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I have to good fortune of being able to sit at my desk and have two RL windows open all day, 996/991, along with a wide variety of ongoing work which is not nearly as exciting.
The moment John suggessted he was going to offer these turbos, I was on it - I put an order into Borg Warner Canada 20 MONTHS AGO for a set of K24s, nada, zero, zilch from them.
John saved the day, or looking at it from another perspective, inadvertently slingshot me into the serious power realm, and for that, I am very grateful.
Yes, I read, somewhere, that you could get the dipstick in by dropping the engine four or six inches, but my memory betrays me on where I read that...
6 inches doesn’t do the trick. There is a flange you can remove in the oil tank to give better access, but It’s so tight to get to, and I was worried about stripping something.
Yes, that does not sound good, or productive. I'll see if I can figure out where I read this.
You are correct about reading about 6” clearance. You would have to be Houdini to get the guide tube into the tank with the engine in. I will believe it when there is a YouTube video available.
God no, I'd likely do more damage than good. I may be tempted after I watch it come in and out a few more times - so far, I have only watched the procedure once.
God no, I'd likely do more damage than good. I may be tempted after I watch it come in and out a few more times - so far, I have only watched the procedure once.
I have a lift and the tools, but I think I am too old to pull it off by myself. I have dropped many 911 engines in my time, but they were air cooled and less complicated.
I need to find a young mechanic to help me in-house, pay him/her $50/hour to do the heavy lifting. Once the engine is removed, I have no doubt that I could do the rest of the work.
Yes, it is an X50. Not only will Sam need to revise the tune, I will add some 1300cc injectors, new lines and new reservoirs - plus whatever other supporting bits and pieces required.
Nathan was saying I may had to do some work on the hot sides of the cats in order to avoid compressor surge, but I am not that far along yet.
I have been trying to source a manual dipstick setup and get Porsche parts and Pelican are unable to find key components, so until I get that, they will not go on the car because I do not want to continually be taking the engine out of the car. I also gather the oil rezs are a special order part, so we shall see,
You don't need new oil reservoirs Andrew. The OEM reservoirs are a direct bolt on. You will want to install new O-rings when fitting them. The IDC1300 injectors are the way to go. That's what we are using. You will want to upgrade the fuel pump to the Walbro 450 at the least. Anything bigger may require a fuel pump controller. I would run a -8AN fuel line from the tank to the fuel rail. You will want the exhaust pipe (cat pipe) to be at least 89mm ID in order not to choke off the outer hot side ring on the turbos. The turbocharger WG dumps pressure to the outer ring so you don't want to block that off. If you look at the turbocharger hot side exhaust, it will make sense. Your wastegates are set up with the green 6.27psi spring. The WG are adjusted with light preloadt set to crack at 7.5psi and should be fully open by 14psi. WG travel is 13mm if I recall. This give you a nice smooth hp/tq curve with 1.3bar achieved at approximately 85% N75 duty cycle. Throttle modulation should be excellent instead of a light switch as is the case with much stiffer WG springs. You and Sam may need to tweak this a little bit for a 3.6 but that is how I had it set up on a 4.0L. If you wanted to run higher boost than 1.3bar, a stiffer WG spring would be required which you can get from Tial. Spring packs are available in 1.5psi increments. We found no need for higher boost as we got 780whp at 1.3bar on 91 octane.
Last edited by powdrhound; 09-14-2021 at 10:27 PM.
thank god i didn't know these were for sale... can you run a stock block on these?
what did you replace them with?
These turbos are perfect for running on a stock block as they have a very nice and progressive hp/tq curve which reduces the stress on the bottom end of the engine.
I have the larger Xona XR1000 turbos installed in place of the XR980. The XR1000 is a 3076. The compressor wheel is the same but the turbine wheel is 6mm larger on the XR1000 which will be beneficial on the 4.0L engine in freeing up back pressure and lowering turbine drive pressure. The XR1000 should free up another 50whp according to Tial putting us at 830whp or so at 1.3 bar on 91. With the 12% larger displacement of the 4.0, the larger turbine will be a better match.
@2fcknfst, John has you well on your way to achieving Turbo Nirvana! Congrat's!
In my garage, did a full suspension setting baseline, sway bar adjustment, and boost leak check on #Turbo3 yesterday. Suspension settings where a bit whack, but fortunately nothing more than a few loose clamps on the boost plumbing. Going to keep this one quite a bit tamer than #Turbo1.
These turbos are perfect for running on a stock block as they have a very nice and progressive hp/tq curve which reduces the stress on the bottom end of the engine.
I have the larger Xona XR1000 turbos installed in place of the XR980. The XR1000 is a 3076. The compressor wheel is the same but the turbine wheel is 6mm larger on the XR1000 which will be beneficial on the 4.0L engine in freeing up back pressure and lowering turbine drive pressure. The XR1000 should free up another 50whp according to Tial putting us at 830whp or so at 1.3 bar on 91. With the 12% larger displacement of the 4.0, the larger turbine will be a better match.
at what point do rods become an issue? or is it all in the tuning to limit tq down low..
You don't need new oil reservoirs Andrew. The OEM reservoirs are a direct bolt on. You will want to install new O-rings when fitting them.
There is a mistake in the PET for the turbo reservoir O-ring. If you order the part that's specified in PET you will get a crush washer. You actually want a 999-701-598-40 O-ring.
You don't need new oil reservoirs Andrew. The OEM reservoirs are a direct bolt on. You will want to install new O-rings when fitting them. The IDC1300 injectors are the way to go. That's what we are using. You will want to upgrade the fuel pump to the Walbro 450 at the least. Anything bigger may require a fuel pump controller. I would run a -8AN fuel line from the tank to the fuel rail. You will want the exhaust pipe (cat pipe) to be at least 89mm ID in order not to choke off the outer hot side ring on the turbos. The turbocharger WG dumps pressure to the outer ring so you don't want to block that off. If you look at the turbocharger hot side exhaust, it will make sense. Your wastegates are set up with the green 6.27psi spring. The WG are adjusted with light preloadt set to crack at 7.5psi and should be fully open by 14psi. WG travel is 13mm if I recall. This give you a nice smooth hp/tq curve with 1.3bar achieved at approximately 85% N75 duty cycle. Throttle modulation should be excellent instead of a light switch as is the case with much stiffer WG springs. You and Sam may need to tweak this a little bit for a 3.6 but that is how I had it set up on a 4.0L. If you wanted to run higher boost than 1.3bar, a stiffer WG spring would be required which you can get from Tial. Spring packs are available in 1.5psi increments. We found no need for higher boost as we got 780whp at 1.3bar on 91 octane.
I was going to do the rezs so that I had two complete sets, one for each pair of turbos - oil lines and ancillaries to support the upgrade just seems like a good, preventative maintenance step (along with the o rings) as they have been on the car for 18 years. Those IDC 1300 injectors, if I am not mistaken, are 1300cc units. I have the Radium/Walboro fuel pump, along with the Bosch MS 5.0 bar FPR - I think I have enough fuel (with injectors of course), however, I do like the idea of running a slightly larger fuel line to support demand.
As you can see from the pic below, I was planning on running John's (Speedtech) 50 cell cats, however, the mating flange is only 75mm ID, and, it looks like the way he built the cats was to sleeve the flange then weld the flange to the sleeve. I'll need to make up another set in order to get to 89mm as it may be very tight to Dremel off the lip and machine the flange in order to reach almost another 1/2", so that may not be the most reliable approach. I am not sure if John made your 3.5" test pipes, but I will ask you for direction on where to go to get these/this done. Compressor surge does not appeal to me.
To further reliability, I am not planning on running higher than .8/9 bar - the same pressure as a stock X50, but with considerably more flow. To my way of thinking, this is ideal as I recall you were seeing 580WHP at this pressure, which would loosely translate into 650 FWHP - a little more than target, but I can live with that as I am not over pressurizing the intake plumbing. Your numbers at 1.3 bar are very desirable to me, but not until I do something with rods and pistons, at the very least. I am very keen on smooth, linear power delivery, so the logic behind the WG setup makes a whole lot of sense to me. On my STI, I am running a Tial external WG with a 1.0 bar WG spring, and an HKS step motor boost controller that ramps up the boost to 1.5 bar; it does hit very hard - and perhaps, not the smoothest, but entertaining. I think the turbo should be a little more refined, so I will leave it as you have configured it.
I can also tell that a considerable amount of effort has gone into setting these up for your car, and as such, I have decided that I will not coat them as this will require them to be taken apart and reassembled, and I am not skilled enough to put them back together in the same manner.
Still, very exciting, and cannot wait to run them!
09-14-2021, 05:33 PM
