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I have Bose, but had this same message when I installed my SD card the first go-round. Never got it past the initial configuration. Returned the SD card and installed a new one and it worked fine. Might want to return your card and try a new one, which is easy to do. Good luck.
Just to clarify, is "H" needed at all if your car is equipped with Sound Package Plus or Bose? My car has factory nav and I'm wondering if it's needed to loop out the old nav unit.
I'll also try a new SD card to see if that resolves my nav startup issues.
Just to clarify, is "H" needed at all if your car is equipped with Sound Package Plus or Bose? My car has factory nav and I'm wondering if it's needed to loop out the old nav unit.
I'll also try a new SD card to see if that resolves my nav startup issues.
Yes, if you have factory nav you need to use the loop. I believe the directions are in the pinned diy guide.
H is not needed as C handles all MOST requirements including the original Navigation. Some cars come with original phone, CD changer, Nav etc. without C you would need multiple H cables and so on.
Thats right.
It is the display Flat Cable connection that stopped me.
From the photo (excellent - thanks!) that looks like a flip up ZIF connector - did you try to flip up the tab? Any other tips to get to the point in the photo?
I'm going to deal with the same issue - except I need to match sand beige leather so lines and gaps will be much more obvious.
Hi all,
can anyone elaborate on the settings for the internal and external mics in this so called Developer menue. Especially what ist meant with PGA, UPLINK and OP?
I maxed out PGA and UPLINK following the DIY-Guide, but I didn't realize any significant change in soundqualitiy and volume ....or am I deaf?? Having a call with top and windows down is nearly impossible. Any help is appreciated.
THX
@Ryany08 you can get someone to help you & press all 4 tabs simultaneously. Or you can use micro wrench for Allen screws. They are not Quarter turn, so you’ll need to turn them all the way - which will take some time & patience. Tip - I recall it’s the opposite direction of the PCM radio.
I cranked in top two screws all the way in, so top tabs are depressed all the time. Much easier to access bottom tabs if I need to remove.
hope this helps.
Originally Posted by Ryany08
How do you remove the PCCM+ once you 'click it' in place. Having a difficult time removing and wondering if I did the above by accident?
Are you meant to push the tabs in together? As the alley key approach for the PCM doesn't seem to work for the PCCM +
@Ryany08 you can get someone to help you & press all 4 tabs simultaneously. Or you can use micro wrench for Allen screws. They are not Quarter turn, so you’ll need to turn them all the way - which will take some time & patience. Tip - I recall it’s the opposite direction of the PCM radio.
I cranked in top two screws all the way in, so top tabs are depressed all the time. Much easier to access bottom tabs if I need to remove.
hope this helps.
Thanks it does indeed ended up screwing the allen screws - took an eternity given their location but got it out. Thank you, super helpful!
06-03-2023, 04:33 PM
