What did you do to your 996TT today?
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Yeah I was fairly certain the MAF was failing, but it doesn't happen every time. So I guess it could be failing intermittently but I just wanted to see if the durametric could tell me what's going on.
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It should be able to monitor voltage - the MAF will have a voltage operating range, so once you know how the MAF is giving as an output, you should be able to define if it is indeed the MAF fairly quickly.
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just unplug the MAF and drive it...if it's 90% right then you know if a MAF or airleak
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LinwoodM (12-17-2021)
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For sure! I think that is the very first negative thing I have ever heard about ARP.
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There are other head studs solutions out there. I’ve had zero issues with studs on either my 3.8 or my 4.0L with several hundred hard track hours under the belt.
Last edited by powdrhound; 12-16-2021 at 01:12 PM.
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what are you running John?
BBi also has nice headstuds, look like the EVOMS units..but starts getting a bit pricey for what they are..
BBi also has nice headstuds, look like the EVOMS units..but starts getting a bit pricey for what they are..
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If building a 1200hp, 2bar plus 1/4 mile motor, the requirement would likely be different but that entail completely different criteria.
Last edited by powdrhound; 12-16-2021 at 01:49 PM.
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yup I've had a gut feeling for last week or so that I'll be going stock studs for this...no desire for 1000+whp, 700-800whp with safety net is lots.
Might wait a bit longer to hear from JB/EVOSpec, might look at BBi..but probably going stock. Funny enough ARP only lists 38ft.lb. total torque on their stud kit...wonder if that's their main issue, should be able to torque into the 50+ ft.lb range with them...might ask them for a technical on it.
Might wait a bit longer to hear from JB/EVOSpec, might look at BBi..but probably going stock. Funny enough ARP only lists 38ft.lb. total torque on their stud kit...wonder if that's their main issue, should be able to torque into the 50+ ft.lb range with them...might ask them for a technical on it.
I know people don’t want to hear this as it goes against the widely believed norm of what one “must” do as part of an engine build, but my engine builder specifically advises against aftermarket head studs. We run OEM. Yes, I know, blasphemy. Trust me, it’s not about money as studs are cheap. After having built literally dozens upon dozens of race motors over the years, I have always gone with my builders advise and can assure you there has never been any issues with heads on any of my engines. It’s about procedures and techniques.
If building a 1200hp, 2bar plus 1/4 mile motor, the requirement would likely be different but that entail completely different criteria.
If building a 1200hp, 2bar plus 1/4 mile motor, the requirement would likely be different but that entail completely different criteria.
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It’s about procedures and techniques.
Just like building a good watch.
Just like building a good watch.
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yup I've had a gut feeling for last week or so that I'll be going stock studs for this...no desire for 1000+whp, 700-800whp with safety net is lots.
Might wait a bit longer to hear from JB/EVOSpec, might look at BBi..but probably going stock. Funny enough ARP only lists 38ft.lb. total torque on their stud kit...wonder if that's their main issue, should be able to torque into the 50+ ft.lb range with them...might ask them for a technical on it.
Might wait a bit longer to hear from JB/EVOSpec, might look at BBi..but probably going stock. Funny enough ARP only lists 38ft.lb. total torque on their stud kit...wonder if that's their main issue, should be able to torque into the 50+ ft.lb range with them...might ask them for a technical on it.
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Yup the 10mm stuff isn't very high, know Raceware is up to 60lb.ft.
Stock procedure is 30 Nm (22 ftlb.), then loosen; 20 Nm (15.0 ftlb.); then retighten all screws again to 20 Nm (15.0 ftlb.) +90° torque angle
Not going too crazy for mine, Gt3/959 IMS, Pauter rods, stock pistons/liners, new lifters, new GT2 oil pump, etc ..strong mid 600s would be great.
Looked at the AutoVerdi oil pumps, very nice but worried about too much scavenging
Stock procedure is 30 Nm (22 ftlb.), then loosen; 20 Nm (15.0 ftlb.); then retighten all screws again to 20 Nm (15.0 ftlb.) +90° torque angle
Not going too crazy for mine, Gt3/959 IMS, Pauter rods, stock pistons/liners, new lifters, new GT2 oil pump, etc ..strong mid 600s would be great.
Looked at the AutoVerdi oil pumps, very nice but worried about too much scavenging
Contrary what one may think, head stud torque is not all that much, somewhere around 30ft.lbs with a specific tightening procedure if I recall. For a 700-800whp application, I would highly recommend an RSR crank and IMS along with the other prerequisites like rods and pistons/liners, etc... Good luck on the build, those are always fun...
Last edited by 993GT; 12-16-2021 at 02:23 PM.
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Yup the 10mm stuff isn't very high, know Raceware is up to 60lb.ft.
Stock procedure is 30 Nm (22 ftlb.), then loosen; 20 Nm (15.0 ftlb.); then retighten all screws again to 20 Nm (15.0 ftlb.) +90° torque angle
Not going too crazy for mine, Gt3/959 IMS, Pauter rods, stock pistons/liners, new lifters, new GT2 oil pump, etc ..strong mid 600s would be great.
Looked at the AutoVerdi oil pumps, very nice but worried about too much scavenging
Stock procedure is 30 Nm (22 ftlb.), then loosen; 20 Nm (15.0 ftlb.); then retighten all screws again to 20 Nm (15.0 ftlb.) +90° torque angle
Not going too crazy for mine, Gt3/959 IMS, Pauter rods, stock pistons/liners, new lifters, new GT2 oil pump, etc ..strong mid 600s would be great.
Looked at the AutoVerdi oil pumps, very nice but worried about too much scavenging