#$@! Blew my engine today #&*#@!
12-12-2014, 10:05 PM
#376
Nordschleife Master
I've thought about that lingpoen. Certainly a possibility, but I'd like to get my car brought back to life if possible.
Still, seems like a fantastic deal for someone. Of course, this is assuming we can believe the ad. But, there are TONS of filthy rich folks in Newport Beach, so it may just be a guy looking to quickly get rid of his car.
Regarding the LS swap... I haven't heard back yet from Renegade. I'll call them later today and see if the swap can be done for a Tip.
Regarding price: Their 996 kit is $3,900. I've been able to find a brand new crate LS-3 for $6,200. Then, there are all the ancillary parts needed, plus labor. A guy on RL PM'd me and says he can help with any questions, so I'm assuming he has done it.
I'm still in the early info. gathering stage....
.
Still, seems like a fantastic deal for someone. Of course, this is assuming we can believe the ad. But, there are TONS of filthy rich folks in Newport Beach, so it may just be a guy looking to quickly get rid of his car.
Regarding the LS swap... I haven't heard back yet from Renegade. I'll call them later today and see if the swap can be done for a Tip.
Regarding price: Their 996 kit is $3,900. I've been able to find a brand new crate LS-3 for $6,200. Then, there are all the ancillary parts needed, plus labor. A guy on RL PM'd me and says he can help with any questions, so I'm assuming he has done it.
I'm still in the early info. gathering stage....
.
I think a 996 LS conversion has to be a labor of love... It will consume far more time and cash than you originally plan on, and there will always be 'one more thing' to do with it.
Makes sense to do if it's your dream to have an LS1 engine in a Porsche, not as a less expensive or easier way to deal with a failed engine. IMHO of course...
Makes sense to do if it's your dream to have an LS1 engine in a Porsche, not as a less expensive or easier way to deal with a failed engine. IMHO of course...
12-15-2014, 04:39 AM
#379
Race Director
Thread Starter
Seller is still trying to get access to his car, mechanic shop owner is still in poor shape in hospital. Daughter is trying to get access. And odd circumstance, for sure.
Well, playing with my 914s in the meantime.
Well, playing with my 914s in the meantime.
12-15-2014, 01:47 PM
#382
I know I'm late to the party (and I only own a hair dresser convertible, so I don't know everything) but I felt compelled to speak up regarding rod bolts.
In a M96 tear down just about the last pieces in your hands are rod bolts, so having them swapped out in your newer engine would be a ton of work. In an american V8 you can drop the pan and reach them all but not on this thing.
Also, I saw mention in this thread that the ARP bolts cost the same (or about the same) as the stock bolts. Not by a long shot. I purchased a full set of OEM bolts from Pelican for my project and they were $60. LN sells the set of ARP rod bolts for $250. That may be "about the same" for you well off guys but for us mere mortals it's a hit.
That said, I did purchase the ARP bolts and am in the process of returning my OEM to Pelican for credit. Going cheap in this case is going stupid.
Good luck with your car, and yes those 914s are some great examples of the type.
In a M96 tear down just about the last pieces in your hands are rod bolts, so having them swapped out in your newer engine would be a ton of work. In an american V8 you can drop the pan and reach them all but not on this thing.
Also, I saw mention in this thread that the ARP bolts cost the same (or about the same) as the stock bolts. Not by a long shot. I purchased a full set of OEM bolts from Pelican for my project and they were $60. LN sells the set of ARP rod bolts for $250. That may be "about the same" for you well off guys but for us mere mortals it's a hit.
That said, I did purchase the ARP bolts and am in the process of returning my OEM to Pelican for credit. Going cheap in this case is going stupid.
Good luck with your car, and yes those 914s are some great examples of the type.
12-15-2014, 04:52 PM
#384
Rennlist Member
12-15-2014, 05:24 PM
#385
Is LN the only distributor for the APR rod bolts?
Another thought is that LN had ARP make them special for the 996, hence the high price
12-15-2014, 05:34 PM
#386
Race Director
Thread Starter
12/15/2014 Update:
The guy said he should be getting his car home this evening, and I'm trying to coordinate with Sandersd to take a look.
Here's what the mechanic says regarding the "ticking" in the video clip:
“In the ticking I'd let it idle for 10-min till warm, then run up to 3500-4000 RPM bringing it back down to idle on occasion until its fixed. Should just be a few minutes to fix. It's usually just a hydraulic lifter that's not staying up as it should.”
I'm wondering, does he mean the chain tensioner? That's the symptom I would expect.... tic, tic, tic on start-up that goes away.
The guy said he should be getting his car home this evening, and I'm trying to coordinate with Sandersd to take a look.
Here's what the mechanic says regarding the "ticking" in the video clip:
“In the ticking I'd let it idle for 10-min till warm, then run up to 3500-4000 RPM bringing it back down to idle on occasion until its fixed. Should just be a few minutes to fix. It's usually just a hydraulic lifter that's not staying up as it should.”
I'm wondering, does he mean the chain tensioner? That's the symptom I would expect.... tic, tic, tic on start-up that goes away.
12-15-2014, 06:22 PM
#387
Rennlist Member
Most likely cause: Lifters leaking down from long time sitting without starting engine. Oil getting old too.
12-15-2014, 06:34 PM
#389
Instructor
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Mine ticks on idle, with revs up to 2000, and from what I've gleaned from posting on here, talking to people from local PCA, and the mechanic at the dealership who did my PPI, it's most likely a lifter ticking, and not getting fully pumped up. Comes from the passenger side, towards front of engine bay near the headers.
It's very inconsistent as to when it's ticking. However after a good spirited run getting the engine temps up a little higher, it's usually quieter or nonexistent at idle. Also always goes away around the 2000 rpm mark no matter what temp the engine is at.
PO was using way to high viscosity for the engine. So far with the proper oil and BG MOA it does it less and less, hopefully with the next oil changes it'll get even quieter. From what the mechanic tells me it won't go back to being healthy overnight, it may never. But not worth losing sleep over, and not worth replacing the lifters until I'm already in there. It's annoying sometimes but I can't hear it unless I have all air and radio off.
Hope that information helps, I found mine to be a good buy and I expect many more miles out of my engine.
It's very inconsistent as to when it's ticking. However after a good spirited run getting the engine temps up a little higher, it's usually quieter or nonexistent at idle. Also always goes away around the 2000 rpm mark no matter what temp the engine is at.
PO was using way to high viscosity for the engine. So far with the proper oil and BG MOA it does it less and less, hopefully with the next oil changes it'll get even quieter. From what the mechanic tells me it won't go back to being healthy overnight, it may never. But not worth losing sleep over, and not worth replacing the lifters until I'm already in there. It's annoying sometimes but I can't hear it unless I have all air and radio off.
Hope that information helps, I found mine to be a good buy and I expect many more miles out of my engine.
12-15-2014, 07:50 PM
#390
Race Director
Thread Starter
Thanks for the additional info, guys. I never had any ticking from my car.
[Except that one time when there was a ticking coming from a plain brown-wrapped box in the back seat. No, wait, that was in a movie, not my car.]
[Except that one time when there was a ticking coming from a plain brown-wrapped box in the back seat. No, wait, that was in a movie, not my car.]