Lazurus

It's been AWD then RWD now back to AWD and I'm actually learning to drive it in snow. As long as it's not accumulated higher than my chin lip. Summer tires in snow is great fun. I may be old, but still living dangerously. My worst ever was putting on a third set of rears in one years as the best driving weather ended but that was when I lived in very mountainous terrain. I

I'm in cattle country with it now so who knows. Perhaps I'll use only one set a year and fronts. could last... who knows. The car is largely out to pasture, as one would do for an aging yet loyal and trustworthy work horse, that has earned its keep. No more farm raised analogies today! But tires on order. Geez, I hope they don't pinch! I won't know for awhile since i'm not at wear bars on the current Rt615's on the rear OR the fronts for that matter. I just watch prices go up it seems like weekly on most everything so I'm going back to buying before I need stuff though Spring always sees new rubber!

QwikKotaTX

If these cars had a factory LSD I would convert to RWD. I'm trying to avoid big buck spending unless necessary. Snow tires and total rears makes sense. Definitely don't have that issue in Houston. Just crazy rain.

I did not do any tire cost research before I bought my car but did not plan on driving it all that much. Interested to see how those Kendas function.

2fcknfst

There is a factory LSD, just rare.

vtec_

According to the old posts I came across, the porting + coating can give you 200-300 RPM give or take in early spool.

Will any carbide bit do? That's what I am not sure about. Found this infographic on amazon.

Lazurus

There are a few options re eliminating the "open" differential situation and some relatively inexpensive as compared to a track setup using a Guard or Motorsport LSD. I never had any need for those and was an early adopter of a Wavetrac gear type TBD and I am sure it's one of the best mods I ever did to run RWD for a mostly then street/canyon driven car. But tbh, the way I drive now and in the flat conditions, RWD and even an LSD is a moot mod. If I removed the Wavetrac today, would I be able to tell I bet not.

I too am hoping my new tire experiment was a wise choice. I just paid $460.00 for two rear tires tax /shipping included and that's an insanely good deal as long as I have not sacrificed much in terms of their performance capability. But given how and where I drive now? I'm confident that it is going to be fine. Plus, someone had to try 'em! So let it be me.

2fcknfst

I wish my new tyre experiment was $460.

Lazurus

! I just checked my receipt! Was only $449.00! Guess I'll take that extra ten bucks and buy a half sandwich!

QwikKotaTX

A double cut burr will go faster. The last time I did what you are doing I used a regular grinding bit. It doesn't grab as much but takes forever. It's a lot of work. My application was a V8.

2fcknfst

Those are the types of bits I would use to clean, deburr, and port. I would follow that up with a flapper wheel for the polish, then coat it.

I'm not sure how you're arriving at 2 - 300 more rpm; engine will still spin the same, just quicker if porting is done right.

vtec_

The post I came across said the turbo should spool 200-300 rpm quicker.

2fcknfst

If you're running the stock exhaust, probably not.

QwikKotaTX

I also didn't know about having to gut the front axles for going RWD. I think I just watched some overly simplified YT video a while back but with the power on tap I am fine with AWD. I drive a little spiritedly at times.

racer959

What is the purpose of a LSD if your not tracking?

T10Chris

You probably wont notice any difference in spool up porting the headers. Certainly not going to hurt anything but don't expect the world. I wouldn't spend a lot of time or money on it.

My datalogs from Fabspeeds to stock unported to Klines with the larger diameter primaries on stock motor and stock K16 and a very free flowing exhaust are all too close to call a difference in rpm when boost peaked. Some differences in the area before full boost...

These pulls started at 2500 rpm in 4th gear and these boost levels were taken ~1 second into the pull as rpm crossed ~3050 rpm
Fabspeed @ 3050 - 0.311 bar - 213 ft lbs
Stock unported @ 3050 - 0.557 bar - 352 ft lbs
Kline @ 3050 - 0.559 bar - 345 ft lbs

In fairness to the Fabspeeds they did blow apart a few weeks after this, so they may be down if there was already a pinhole leak in a weld that I wasn't aware of, no way for me to go back and check that though. But the bigger Klines would no doubt flow more than ported stock and everything is very close at all points.

Bernard IV

I'd probably go with bit #4 for that job and sanding rolls to smooth it out. Not really something I'd pursue unless you have them off anyways but nice to do.