. I can see a little bit of moisture on the tray looking from the top of the engine bay. The engine itself seems dry. Right now the car is on a slight incline and it is coming out from the front under tray area. The rear under tray and cross bars are all soaked as well...
Wouldn't the long block warranty cover something like this? This car was amazing until 95k miles and then suddenly a money pit. It stinks because it has new brakes all around, new tires, all maintenance performed by the book for the entire life of the car. It's had 10k+ in repairs since 95k, which is insane. Cost per mile is not attractive.
If I have to, what do I do to trade it? Clean the bottom and bring it to a dealer and do the trade hoping they won't notice? I think trade-in is weak on it now... 14.5k from about 2-3 months ago whereas I think private party is pretty good (KBB says 23k... which seems optimistic). I was planning on keeping the car for another few years, except I'm not paying for an engine-out repair.
Wouldn't the long block warranty cover something like this? This car was amazing until 95k miles and then suddenly a money pit. It stinks because it has new brakes all around, new tires, all maintenance performed by the book for the entire life of the car. It's had 10k+ in repairs since 95k, which is insane. Cost per mile is not attractive.
If I have to, what do I do to trade it? Clean the bottom and bring it to a dealer and do the trade hoping they won't notice? I think trade-in is weak on it now... 14.5k from about 2-3 months ago whereas I think private party is pretty good (KBB says 23k... which seems optimistic). I was planning on keeping the car for another few years, except I'm not paying for an engine-out repair.
#6204
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I cannot tell where it is leaking from. Definitely not the oil filter housing. I can see a little bit of moisture on the tray looking from the top of the engine bay. The engine itself seems dry. Right now the car is on a slight incline and it is coming out from the front under tray area. The rear under tray and cross bars are all soaked as well...
Wouldn't the long block warranty cover something like this? This car was amazing until 95k miles and then suddenly a money pit. It stinks because it has new brakes all around, new tires, all maintenance performed by the book for the entire life of the car. It's had 10k+ in repairs since 95k, which is insane. Cost per mile is not attractive.
If I have to, what do I do to trade it? Clean the bottom and bring it to a dealer and do the trade hoping they won't notice? I think trade-in is weak on it now... 14.5k from about 2-3 months ago whereas I think private party is pretty good (KBB says 23k... which seems optimistic). I was planning on keeping the car for another few years, except I'm not paying for an engine-out repair.
Wouldn't the long block warranty cover something like this? This car was amazing until 95k miles and then suddenly a money pit. It stinks because it has new brakes all around, new tires, all maintenance performed by the book for the entire life of the car. It's had 10k+ in repairs since 95k, which is insane. Cost per mile is not attractive.
If I have to, what do I do to trade it? Clean the bottom and bring it to a dealer and do the trade hoping they won't notice? I think trade-in is weak on it now... 14.5k from about 2-3 months ago whereas I think private party is pretty good (KBB says 23k... which seems optimistic). I was planning on keeping the car for another few years, except I'm not paying for an engine-out repair.
#6205
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Sorry to here about your Cayenne Diesel.
Food for thought!
One thing you might want to do is remove the 2 plastic Skid Pans under the Bumper and Engine, then inspect the Intercooler hose's at each end of their attachment locations.
In particular the Intercoolers themselves, these hold and trap the oil that's passed through by Blow By caused by Crank Case pressures during normal combustion cycles.
Although our engines have a form of coalescing the oil vapour from pressured gases at the top of the passenger side Valve cover, I firmly believe these are pretty woeful, especially as the miles mount up plus who Knows how much has changed internally after the so called Emissions Fix.
As I've mentioned before on the forum the only fix is to install a Mann Pro Vent 200 filter system (Oil Catch Can) to some people.
I have recently purchased the appropriate Orings to allow me too disassemble the whole Intercooler system and throughly clean every thing before fitting my Mann Pro Vent Filter.
Food for thought!
One thing you might want to do is remove the 2 plastic Skid Pans under the Bumper and Engine, then inspect the Intercooler hose's at each end of their attachment locations.
In particular the Intercoolers themselves, these hold and trap the oil that's passed through by Blow By caused by Crank Case pressures during normal combustion cycles.
Although our engines have a form of coalescing the oil vapour from pressured gases at the top of the passenger side Valve cover, I firmly believe these are pretty woeful, especially as the miles mount up plus who Knows how much has changed internally after the so called Emissions Fix.
As I've mentioned before on the forum the only fix is to install a Mann Pro Vent 200 filter system (Oil Catch Can) to some people.
I have recently purchased the appropriate Orings to allow me too disassemble the whole Intercooler system and throughly clean every thing before fitting my Mann Pro Vent Filter.
#6206
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I cannot tell where it is leaking from. Definitely not the oil filter housing. I can see a little bit of moisture on the tray looking from the top of the engine bay. The engine itself seems dry. Right now the car is on a slight incline and it is coming out from the front under tray area. The rear under tray and cross bars are all soaked as well...
Wouldn't the long block warranty cover something like this? This car was amazing until 95k miles and then suddenly a money pit. It stinks because it has new brakes all around, new tires, all maintenance performed by the book for the entire life of the car. It's had 10k+ in repairs since 95k, which is insane. Cost per mile is not attractive.
If I have to, what do I do to trade it? Clean the bottom and bring it to a dealer and do the trade hoping they won't notice? I think trade-in is weak on it now... 14.5k from about 2-3 months ago whereas I think private party is pretty good (KBB says 23k... which seems optimistic). I was planning on keeping the car for another few years, except I'm not paying for an engine-out repair.
Wouldn't the long block warranty cover something like this? This car was amazing until 95k miles and then suddenly a money pit. It stinks because it has new brakes all around, new tires, all maintenance performed by the book for the entire life of the car. It's had 10k+ in repairs since 95k, which is insane. Cost per mile is not attractive.
If I have to, what do I do to trade it? Clean the bottom and bring it to a dealer and do the trade hoping they won't notice? I think trade-in is weak on it now... 14.5k from about 2-3 months ago whereas I think private party is pretty good (KBB says 23k... which seems optimistic). I was planning on keeping the car for another few years, except I'm not paying for an engine-out repair.
But... I just had the oil changed on one of mine and the crush ring didn't seat properly causing a leak. Took it back, they replaced the crush ring and no more leak. If you recently had the oil changed, worth checking that out.
#6207
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Thanks all. I guess I'll take it to the local dealer (Porsche towing or AAA?) and see what they say. The oil is really coming out of it... it just started yesterday, about 3-4k after our last oil change, so it's not from a crush washer failing. I only have a lightweight racing jack so getting the car high enough to work on it may be an issue. I was literally going to buy a trailer tomorrow and now I may have to tie up capital with this problem. I've put too much time/money into it this year and I keep thinking "but everything is done" and more stupid stuff comes up. The car is in great shape too inside and out.
#6208
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You know, I just re-read the booklet and I'm thinking that maybe it would be covered.
The warranty states that it covers, "any component which can reasonably be impacted by effects of the emissions modification." And also covers the ECU and TCU. So by extension, if the TCU is covered, along with the short block assembly, you could argue that the fix's impact to the transmission and its shifting (i.e. the 3rd gear limit when cold, hard shifts if you force it, etc) could certainly impact the bell housing's fit and seal.
The warranty states that it covers, "any component which can reasonably be impacted by effects of the emissions modification." And also covers the ECU and TCU. So by extension, if the TCU is covered, along with the short block assembly, you could argue that the fix's impact to the transmission and its shifting (i.e. the 3rd gear limit when cold, hard shifts if you force it, etc) could certainly impact the bell housing's fit and seal.
#6209
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[QUOTE=skiahh;15870898]You know, I just re-read the booklet and I'm thinking that maybe it would be covered.
The warranty states that it covers, "any component which can reasonably be impacted by effects of the emissions modification." And also covers the ECU and TCU. So by extension, if the TCU is covered, along with the short block assembly, you could argue that the fix's impact to the transmission and its shifting (i.e. the 3rd gear limit when cold, hard shifts if you force it, etc) could certainly impact the bell housing's fit and.
The warranty states that it covers, "any component which can reasonably be impacted by effects of the emissions modification." And also covers the ECU and TCU. So by extension, if the TCU is covered, along with the short block assembly, you could argue that the fix's impact to the transmission and its shifting (i.e. the 3rd gear limit when cold, hard shifts if you force it, etc) could certainly impact the bell housing's fit and.
#6210
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I think that's a real stretch. The fitment of two metal surfaces isn't going to be affected by how the tranny shifts. It's worth a try but I wouldn't have any expectations...