Originally Posted by 2fcknfst

Pretty sure it drives on the wrong side...

Originally Posted by pfbz

25 years is an important milestone for importing cars into the US from other countries, but not an import duty issue...

Anything less than 25 years must comply with all Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards and has to be on a pre-existing list of list of eligible motor vehicles. You can have exceptions "show and display only" (expensive, impractical) or diplomatic temporary imports, but that aside, it effectively just can't be done.

After 25 years (from date of manufacture), the gloves come off and you can import almost anything.

The euro 996 GT3's are definitely prime candidates for thati 25 year plus importation, and the 996 GT3 RS in particular but that will be a few more years...

PS, i might be interested in your GT3, any details?

Originally Posted by pfbz

German car I thought?

Originally Posted by Lazurus

There are a couple of ways to achieve RWD and depending upon who you ask coupled with the desired results you seek. I've done a few things over the last many years. The quickest way to suddenly become one wheel drive is the simply remove the cardan shaft. If this is done without an LSD obviating the "open diff" situation, it is a complete waste of time and does nothing to improve traction, as in extreme driving the wheel with the lightest load gets no power and so you're essentially "one wheel drive". ( I'm most probably mangling this example but hoping it makes sense(?)

Think Pike's Peak or steep canyon uphills at speed in off camber corners, if both wheels don't lock in unison one wheel spins free, it's useless and even detrimental

The point is that if you simply remove the cardan add an LSD and even without altering the car's geometry made to accomodate the front diff etc, so with the GT3(?) uprights and stubbed axles, it will still be vastly improved over stock. IF a RWD capable car is what you seek you can opt for a proper plate type LSD or as I did, simply install a Wavetrac which is an astonishingly competent compromise that will allow for all the benefits that an LSD can provide.

There have been numerous debates over the methodologies to achieve RWD and "proper" ( uprights/axles etc etc ) VS the "cheater" method I have tried to describe and used with great joy myself for years. But the one thing no one will argue against? Is the idiocy of trying to drive the car simply with the cardan removed withOUT an LSD. With just a wavetrac installed I've spent many a day careening through and up steep canyons with the ability to "throttle steer". That is something you simply cannot do with the OEM AWD. Or at least, I couldn't. I also never "fully converted" because I knew at some time I'd want to revert back to AWD which I ended up doing as I knew I was taking the car into snow country.. In all of 15 minutes by simply re-installing the cardan shaft. ( Yes I still always had the add'l 60 lbs of the unused front diff still hanging - but I figured that'd offset the removal of the spare donut tire in the frunk ! )

Only other point in the debate re plate type Vs a TBD ( Torsen or Wavetrac and the Wtrac IS different than others - Read up on their stuff for the answers as to "why" ) But there is no "tailwag" I've experienced with the W'trac in downhill sudden braking/downshifting I could ever really notice, but anything can get you squirrely given the right or wrong "situation". But that's always been the take on the primary reason(s) to choose a plate type LSD rather than a W'trac or other TBD Torsen type - is to prevent or at least mitigate that and "tailwag".

I can't expound on the benefits of a 60/40 Motorsport "proper" LSD on the track, like for example Pwdrhound here, uses per se as that's never been my "thing". My car while having been tracked and is bolt on "modded" has been a dual duty with mostly canyon running. But now alas, it is an old pastured yet still stung mule. Do I even notice the Wavetrac today? Not in the least. I'm not screaming uphills or highway pulling. Just pokin' along and probably why I'm not afraid to try $250.00 new rear tires!

I hope this doesn't renew a debate over one "type over another" re LSD uses, although I can see how it could! It's all been typed before and this is just my take re what I once did, and why.

Originally Posted by 2fcknfst

Not sure if anyone needs anything, but Rock Auto is having a closeout sale on a number of 996 maintenance parts:

Wholesaler Closeout Parts : 2003 PORSCHE 911 3.6L H6 Turbocharged (rockauto.com)

Cheers,

Originally Posted by 2fcknfst

No probs, my pleasure; I bought probably one of the last Bosch alternators in existence from them last season, and somehow I managed to get on their mailing list...

Some of the Tip stuff seemed very reasonable too.

Originally Posted by s65e90

I need rear brakes, bought rear rotors for $10 each lol. Let's see how they are. Durago don't seem terrible. We'll see. Thanks for the link.

Originally Posted by geetee

I would double check the part numbers...they've been wrong with the NA vs turbo parts in that past. The picture looks like NA rear rotor if the picture is correct

Originally Posted by s65e90

I need rear brakes, bought rear rotors for $10 each lol. Let's see how they are. Durago don't seem terrible. We'll see.

Originally Posted by QwikKotaTX

Thank you for all of the info. Wish we had roads here like you are describing. I like getting sideways in previous vehicles but any mistakes and the following repairs were much cheaper than the Turbo. I am not sure if the handling changes as well such as the snap oversteer RWD models can be prone to. In a tight turn I try to stay slightly on the throttle to keep the rear settled and the front tires help pull some. I had an Eaton Truetrac in another vehicle and it worked very well plus no clutches to wear out.