islaTurbine

This thing is continuing to eat my lunch. I can’t seem to get enough clearance for the custom bracket and the changeover valve. They hit my idle air control valve on the throttle no matter what orientation that I try.

Thoughts?

EDIT: Never mind. I somehow overlooked @Kris Murphy 's excellent pics of a 1999 install on post #42 of this thread. I'm a dummy.

Thanks Kris!

islaTurbine

I’m on a roll so I’ll post about an additional problem. This upper flex/hardline from the top of the UAOS is completely straight until it joins the flex portion. This appears to be different from the 996.2’s which have a slight bend towards the center of the engine.

Because mine is straight, I don’t see how it will properly reach the brake booster. Am I supposed somehow remove it from both the forward and rearward plastic mounts so that it can move more freely?

islaTurbine

Skip and I got it squared away. I had to release the brake booster flex/hardline from the upper plastic retaining mount closest to the firewall. I left the line attached to the mount located closest to the rear of the car. This gave me about 2 more inches in length, which was just barely enough. I do wish I had another 2 or so inches, though.

As has been posted before, everything is quite tight when doing the work on a 1999. Despite that, I did the whole job without removing either intake manifold. I did remove the alternator in order to facilitate replacing the oil fill tube and I'm not sure I could have completed the UAOS install without doing that task.

islaTurbine

996.1 Aerokit folks with the UAOS:

Do any of you have a problem with the air box snorkel being pushed rearward (towards the rear of the car) by the UAOS’s drain, which then makes the snorkel misalign with the taco wings hard plastic air guide/bellows? I never had any prior fitment issues, but now the air box snorkel won’t allow the taco lid to close without contacting and knocking off the guide/bellows.

Before, During, After pics:

Porschetech3

I have heard of a few with this issue....it seems that the engine/transmission is too far to the rear...

Loosen the 6 trans mount bolts and the two engine mounting bolts and slide the engine/trans to the front as far as the slots will allow...

The ones that have had this issue they either were all the way to the back of the slots, or the snorkel was a bit warped from heat...

islaTurbine

I did finally get the lid to close properly. As Skip suggested, I lifted the car and observed that the engine and trans were already nearly at the most forward position, but I did get another 1/4” of movement forward. I did this by loosening the four trans carrier bolts, plus the tran’s two top mount bolts up in the tunnel, plus the two engine engine mount bolts. I then fastened a ratchet strap as shown in the pics and gingerly put tension on it until my mechanical gut instinct said No More. I was VERY careful and precise as to how I positioned the straps as I didn’t want to out any undue stress on anything. I then tightened everything up.






Unfortunately this still didn’t offer quite enough room in between the UAOS sump and the intake snorkel. What did the final trick was moving the changeover valve bracket to be mounted on top of the UAOS sump’s bracket. Now you may ask why I didn’t do this before, and it was simply because the UAOS sump bracket isn’t quite wide enough to clear the moldings on the plastic brake booster nozzle that is sandwiched to the intake. This is because of a plastic horizontal line on each side that’s molded into the nozzle’s flange. But the changeover valve’s laser-cut bracket IS wide enough to clear it, so therefore I had installed it to be between the UAOS sump bracket and the plastic nozzle.

In order to change the order of it all, I had to shave some of the horizontal plastic off of the nozzle so that it would then fit inside the curved portion of the sump bracket. Here are some pics of the measurements before modification.

Brake booster plastic nozzle horizontal molding width


Changeover valve bracket width


UAOS sump bracket width



I assume all of this only applies to 1999 throttle cable cars, and even then YMMV.

Porschetech3

That particular issue only arises on the very early 99 models (built in 98)....

All the 99's built in 99 and later cars use this brake booster adaptor that clears everything.... Some early car owners have switched to the newer adaptor and also the booster hose for a perfect fit..


brake booster adaptor for cars built in 99 and onward..

Most just take a Dremel or Razor knife and trim the plastic tabs down

islaTurbine

Yup, mine was built in 9/98 so that fits the description. A quick trim with a razor blade is all it took.

GC996

My indy trimmed the plastic tabs.

Porschetech3

Yes, Professionals instinctively know what to do when these little things arise....( same as any profession) ..

GC996

Yeah, a good indy is worth their weight in gold.

islaTurbine

Ahem….I don’t like to trim/modify unless absolutely forced to. It’s only original once. Lord knows I spent a lot of time undoing “trimming” that had been done on my ‘78 928.

Porschetech3

I hear ya...

But Posche does a lot of trimming before you ever get the car...( but not as much as they used to)

Outatimemk

I sincerely apologize if this has been asked and answered, but I couldn’t find details of this issue I’m running into.

I bought the track drain version, which includes the oil filler neck with a modification for the drain line. Upon installing the neck, the drain line is kinked against 2 hard pipes (stacked vertically). Will that adversely affect draining? Should I try to route these underneath the hard pipes and up near the throttle body? See pic with the kink circled.

Porschetech3

Hi ​​​@Outatimemk , route the drain back line as shown in these pics...






No, you cannot have that kink in the line......