myw

Hello!

ill try to go thru ur questions best i can.

- the only thing i can think of is the most adapter - it requires a ground splice into the non-factory harness. how did you do the splice ??? is it possible to create a separate direct ground splice from the bolt beside the kick panel and ground the most-box to that? I don't think it's the unit as main harness for all the connections (included power / ground) is plug + play. I do have a very minor whine when the car isnt driving - but in general it's not noticable.

- yes a dials + ***** version of the android pcm's was sorely lacking. with the steering wheel controls it was fine but on my brothers car (no MF steering wheel) it was horrible

- did you paint your center stack black to match? alot of ppl (including myself) heavily dislike the volcano grey - i painted mine GT silver. i had the new one designed so that the entire fascia is removable for painting.

- all the high end android units for 3-4 years now ALL have built in carplay/AA. no separate module needed

- you have the correct link. use code MYWOCM to get a few extra dollars off.

- android 9.0+ supports AHD cameras. you wont ever go back as they perform similar to oem backup cameras in recent years. the 480p cam was useable of course - but the AHD ones are so much more visually appeasing. the 20mm drill in ones are discrete - and for mine, the 480p ones used the same exterior casing as the newer AHD ones - so it was plop over the new one just like that

- no 4 Channel most box (yet) - altho I may be the first to get it working on my car as I will modify the oem one sometime this year to get it to work in my car and then take it from there. I will also try to get the canbus decoding engineers to finally access the 2 not working MF buttons on the steering wheel.

with that said (as i have had many ppl asking behind the scenes) - I dont have any plans on getting any of the oem trip computer oem functions stuff to work - not only will the canBus readouts from the pccm+ need to be dissected, entirely new apps will need to be written to support this stuff..... it's all very custom software for only very limited vehicles when looking at the big picture. not to mention the 955 pccm+ units are throwing a CEL (not kidding) due to the addition of coveted features (thank goodness this isnt the case for the 997pccm+). imo the entire line of 955 pccms+ will need to be reshipped back to germany/china and completely reFlashed to correct this issue. if the official product cant get this stuff right... i aint going there.

leloupgris

Thanks for the reply.

For the ground I removed a ground from the non-factory harness by taking the pin out of the connector, soldered the MOST ground to it, heat-shrink on top and replaced the pin on its location. Same for the ACC and positive wires. It looks very clean that way (not that it really matters as it's hidden behind the HU but it calms my OCD). I know its from the MOST unit as I had MUCH WORSE wine in certain positions of the RCA cables. I tried my best to isolate the RCA from the power cables, but I still have whine. How have you wired yours?
If I remember correctly, I tried grounding it directly to somewhere in the cabin, but it was the same if not worse. So I just learned to live with it but it's very annoying. I think I read in this thread that someone put a ton of electrical tape around their wires to mitigate that. I might try it just for the sake of experiment, didn't know electrical tape could block off electromagnegtic fields.

No I did not. I haven't done any painting yet but the idea has crossed my mind on several occasions. Specially my center console where the plastic because it's old became kinda soft on the surface (almost rubbery), and scratch marks are way more visible.but that's an idea.

Okay, so a follow-up question: do the AHD cameras use the same cables than the 480p cameras (RCA, positive & negative)? Or if I change mine, will need to re-wire everything? Not a huge work, but it's better to know in advance. And it will actually give me the opportunity to change my current setup from power from the tail light to power directly from the HU ( I noticed once I already installed the camera that the HU had wiring to power the camera). And a second question, do you have a link for the drill camera you're speaking about? I've seen a few pictures here and indeed it looks very nice. I might change from the licence plate light mounted one, as it looks better.

Okay so in THEORY, if the OEM MOST box (4 channel) is ever cracked down the line, people with non fader MOST boxes (2 channels) could just get a newer chinese reverse engineered 4-channel MOST box and swap it and call it a day, right? Since it's analogic, as long as your HU supports 4 channel I don't see why it would not work.

EDIT: forgot a last point
Thanks I will do. Last question I hope: Qualcomm or Rockchip processor?

Thanks again for the replies.

myw

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...l#post17543994

I wired mine exactly as the post above I wrote a few years back. Manual splices with tape.

normally it is the ground that is insufficient but yours seems to be done well.

painting the lower console + center stack will do wonders imho to enhance the interior.

The ahd cams use the same old rca cables as before. You can always use the rca cable red wire as the power cable and get the reverse trigger from the kick panel if you don’t want to rewire another cable from the rear as it’s a pita.

I will try to find a link for the camera the next time I’m in front of a computer.

and yes - the 4 channel most adapter has to work. it is only analog outs that are transfered - it’s just a matter of figuring out the pin designations. It may even be possible to release 2 types of harnesses - one that bypasses the 4 rca connections + maybe in even the switched pWr+Gnd

marshy19

@leloupgris
here is a link to the camera that myw mentioned.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32568...andl_shipto=US
It has the bit included. Looking at adding one in the front but still considering mounting options. I need it as i'm not nice to my front bumper....


If you contact the seller (same one that sells the head unit - Owtosin) also seems they have options for wireless. He replies back very quickly!

OR

Another vendor option for wireless.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/22518...andl_shipto=US

PajamaShark

Just installed the latest OwTowsin unit into my 2007 997 Turbo. It looks pretty good and it's working well for the most part. Got the steering wheel buttons mapped without issue, and the sound quality is excellent (I have the Bose system). GPS signal is strong with the antenna on the driver side A-piller. I don't get the reverse signal over CANBUS unfortunately ('Prohibit Reverse' setting makes no difference), but I haven't had time to take apart the rear cabin to run the video cable yet (apparently more difficult on the Turbo cars...), so I'll just use the extra wire on the cable to make that work when I get around to it. I should probably double-check the crimp connection on those pink wires too, just in case...

Anyway, I do have two unresolved hangups:

The 4G wireless connection isn't working because the unit can't detect my SIM card via the included dongle. It's a Google Fi data SIM (which is effectively T-Moblie). I can tap the option in the settings menu and it just says "No SIM card detected, insert one and reboot". I inspected the dongle with a volt meter and verified that all the wires at the plug can make a circuit to the contacts in the card slot. Has anyone been able to get this to work? Perhaps a special option in the factory menu needs to be turned on? I'm also wondering if maybe the pins are in the wrong spot... there isn't a full pinout diagram of the SIM port on the back, and there are way more pins on the unit than wires in the connector. I don't suppose anyone who has this working has a close up picture of the SIM dongle plug?

Not having the 4G connection isn't the end of the world of course, but I was hoping to not have to mess with manually turning on my phone's hotspot every time I drive (need to find a way to automate that...). I suppose worst case scenario I could just rely on wireless Android Auto, which does work surprisingly well...

The other problem I've noticed is that when I make calls over BT, my voice seems to have a significant delay, where people on the other end hear what I'm saying a full 3 seconds or so after I say it, and they can sometimes hear themselves talking back through the line (the delay is probably messing up noise cancellation). The call quality is otherwise good, but the delay & feedback makes holding conversations difficult. I have the Enfig mic mounted in the factory location, and my phone is a Samsung Galaxy S21+. Happens via Android Auto or with the dialer on the device itself. I can make calls just fine with the same phone in my other car (2019 Genesis G70). Anyone else run into this?

Would definitely appreciate any advice! Thanks!

Other than those two issues I'm very satisfied with the device, especially given the price. It blows away the infotainment capabilities in my much more modern G70, that's for sure.

myw

reverse cam trigger does not go thru the canBus re Manual cars as there is no transControlModule. Feeding the reverse light 12v signal from the taillight / kick panel into either the primary (or 2ndary) reverse trigger (both pink wires on eitther the main harness or the camera specific harness) will trigger.

MAKE SURE to power the camera from the pcm and not the tailLight - the fCam app will then give you access to the rear cam (+front if installed) anytime (not just when in reverse). Id highly recommend installing both front + rear stealth cameras.

SIM 4g card slot should work (altho I havent tested) … that harness for the 4g adapter was used for an extra 2 usb inputs for up to android 10/11 units iirc.

As for the delay - there maybe a setting in the secret menu somewhere to adjust that - check thoroughly.

I’d also recommend using the unit in native OS and not android auto / CarPlay. You can do so much more (run any app Vs being restricted)

pls post a photo of the unit installed - keep in mind I had the unit designed so that the faceplate can be disassembled in full - for custom painting (oem leather wrap etc - if needed).

Graufuchs

Just ordered the OwTowsin C4 unit in the quest of wireless Carplay.

Not looking to add any cameras just the ability to connect the phone for Nav and Music. For $300 shipped, pretty good value especially after seeing that the PCCM unit uses an android system and similar hardware.

Thanks for all the work from everyone, lots of pages to dig through. Excited it will match the interior.

If the install goes to plan will order a second unit for the Red 997 that has a Bose system.

eclou

I am going to attempt installation today. Have a 997.1 turbo with Bose in North America. Question: Do I need to purchase a dual Fakra antenna adapter or just not connect the diversity antenna (yellow?)

eclou

Well I got the unit in and running. Had lots of previous wiring mods to undo - Parrot bluetooth installation by a custom shop from 2008 had wired in a phone mute/bypass. I had installed a previous Mobridge which required bypassing of the CD changer, and the Mobridge was converted to a Mr12volt more recently. This is on a PCM 2.1 Bose unit 2007 Turbo 997.1

Installation was pretty simple and I had power to the unit and bluetooth pairing but no audio sound. Found that the MOST converter was not getting power due to the crappy vampire taps I used. The gauge difference between the constant power (yellow) and ground (black) wiring did not lend itself well to getting a good connection so I soldered it the old fashioned way. I attached the wiring harness for the speaker outputs and connected the Front R&L to the MOST converter aux inputs.

Interestingly enough the sound quality is far better than the Becker headunit. I'm guessing the DSP in the Owtosin is much better, bc the soundstage is very much expanded and that's even before tweaking the amp equalizer. Very pleased so far and aim to tackle the F&R cameras tomorrow

eclou

Did the rear camera install today. 997.1 turbo manual so no CANBUS reverse trigger
1)soldered rear camera + to blue/black, - to brown
2)removed B/C pillars, side card panel, Bose subwoofer, rear package shelf to get exposure to the grommet rear drivers side. Fished coat hanger through to pull video cable through and then tucked it under the carpet to the console
3)plugged video cable into rear camera plug on PCM harness. Interposed the red power wire from the video cable in between the pink wires butt connection betwee the PCM harness and the Canbus.
4)"enabled" the rear camera prohibit query.
NO VIDEO still. I may go back and try to solder the red power wire to the pink wires at the PCM harness as someone else here had success only after soldering it

myw

rear cam should goto the cam power from the pcm. Otherwise fcam app will not work. Powering the cams from the pcm is the oem / new way compared to a few years back

black/blue backup light signal -> pink reverse trigger wire.

it will work

eclou

1)so rear cam go to cam power from the PCM - so the new PCM pink lead actually provides power to the rear camera? So its not a passive sensing wire but an active powered wire that triggers when fcam launches? If I don't have the CANBUS reverse trigger (07 997.1 manual) then will shifting into reverse not trigger the PCM? If so I should then tie the red wire from the camera bridging cable in front to the pink and in rear to the camera red input?

2)I read about being able to use the blue/black backup wire to trigger/power the rear camera red lead. This can be done front or back but regardless if done this way the camera will only power when the reverse light is on so fcam won't work correct? Shouldn't matter if the blue/black is sourced from the rear light or from the firewall/fuse circuit because is the same blue/black wire correct?

3) so you take the pink PCM wire and bridge it to the rear camera power. Then you run a separate bridge wire from the blue/black to the pink trigger wire off the harness? You don't tie the two pink wires together?

Funny thing is I got this to work on an old BOSS Audio double DIN on my 2001 Silverado pickup while hungover but somehow I can't figure it out on this 997 lol

eclou

SOLVED my rear camera issue.

The PCM was not getting any signal to trigger the camera input. I had not wired the red accessory wire of the video bridge cable to the rear tail power, so the PCM end was not feeding any trigger signal to the two pink rear camera wires of the PCM+Canbus.

So it works great upon shifting into reverse but Fcam won't recognize the rear camera bc its only "ON" when I shift into reverse. The only way that Fcam would work by my guess is if the camera was on constant power or acc power (blue acc power to red bridge video cable red wire) and then the reverse light signal from the blue/black triggers the pink trigger wire

Also I ditched the crappy license plate light camera holder. The fitment was poor and would not allow the bulb contacts to fully engage (no plate light function) and looked like an eye sore. So I just detached the camera itself and affixed with double sided tape

myw

the reverseLight signal goes into the pink reverse trigger input of the android pcm.

the camera power + camera ground goes into the black + red cables specifically in the video input harness (6 pin) of the android pcm.

this way everything will work to oem spec. the android pcm controls the power of camera(s), both when the car is in reverse AND via the fCam.

the pcm only supplies power to the camera during either of the above scenarios - if you power the cam to a constant 12v signal where the camera is always on... you will burn the cameras out early.

i believe ppl are misunderstanding the proper wiring of reverse cam systems in general and are burning out cameras constantly as many ppl are powering the cameras even when they arent used (constant 12v when the car is running). the Oem standard (even as per the 955 pccm+ porsche spec with no new wiring introduced) has the pccm+ power the camera only when it is needed.

myw

if not an Auto car, the only way the reverse mode gets triggered is if either pink wire (primary or 2ndary reverse trigger) receives a 12v+ signal from tge reverse light (as there will be no canBus reverse signal). The reverse light wire is the same color coded wire that physically is identical whether its from the taillight or kickpanel.

powering the cameras directly from the reverseLight signal is the aftermarket way of doing things (you may even notice a split second (green) error screen as the unit goes to reverse mode before the reverse camera fully powers up). there is an internal relay inside all android pcms that ensure that the oem method (the cameras are powered by the pcm a split second by the pcm, before the pcm engages in reverse input mode).

The cameras (both front + rear) are to be powered from teh same power + gnd leads coming out of the video specific 6 pin harness in the pcm. Hence, fCam app will now power on the cameras on demand.