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There's nothing special about that one other than having to remove the AC compressor to do it.
Do them 1 at a time so you never have 2 tensioners out at the same time. Lock the cams, lock the crank pulley, then remove one and install the new one, remove the next one and install the new one, remove the last one and install the new one.
You'll need new plugs on hand to replace the 2 that you have to remove to install the cam lock tool on the bank 1 side of the engine as they are sacrificed when removed.
I also found that pumping the tensioners with oil prior to install like some suggest makes them almost impossible to install, so I wouldn't do that.(and didn't). The spring tension should hold the chain tension just fine.
I would say it’s more involved than just removal of the AC.
I had to remove the AC, the pass side aos, the high pressure power steering line, and the AC mount extension to get here. I ended up removing the power steering reservoir too even though it wasn’t needed to remove the AC it making getting it back in way easier. I pumped up the first 2 and agree you have to push really hard but I didn’t find it impossible.
I would say it’s more involved than just removal of the AC.
I had to remove the AC, the pass side aos, the high pressure power steering line, and the AC mount extension to get here. I ended up removing the power steering reservoir too even though it wasn’t needed to remove the AC it making getting it back in way easier. I pumped up the first 2 and agree you have to push really hard but I didn’t find it impossible.
I was going to pump this too one too.
Hmmm🤔 ….sounds like something I’d farm out to an Indy. What’s the “recommended change interval” or the symptoms that trigger this kind of maintenance?
Hmmm🤔 ….sounds like something I’d farm out to an Indy. What’s the “recommended change interval” or the symptoms that trigger this kind of maintenance?
I changed mine at 60k miles, but partly because I already had a bunch of stuff apart from another job. My wife's is at 110k on the originals and planning to do hers soon when hwr AOS parts come and I replace her starter.
I'd say 75k is a good recommended replacement interval.
Symptoms for when it has to be done is any chain rattler for a couple seconds when the car is first started. The tensioners are both hydraulic and spring loaded. The spring is supposed to supply tension until the oil pressure builds up and takes over. If the spring gets lazy that chain noises on first start will destroy the plastic chain guide tensioner paddles and if they break-off or wear out, the chain will ride on the metal tensioner paddle and that will last for 1/2 a drive.
I changed mine at 60k miles, but partly because I already had a bunch of stuff apart from another job. My wife's is at 110k on the originals and planning to do hers soon when hwr AOS parts come and I replace her starter.
I'd say 75k is a good recommended replacement interval.
Symptoms for when it has to be done is any chain rattler for a couple seconds when the car is first started. The tensioners are both hydraulic and spring loaded. The spring is supposed to supply tension until the oil pressure builds up and takes over. If the spring gets lazy that chain noises on first start will destroy the plastic chain guide tensioner paddles and if they break-off or wear out, the chain will ride on the metal tensioner paddle and that will last for 1/2 a drive.
Great looking wheels. Are they cast or forged? They look similar to my Forgeline wheels as does your whole car package except I don't have the wing. I couldn't see the gold in the wheels at first but saw it in the close up. Nice and discreet. Just right.
Thanks @sandwedge. I like your Forgelines too. Definitely a nice improvement from the stock spyders. Regarding cast vs forged, thats a good question and I don't know. They are OEM wheels off a 7.2 RS.
Speed holes! Prepped for 3rd radiator install on my 2009 C2 Radiator mounted Rennin grill mesh installed I did not use the provided clips for the center grill, found it fit a lot better without them, not sure what others have done but this worked for me. EMC2s adapters in place, ready for final bumper install Mesh in, and looks really nice; and i forgot to take a final installed picture, but got it all back and working
Function First Shift Right Solution and Cable Ends
It has been a little over two months since I installed the cable ends and one month since I installed the Shift Right Solution (SRS) from Function First. Bought both Black Friday for about $400. Now that my wife and I have some time on them I want to reiterate our satisfaction with these mods. Neither was very difficult. Shifting is much smoother and more direct. Much, although not all, of the 1st gear 'knotchiness' has gone away. Just feel this is really nice improvement for the time and $$s expended.
It has been a little over two months since I installed the cable ends and one month since I installed the Shift Right Solution (SRS) from Function First. Bought both Black Friday for about $400. Now that my wife and I have some time on them I want to reiterate our satisfaction with these mods. Neither was very difficult. Shifting is much smoother and more direct. Much, although not all, of the 1st gear 'knotchiness' has gone away. Just feel this is really nice improvement for the time and $$s expended.
I agree! I did both and they make a nice difference that you can feel every time you shift.
Thanks @sandwedge. I like your Forgelines too. Definitely a nice improvement from the stock spyders. Regarding cast vs forged, thats a good question and I don't know. They are OEM wheels off a 7.2 RS.
The 997.2 GT3 wheels are narrow body offsets. The 2/3 RS wheels are 9 ET 47 and 12 ET 48.
I am about to spring for an un-sprung weight savings of 22.8 lbs and a set of NO Spec 245/325 MPSC2 tires.
OZ Forgiata 9 & 12 X 19 wheels are F 18.3 lbs and R 22.3 lbs. Existing form flow OZ in 9 & 12 X 19 are 24 / 28 lbs. The OEM RS Spyders were narrower (8.5 & 11 X 19) and weighed 22.7 & 26.5 lbs
For reference, OEM 997.2 C/L wheels:
Stock OEM Turbo Wheels 8.5x19" 23 lbs. 8 oz 11x19" 27 lbs. 14 oz.
Factory 997 GT3 8.5x19" 24 lbs. 5 oz. 12x19" 30 lbs. 13 oz.
Holy grail application is BBS F1 wheels at 16 lbs front and 19 rear (8.75 & 12 X 19)
Last edited by Liste-Renn; 02-13-2023 at 04:39 PM.
Slats are in. Always a pain. Wonder if people would pay if I bought up some broken ones, fixed and painted. Might try that
Sooo, upon installing in the car turns out the lock/unlock button would get stuck. Too much paint so be careful there. I sanded the opening being careful but no luck. I then saw some dimples on the plastic. No idea what they’re for but ground them down and all is good. Here’s a pic in case someone runs into this in the future:
02-11-2023, 10:09 PM
